I've never used CP and now I find myself scrambling. How much do I put on per coat? Do I just "kiss it" enough to moisturize the threads? Or do I put a heavy wet coat? What the proper amount? Do I wipe off excess?

Thanks in advance and forgive my ignorance.

Derek

I like for it to saturate the threads and then wipe off the excess if any. Then I’ll do a second coat for in case if I missed any spots. That usually works good for me.

I much prefer to never use any CP ever.

There have been a very few instances where a client wishes to have cp applied, but that is the only time that I use it.
I simply prefer the look of standard nylon thread, coated with no cp applied.

Best wishes

I agree Roger. This is the first time. The only reason I am this time is because the thread happens to match the reel that is going on the rod. Without CP it would change too much.

I do it like Alex, will add the detail that I keep feeding it to the guide foot tunnels until capillary action stops drawing it in, make sure I liberally cover the whole area of the thread, and blot the excess off with a paper towel.

One advantage of using CP is that if one does nail knot trim bands he can put a drop of CP onto the tag end junction to stabilize the knot, cutting the tags off after the CP dries. Then the knot will be a lot more stable. I also really like the bright colors and high sheen of regular thread, and you cannot get that without CP. I admit there are some looks and colors that you cannot get WITH CP, too, so one just has to experiment and go with what works for him.

Put on enough to thoroughly wet the threads. Do not thin it.

............

CP seals the wrap so that I only need one finish coat as thick or thin as wanted..guide wraps are much lighter that way..why spend more for light guides then saturate the wraps with several coat of heavy epoxy?

Derek, if you use the white CP's they have solids in them which can settle. If you haven't used it in a while, make sure to mix it to put the solids back into suspension.

And wraps using CP are not weak..in Rod Maker Vol. four Tom did study showing only a slight loss..it took ten pounds to pull a guide loose with CP to eleven pounds with no CP..and at seven pounds the frames were. Distorted for both set ups..you do not need epoxy penetration for wrap strength..

Derek

I don't know from CP and nylon. But if you are using silk, you want Al's Color Rite CP and multiple coats. The first couple coats will cause the silk to initially darken as if epoxy or spar had been applied instead of CP. However, the original hue will return as the CP cures / dries. Apply additional coats per the instructions. I very rarely use less than 3 coats or more than 5 with 4 being the usual sweet spot.

Ben,
You can do an experiment:

Take an old broken blank.

Wrap three guides on 1/2 of the blank and wrap 3 more guides on a different portion of the blank.

On one set of guides, put on two or three coats of cp.

On the other set of guides put on no cp.

Then, put three coats of thread finish on each set of guides.

Set the blank aside for 4 weeks to really let the finish setup.

Now, after the 4 weeks have gone by, remove each guide using what ever technique you use to remove the guids.

Let us all know what you find out.

---------------
The premise of this experiment would be to determine the adhesive power of the epoxy alone, or the epoxy on top of three coats of CP.

Do the experiment for your own information and power the results.

Take care

There is no question that the guide without the CP will come off harder than the one with CP. But if the one with the CP is strong enough to never come off in service, then there is no advantage in being stronger. I almost always use CP and have never had a failure of a wrap. The wrap with CP will be plenty strong. And in case the guide ever needs to be replaced, it will come off easier if the wrap had CP. So what one considers an advantage may in fact under some circumstances be a disadvantage.

What Michael said!!

Regarding the pull out test results, it doesn't tell the whole story, in my opinion. While the difference in pull out force may be minor, I have found the difference in the tenacity of the epoxy when trying to clean up epoxy when changing out a guide is major. With CP it's not too difficult; without CP it is a real chore. Just my experience and opinion. Not an objective test.

Michael have you tried Seymo CP yet,.clean up is so much easier with iso alcohol than water used in other CPs

I just dip my brush in then apply it to the thread while it is turning the same way I apply epoxy. Saturate the thread and remove excess with brush. Let dry and repeat or epoxy over it. I used to be like Roger but there are instances where it comes in to use especially with a tiger wrap. With a tiger wrap it will give better definition to the contrasting colors where they won't blend in together like they would if the thread becomes transparent. Also, as mentioned it saves weight. I used to make surfboards and a painted blank is lighter when fiberglassed because it doesn't absorb as much resin. The same goes for wrapping thread. I have not noticed that big of a difference when removing guides and have not had abnormal amount of failures or easily damaged guides.

No, Ben. You mean brush clean up? Because that's all there is with Flex Coat, and I just rinse under the faucet flow of warm water and it's done.

Michael, I was sAying Seymo CP made clean up of guide removal residue much easier because it uses isoprople..it,,s not a chore anymore.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/03/2022 06:24PM by ben belote.

Thanks, Ben.

Your welcome..I have used it to finish wraps because it resists water unlike most CPs..I once made a Seymo test wrap and let it soak overnight..the Seymo showed no cloudiness, stayed crystal clear..



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/03/2022 06:57PM by ben belote.