I have just started into the adventure of rod building and can already tell it might become addicting.
I am in the process of my first build of a light plastics and jig rod on a rain shadow Rx10 ETEC72M-SS and am wanting to build a cranking rod.
Trying to understand the rating numbers for different blanks, been reading about the ccs but don't really have a handle on it.
So I thought I would ask, I want a rod for maybe a square bill to a Dt 10/14, here are the ones I have been looking at. thanks for any help



IMMP70MH-TC 7'0" 8-17 1/4-3/4 1 .480 5.0 MF 1.7 MH

JDGCB70MH-CG 7' 12-20 3/8-1 1 0.665 6.5 M-Fast 2.6oz MH

X10-Composite - B 7'0" 8-20 1/4-1 1 0.545 5.5 Moderate 1.8oz

X11-Composite - B 7'0" 10-25 1/2-3 1 0.561 5.5 Moderate 2.1oz

If you stick with Rainshadow RX 10's and Point Blanks you can use CCS to aid you is selecting appropriate blanks.

With other brands and blank lines the subjective descriptions are often not consistent. The most consistent specs without having CCS are the lure weight recommendations, in my opinion. Get a blank whose recommendations best match the weight of the lures you are most interested in casting. Using this logic would lead me to the first and third on your list.

I have a Point Blank 731MXF that throws all the DT's from 4 through 14's very well. Before anyone argues that XF action is not appropriate for a crank rod I point out that the longer the rod the more forgiving it is with regard to "keeping fish pinned." It has a CCS ERN of 25.1. I have no trouble keeping fish pinned on this 7 foot 3 in rod.

I have been reading on the ccs and haven't gotten an understanding of what these numbers mean to a blank. thanks for your advice

Mike, it's pretty easy to understand in a relative way. If you have a blank with 25 ERN and 75 AA, a blank of ERN 30 and AA 80 will be significantly more powerful and have a faster action. The more you know the numbers on your blanks, the more confident you will be in choosing the next one.

Mike, here is another suggestion for you. I am not real knowelagble on CCS numbers either but I can tell you from many years of experience that I know what works. Most of my clients are bass tournament fisherman and for them having a big bass come unpinned is costly . For that reason I have built and recommend the Rod Geeks/ St Croix SG70MHM rod blank. This blank is rated for 8 to 20 pound line and will easily handle square bills and a DT14. This is a S glass blend, it is light weight and very powerful .
There are over 30 guys out there using my Geeks crank bait rod and many have more than one of them. Over the years I have gotten calls telling me how happy they were with it and have never had a bass come off. ( I trust that is the truth?) Another application that we use for this blank is for Chatterbaits. It is extremely effective with that bait and if you have planes for one of those in your arsenal it would be a great choice of blanks.

Tom

tomscustomrods.com

Mike, listen to Tom..

This is one of my favorite crankbait rods. Graphite blends

MHX CB843 7' 1-piece
Line: 8-14
Lure: 3/16 - 5/8
Action: MF
Power: M
Tip: 5.5
Butt: .485"
Weight: 1.7 oz

My other favorite is a obsolete glass rod from South Bend

Where can I find a list of recommended rod blanks to build into rods for various fishing methods such as: worming rods, chatter-bait rods, popping rods, jigging rods, live-bait rods, and other specific-use rods?

I'd use the Batson Judge cranbait rod, the most durable by far, soft where they need to be because of the linear S Glass, lifting power where you need it because of the over wrap of graphite. I have no idea what an X10, or 11 is, must be another brand like Phenix, or something, if so, I'm not a fan of paying US built pricing for Chinese products so have used very few of them.

Where can I find a list of recommended rod blanks to build into rods for various fishing methods such as: worming rods, chatter-bait rods, popping rods, jigging rods, live-bait rods, and other specific-use rods?

Almost all the brands list techniques for their blanks. Look.

Thanks for the suggestions, everyone, I will certainly take a look at them

Mudhole

I purchased some no-label rod blanks at a lawn sale and I would like to build them into rods and sell them, but I have no idea what kind of blanks they are. I can get a better price if I label them as species-specific rods, but I have no idea what actions and which components go with which species. Can anyone suggest a text or article which suggests which types of rod blanks and/or components go best with which species of fish?

Phil Ewanicki Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I purchased some no-label rod blanks at a lawn
> sale and I would like to build them into rods and
> sell them, but I have no idea what kind of blanks
> they are. I can get a better price if I label them
> as species-specific rods, but I have no idea what
> actions and which components go with which
> species. Can anyone suggest a text or article
> which suggests which types of rod blanks and/or
> components go best with which species of fish?

Experience>Articles

Also please note only techniques are mentioned in this thread.
If you know what you are doing you can build them for a specific use and sell them as such. If you don't know how to do that than do some research, preferably hands on.

I'm with Tom.. The Rodgeeks hybrid S glass blank in MHM is a great CB blank

Mike Colley Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I have been reading on the ccs and haven't gotten
> an understanding of what these numbers mean to a
> blank. thanks for your advice


The higher the ERN the higher the power. The higher the AA the Faster the Action.

If you want to correlate the numbers to something you have now for reference, measure your current rod and compare the numbers.

..........

How does a thrifty rod-builder go about determining the ERN and the AA of a blank with no markings - without having to buy te$t equipment?

Piece of cake, Phil. I cobbled my setup out of scrap I had around the shop. While a big sheet of pegboard is ideal, it can be done without it to save space and expense. The only te$t equipment I bought was an electronic level for checking AA. About $20 if I remember right. But then I found a free app for my already paid for cell phone that works just as well. So if you have a cell phone, some general shop skills, you can make a setup for almost nothing.

Then you can have the numbers that, believe it or not, do quite nicely predict dynamic performance. And if you want to go further and check the True Natural Frequency of your blanks/rods, then a free app on an Android device will let that happen. With stuff I'm sure you already have.

But I understand that it's much more rewarding to simply complain and ask questions. Heard a neat line on a movie last night: "You are a lot better at asking questions than you are at answering them." George Kennedy to Jeff Bridges.

It,s only a matter of common cents Phil..lol.

I purchased some no-label rod blanks at a lawn
> sale and I would like to build them into rods and
> sell them, but I have no idea what kind of blanks
> they are. I can get a better price if I label them
> as species-specific rods, but I have no idea what
> actions and which components go with which
> species. Can anyone suggest a text or article
> which suggests which types of rod blanks and/or
> components go best with which species of fish?

Hard to believe after all this discussion of CCS that this guy cannot, or will not, figure it out.

If the rods have no labels on them there are no articles or text that can help. That is not so hard to figure out.

Think of it this way, Phil. I've got a bunch of books. Their covers have been damaged so that the titles are no longer discernible. Can anyone suggest a text or article which suggests which books might be of interest to me?

Geez!