John / Roger

I guess, for me, it's just that the rod gives instantly reversible tension so it's a no brainer that you can back up and not have to manage the tension with your off hand. When I hand wrap I can correct an overwrap instantly. Same when I put the pull through in the wrong direction and have to back up (this happens more often than it should). I feel like an inadvertent roll back puts the integrity of the previous wraps in question? This is all pretty new to me so temper anything I say with that fact haha. To each his own but I tried a few guides without it and really really missed it. The way I have it positioned the only time it's in the way is when sliding the carriage along the track to get past a support, but even bending the rod down and moving the carriage over the other side of the rod support takes just a second and still many times quicker and easier than some of the other wrapper designs out there. I haven't tried silk yet and am kinda afraid to mess with it because it seems like it's somewhat more fragile and fussy? I suspect the rod may represent too many redirects of the thread and give me trouble? The rod may make my introduction to silk tougher because I'm going to have to use the machine without the rod in that context I think. But I do really like the rod and as soon as I installed it and did a wrap I immediately felt more at home. When doing fades I've gotten into a weird habit of running three wraps past the count while packing and then backing up to my count. Dunno why I started doing this but the rod makes my pointless technique easier haha. If I should decide not to use the rod it just slips out of the hole. It's actually the rod from my CRB hand wrapper from MH.

Full disclosure: I'm thinking of cutting the left side of the steady rest (just the hdpe rod, not the whole slide) down by 1/3 to give a clear space for the epoxy tray to sit on the left end area of the slide. I like the epoxy tray on the slide and find I have to reach around the left side of the steady rest to get to the epoxy, also, I use a spatula so need to get lower and more parallel to the bench than a brush to scoop up the epoxy? I've been thinking of doing it for some time and haven't so far so it may never actually happen.

Again though, the machine is just such a pleasure to use. This is my impression every time I sit down to use it.

This winter I think the 4 rod wrapper will be a thing. They are not cheap and I think I'd do the 4 foot extension and two more rests so even more coin. Shipping to up here can be killer so that's icing on the cake haha. I'm pretty sure I've measured the space and it fits above the stuff on the wall over the bench and so far I've resisted the urge to use the space for anything else.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/18/2022 06:05PM by Bob Foster.

Bob,
At the end of your post you mention a 4-rod wrapper.

What are you actually thinking about. It is virtually impossible to WRAP 4-rods at a time.

It is not a problem to DRY 4 rods at a time, but not wrap 4-rods at a time.

For example, here is a 4-rod set of dryers:
[www.rodbuilding.org]

Another example of multiple single rod dryers drying rods.
[www.rodbuilding.org]

If you are handy and have tools and knowledge, it is pretty easy to create some of these dryers. For example in the last picture of the multiple dryers, I think that my total expense was something like $30 for everything that is illustrated in the picture - as it deals with drying rods.

If I come up with a thought or an idea, I like to follow through on it and see how the idea will fall out as it is being designed, constructed and used.

Best wishes and good luck

Ugh.....dryer....I meant dryer haha. I have my hands full wrapping one rod at a time thanks!

Thanks for the examples. I've read and looked about a bit re what to do about dryers. Last year I couldn't see the point of having more than one dryer and this year it's apparent I need more than one dryer. It's all about time vs money vs ability and these days there is little time so I'll be buying what I need, hopefully this winter or fall or the next time I feel the need to elevate my mood with an impulse buy lol...that could be tomorrow. Also I like the look of the flex coat setup. I've seen a few multi rod dryers in cabinets over the bench and I think it looks like a good way to go. Back Creek Customs has a good shot of such a one.

Thanks for keeping me honest,

Hey, that is why they call it custom rod building. To each their own. I am just pleased that you have the DC777 and are enjoying it. Keep doing what you are doing. You have a lot of "want to" and that is what it takes. Again, great looking shop.

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

If you can, try to get a piece of stainless steel plate 1/8 thick and approx 16 X 24 to set on your work bench..

Parts and pieces can lay flat and easily be aligned.

You can tap or lightly hammer parts without damaging the work bench top.

Great for soldering components, solder can drip but not stick.

Epoxy, paint or other solvents clean up easily.

If not needed can be stored on side of work bench.

It will protect your work bench from careless activity or accidents.

Have fun

In addition to John's comment.

I use a piece of 1/8th inch tempered hardboard to do exactly what he suggests.

The hardboard does a nice job of protecting the bench but is easily cut to size, and inexpensive to replace if ever necessary.

For example:

[www.menards.com]

I use hardboard like shown above to place on top of all of my work benches in the garage.

I just use a nail gun to secure the hardboard to the bench top. When, it gets too beat up or grease stained, or paint stained, I remove the nail and cut a new panel to size and I have a new bench top.