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Disastrous Blotches--What Next?
Posted by: Andrew White (165.29.23.---)
Date: December 03, 2001 10:18AM

I finished my first fairly elaborate weave the other night, . . .and it turned out really good (for a novice anyway). I then used CP on it, put in my trim bands, CPed those, then, thinking I was home-free, put a coat of finish on the wraps.

As the finish was applied to the weave area, blotches appeared on the white NCP winding thread, some very small, but some quite large. After weeping and gnashing of teeth, I tried to figure out a way to salvage the weave. (If I was selling the rod, I would obviously just tear the whole thing off, then re-do. However, since it's a gift, and the weave turned out pretty good, I'm considering trying to save it somehow.)

Most of the blotching is on the border of the White NCP and my trim color. Then, there is approx. 1/8" to 1/4" of un-blotched NCP white until the actual woven area(s). Luckily, the actual woven area(s) have no blotching.

Here are my possible solutions, as I see them. Please let me know how feasible they are, and add any other ideas you have.

1.) Put a second layer of thread on top of the first, covering over the blotched area, right up to the edge of the weave. Cover with CP, then re-epoxy over the area. The weave area will be slightly recessed, but with a decent coat of finish, the recess won't be terribly noticeable.

2.) Cut off the entire butt wrap, except for the weave area (approx. 3/4" long). Then, wrap a bit of NCP white on either side, then the trim on either side of that, CP everything, then put on finish again.

3.) Paint the blotched white areas with some sort of white paint that won't react with LS Supreme, then re-cover with finish.

Thanks for all your help.

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Re: Disastrous Blotches--What Next?
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (---.dialinx.net)
Date: December 03, 2001 10:53AM

I'd go for one of the first two, maybe trying #1 one first. If well done it will like it was planned.

I wish I knew what was causing those blotches for you. I just finished a 50lb trolling rod and used NCP white thread for all the wraps (white blank too) and also used CP, one coat. There are no blotches or discolorations of any kind, anywhere. I used Gudebrod 811, unthinned and while I saturated the threads I did not, and never do, remove any "excess". I have yet to find any excess that needs removing.

I sometimes wonder if the solids in CP may settle out of solution and without a good stirring (shaking usually introduces bubbles) you may not get enough solids in the threads to properly seal them. But to be honest, I don't stir mine. I just turn the bottle upside down for a minute or so before I squirt out into a plastic cup what I think I will need.

..............................

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Re: Disastrous Blotches--What Next?
Posted by: Jim Upton (---.elnk.dsl.gtei.net)
Date: December 03, 2001 01:02PM

Andrew; How long did you wait between the CP application and the Flex coat? It's possible that the thread was still damp underneath the surface. I let mine dry at least over night and sometimes longer. Had that same problem years ago and was told that it was due to a batch of CP that was left out on a loading dock and frozen. Either one could cause you a problem that was so long ago I don't remember if tried to coat the rod as soon as the CP was dry or not. Good luck. I would do as Tom suggested....Jim

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Re: Disastrous Blotches--What Next?
Posted by: Andrew White (165.29.23.---)
Date: December 03, 2001 01:40PM

It's possible that the CP was still wet, but it had been over 24 hrs. since I put the CP on the weave.

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Re: Disastrous Blotches--What Next?
Posted by: Lincoln Parmer (---.atw.pa.webcache.rcn.net)
Date: December 03, 2001 02:37PM

Dear Andrew: Time is not the issue. Evaporation and "cure" may be your problem. I suggest you take brush and dip in alcohol to test cp fidelity. If it blushes or spots, your cp is the culprit. Keep it from freezing, and keep it fresh. CP a year old is questionable. Its not worth the aggravation yur going thru. Course its a little late in the game at this point. Try a fresh batch of CP over the old. Maximum penetration is your goal. Wait. Avoid the rush. Allow it to come to a complete cure. I put mine in a lighted box till I am ready to finish. I also clean out the box periodically for dust and lint. Good Luck

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Re: Disastrous Blotches--What Next?
Posted by: Don Greife (63.124.164.---)
Date: December 03, 2001 08:21PM

Lincoln,, Here we go again on this "unresolvable" problem. Tom K. says the problem of blotching is 'in the application'. I'm not smart enough to disagree with him,,but certainly have had my share of blotches. If, as Tom says, it is in the application, perhaps a few words of 'instructions' taped to the bottle by the mfr. is in order. Huh?
Don

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Re: Disastrous Blotches--What Next?
Posted by: William (---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: December 03, 2001 09:21PM

I've never had any problems with color preserver leaving blotches since I stopped thinning the stuff. For along time there seemed to be some unwritten rule that you were supposed to thin any CP by 50% and apply 2 coats that way and then one full strength. Looking back I don't remember ever seeing any such instructions on the bottles. So after the article I stopped thinning it and on the last dozen or so rods I have not had any problems.

I also wonder if you might have gotten something on the threads from your hands or another source that would have prevented penetration or adhesion of the CP and or finish. Just guessing.

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Re: Disastrous Blotches--What Next?
Posted by: Mike Bolt (---.50.54.92.mhub.grid.net)
Date: December 03, 2001 10:44PM

Possible culprits:

Dirty blank - did you clean the blank with alcohol before starting the wrap?

Dirty fingers - did you clean the tips of your fingers with alcohol before touching the thread?

What brand CP did you use?

As previously mentioned - old CP, thinned CP, unevenly applied CP

I may be backwards but I still use Flexcoat when I have to use CP. I cut it 25% water and 75% CP roughly. 2 -3 coats depending on the wrap.

By all means try number 1 on your list first. I have done the same thing and it does work.

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