I'm going to build a bait finesse rod for stream trout just because curiosity is killing me. I plan to use an NFC 601 (IM) or an NFC 602 (Delta) paired with a KastKing BFS Zepher reel and PowerPro 3 LBS braid. Would like to be able to throw 1/32 oz jigs. I have a Fuji rv6 I can use for a stripper and minima 5's or 4's for running guides. I am thinking about a simple spiral. Can I use single foot guides for the second guide and the bumper. Never done a spiral before. I can use any advise any one is willing to give me.

Jim
I appreciate your curiosity.

However, I suggest that you save your curiosity for a different project.

Say what you want - it is going to be very difficult to pitch a 1/32nd oz jig with a bait casting reel - no matter the reel. The physics of a bait casting reel are such that a 1/32nd oz jig is going to be very tough to cast well.

In contrast, a simple 1000 sized spinning reel will excel at this task. Put 2 lb mono on this setup, you will be able to catch many trout with ease. If you have issues with line breaking, you can go up to 4 or 6 lb mono and your bite rate might go down - you will land more fish.

---------------------------------------------------------
However, if you did want to try a bait casting reel, purchase the blank that you want to use, tape on about 3 guides, tape the bait casting reel onto the blank and load your reel that you want to use. Then, tie on the 1/32nd oz jig that you plan to use for fishing.

Now, go out and do some test casting. If you find that you are happy with the results - go ahead and build it.

------------------
On the same vein - with a very light jig that you mention - a simple spiral is going to cost you some casting distance. i.e. in contrast to a conventional bait casting setup - with all of the guides in line with the reel, the line is routed to the underside of the blank. As a result, the line will experience some friction as it goes around the corner from the top side of the rod blank to the underside of the rod blank. Again, because or your very light terminal tackle, you are going to need every break you can - to extend the reach of your bait from the tip of your rod.

-----------------------------
I was just relating this story to a friend of mine last night. Many years ago, I was out in Montana where I was born and grew up. We were having a family get together and the menu was rainbow trout. We had a good location to catch these fish. There were a bunch of the family that were all going up to fish to get our dinner. Simply put some folks started with heavier line but were having no luck. But eventually we all moved down to 2 and 4 lb line. In this particular case, we were using live grass hoppers on a small hook to catch the fish.

With any line larger than 4 lb clear mono - there were essentially no bites. With 2 and 4 lb mono - there were a lot of bites. But the fishing area had some patches of vegetation. Unless one was able to keep the fish out of the vegetation, the fish would break the line every time. But in the end, with the use of a longer rod to be able to better control the rod and with the use of 2 and 4 lb line - the necessary fish were captured for a great family dinner.

Good luck on your project. But please do some testing before putting your components into their final build.

Jim,
Just a few posts down is info on BFS builds in general and a trout rod specifically. Mudhole also did a vid on BFS construction just a few days ago and it can be accessed from their site, though they admittedly say it is geared toward their Florida fishing experiences.

Jim,
Roger offers very good advice. Quite a few years ago I inquired on this forum why extremely few anglers use a baitcasting reel for mountain trout. The numerous replies were pretty-much unanimous = the very light lures or bait (<3/16 oz) were just not enough to efficiently get the spool of a baitcaster rotating. It makes perfect sense to me. Even though there are those who can “flick” the spool with their thumb, I cannot imagine being able to actually flick it fast enough to cast any real distance. But if all you will be doing is drop-drifting in the current of a stream, I suppose a baitcaster would work. Nonetheless, I’ll stick with spinning reels for trout and baitcasters for tuna.
The only point that Roger made that I am not 100% in agreement with is reduced casting distance with a spiral wrapped rod. In his defense, he did mention a “simple spiral” and “you are going to need every break you can”. With your UL baitcasting rod attempt, you certainly will need every break WHETHER CONVENTION OR SPIRAL GUIDES!!! A properly laid-out spiral wrap will not detract from the casting distance, at least not to any noticeable degree. But then, how big are the trout in your neck of the woods? Would you need or benefit from a spiral wrapped rod? Rod twist imposed by a 3-4 lb trout wouldn't be THAT severe.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Thanks for the replies. I've been fishing stream trout in SE Minnesota for 50 years and have the ultra-light spinning thing pretty well dialed in. Watched the Mudhole video about a week ago as well as a couple of videos of Japanese anglers casting 1 gram lures on small streams. I will build the rod and give it a test. The worst that happens is it gets relegated to bluegill, crappie and small bass on Lake Winona. I think I will nix the spiral wrap. It is impossible to have too many rods (an opinion not shared by my wife).

I enjoy BFS for mountain trout. I don’t go under 2.2-2.5 grams total. Under that weight it is not enjoyable to me. A trout magnet would need to be under an airlok, not that I could see either. Interested in seeing the responses as I am also looking for a new blank

With all due respect, bait casting reels have come a long way in recent years when it comes to casting light weights. I'm not saying you could cast a bare 1/32 oz jig with one, but I am not saying you couldn't.

I read this post yesterday and wanted to wait to comment until I tried something. Let me say that other than holding one in my hand, I have zero experience with a BFS casting reel. But recently I have purchased a Shimano SLX MGL 70 reel, that i have on a jerkbait rod I built over the winter. The rod is built on a Rainshadow Revelation REVS68ML blank. I have 10# Seaguar Tatsu on the reel, and the rod has a KR concept casting guide train,, KW8 butt guide, followed by a KW 5, then a KB 5 followed by KT 5 running guides. As you can see, nothing special.

I just came in from doing a few tests casts with that rod, using a bare 1/8 tube jig head. It took me a few tries before I could get it to actually cast more than a few feet, I had to turn off all the brake weights and turn the adjustment dial on the side of the reel, to zero. And I also had to loosen the cast control knob to the point that the spool had a little side to side play. So basically the spool was as free as I could make it. After a few more tries I was able to cast about 20'. Yes I had some over runs, with one pretty good one to the point I probably had to pull 20 yards of line off the reel to get it out. With more practice I may have gotten better at it. But then again I might not have.

Anyhow, my point is, while not being the 1/32 oz discussed here, I was able to cast an 1/8 oz bare jig with a reel and rod that are not meant for casting that light of a bait. Honestly, the rod didn't load at all. If it did I certainly couldn't tell. I am thinking that if you are experienced with a bait casting reel, and with the proper rod blank and a BFS reel, and of course much more supple line than 10# fluorocarbon line. that casting a 1/32 oz bare jig just might be possible. But remember, it is doubtful the jig will be bare.

Oh well.......... just sharing something I tried.

Unless you are fishing dinks I wouldn't think those reels hold enough to sustain a run from a decent fish that spools you while dropping through the lower rapids into the next pool. I imagine if you were fishing some of the freestone dinks you find in the upper stretches of some of the midwest streams you would be fine, and the lower slower, muddier stretches of those streams where the browns hold up would also maybe be ok because you only have the fish to fight. But get in some of the higher speed waters out west, good luck with that.
I watched some of those vids and their good cast is easily done with a spinning reel. Many times they mention being able to thrown more percisely because of thumb contact to the spool, I use forefinger contact to the spinning reel spool lip to do the same thing. In my mind you would really have to have a dislike for spinning gear to go that route completely, I've known a few that way.

I say this based on the weights of the bait's being talked about. Because the weights being talked about are so light, I tend to agree with Spencer when it talks about cast control with a spinning reel versus a casting reel.

As I mentioned in my previous post. I have never tried to use a BFS casting reel. They cast light weights significantly better than the SLX MGL 70 that I used for the casting attempts I made with the 1/8 oz jig I used. And I am certain the line being used would be much more supple than the 10# fluorocarbon line I had on the reel, and the blank my rod is built on would not be my choice for such light weights, but ..... with that said. you have to thumb the spool to control the line and achieve the accuracy that IMO, some easier experience wise, on a bait casting reel. I would think you would need an extremely light touch with the thumb to gain the kind of line control bait casters are known for. I just can't see generating the kind of spool speed with that light of weight. Even with a blank that would load properly with such light weights.

Probably like the most of us, my first reel, other than a Zebco 33, was an open face spinning reel. I used spinning reels for years before trying a bait caster, and I got pretty good and some might even have said I got really good, with casting distance, accuracy, and controlling lure entry into the water, with my spinning gear. I did as Spencer spoke of and used my index finger to feather the line during the cast. Eventually I found that for me, I had better control by cupping my off had over the line as it was coming off the reel, and letting my hand contact with the line control it. Using that method also puts my off hand in perfect position to close the bait by hand, and not by turning the reel handle. Another benefit of that method is that it allows me to easily give the line a little pull to snug the line up on the spool before beginning to fish the cast I just made. That little pull makes a big difference when using fluorocarbon line, as I do on my spinning gear.

I guess it would come down to how much actual cast control you need versus the weight of bait you actually need to use in order to trigger the fish you're after.

There are new reels that handle light line much better than older ones. $$$. That being said the lightest I use with a bait caster is 8 lb line with an 1/8 oz weight and a 4 3/4 " finesse worm. Good luck with your build and let us know.