Hoping someone can give me a little guidance here. I want to test a blank for defects before I start a build. I have made the mistake of not doing this previously and had a mid section break on the 2nd or 3rd cast from a defect in the blank.

Everything I can find about static tests does them with the guides on the blank with tape/rubber bands. Is there anyway to just test a 4 piece fly rod blank without going through this trouble? Just want to load the rod to make sure it doesn't break. Is it as simple of just flexing each section as much I can manually?

-Marc

Make sure you know how to properly assemble the rod, assemble it, put a tiptop onto it, tie a string/line to the tiptop, then flex it to about 1/3 or a little more of its length, keeping the bend no more than about 90 degrees. Do this a number of times at deifferent rotational orientations. I think that should work without overstressing a good blank.

Properly wrapped guides will not fail a good blank and I don't think you need to use them to find defects in a bad one. I've never had a rod fail at a guide wrap.

Fly experts, is this about right?

Marc,
Pretty simple.

Put the rod together correctly.

Place either the tip against the ceiling or against the floor and rare back so that you have a uniform bend up to about a 90 degree bend. As the rod bends, move the point of contact away from the tip further down the rod to simulate the situation when catching fish.

This is a 10 second test that is a good idea to do on any rod blank that you plan to build on.

No point in putting work into a rod blank that is defective as received.

Most reputable manufacturers test every blank before they ship the blank.

But, as is always the case - "Stuff happens". i.e. a shipment can get caught in a conveyor and get fatally bent to the point of blank damage - etc. etc. etc.

Best wishes.

Marc,
There is an in depth article in the library near the bottom about this, it makes no difference what kind of blank you are building and how many pieces are involved either.
I would wrap each ferrule before testing just to be sure they won't fail under load, 1/4 inch or so is all you need.

Thanks Roger, seems easy enough.
I had looked at the article in the library but it requires you put the tip top on and the reel seat. Was looking for a way to test without doing any work on the rod first.

-Marc

Adding a tiptop with hot melt is a piece of cake, and easily can be undone. You don't even need the correct size-as long as it will go on it will work for this. I see no need for a seat.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/03/2022 11:36AM by Michael Danek.

Threads like this, and replies from everyone is the reason why this forum is a gem.

Thank you all!

Michael Danek Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Adding a tiptop with hot melt is a piece of cake,
> and easily can be undone. You don't even need the
> correct size-as long as it will go on it will work
> for this. I see no need for a seat.


Certainly true. This isn't my first build, just never tested blanks before but after the issue with my last rod I was looking for ideas on a quick and easy way to test the blank right out the shipping tube.
Going to give Roger's recommendation a try.

Thanks for the everyone's help!

-Marc

I strongly second Roger's method! It is easily done(less than 5 min) and requires adding nothing to the blank out of the building sequence. I build only fly rods and test each blank I receive immediately upon opening the shipment. In all my years building, I have had only two fail the test.

What Mark suggested would be sufficient.

..........

Marc,
Pay heed to Spencer's comment about wrapping ferrules - or read manufacturers instx re ferrules - or call dealer.
Some blank manufacturers specify a minimum female ferrule wrap. i.e. Gatty (itally) specifies a 15 mm wrap.
I once fractured a #10 Gatti blank's female ferrule just spining.
Herb



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/04/2022 09:30AM by Herb Ladenheim.

None of the articles require you do anything, it's just the easiest way if you are doing a buildup, I have tested plenty of blanks without doing either recommendation I have also prototyped layouts on tape arbors and test casted rods with guides held on only wiyh masking tape.

Marc,
The main thing to be concerned with while stress-testing a blank prior to building is to get a good 90* bend in the blank OVER ITS ENTIRE LENGTH (minus the 10% held in the fixture). Roger’s method is very good although I simply put the butt of the blank in the crotch of a concrete floor and the wall and simply deflect the blank 90* at numerous positions around the blank. To be honest, I probably induce 100-110* to be sure. My procedure takes less than 1 minute to assure me the rod I build will withstand anything short of high-sticking. THAT is something ALL builders need to explain to ALL customers = NO ROD IS UNBREAKABLE!!!

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

What I do.

I have a sand spike type rod holder screwed to the side of the porch at about a 30 degree angle. It might be a good idea to slide a piece of EVA, or use some tape arbors, to protect the butt of the blank. I glue a tip on, tip a short piece of cord to it and a carabiner clip on the other end. I clip a small pail on it and keep adding water up to a known weight. I do this as opposed to looking for a certain degrees of bend.

Most rod blanks have a pound rating. Fly rods don't. Perhaps get with the manufacturer?

What percentage of a blanks rating you decide to test to is up to you. I wouldn't test your average fresh water rod at 100% of its rating, but I do so for a composite salt water blank.

P.S. wear safety glasses and protective clothing. Stop if you hear/feel any signs of distress.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Thanks everyone, lots of great info here just what I was looking for.

-Marc

Note:
If you use the floor for testing, the test is ultra simple.

While standing, hold the blank and touch the tip to the floor and begin to bend the butt of the rod. As you bend the butt of the rod, the bend in the rod will move down the rod toward the tip as the blank is progressively loaded and stressed.

When the bend has moved sufficiently to achieve the 90 degree bend without breaking you are done. You are exactly replicating what happens to a rod blank when a big fish is on the end of the line trying its best to escape. First the tip bends, and then the bend moves down the rod toward the butt of the rod, with the rest of the rod tending to only bend so far and continue to hold that bend as the force moves down the blank toward the butt of the rod.

The entire process takes maybe 30 seconds for a pass or fail.

Note: if you do this on a carpeted floor you will not put any scratches on the blank when compared to doing the same test on a concrete sidewalk.


Best wishes

Again, Roger's method, is the simplest of all those mentioned and will detect any defects that can cause rod failure when under fishing stress. You do not need, any devices or fitting anything onto the blank. I cannot see that any of the other mentioned methods accomplish more.

I’m also a ceiling pusher.
Norm

Assuming the rod will not break at the ferrule (something I have never seen) you could test-flex each segment of the rod separately against the floor. Just pad the small end of the rod segment where it touches the floor and hold the rod segment at a 45 degree angle to the floor to flex it.

It certainly seems logical to me that if the rod is in “segments” (multi-piece), the best approach to stress-testing the blank could only be achieved if the sections were connected as in a real-world fishing environment. How else could one induce a “uniform”, real-life anyway, 90* bend over the blank’s entire length? But then, those who never actually do any sort of testing on their own may be confused.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.