I was wondering what blades you guys use to cut thread on the ends of your wraps? I've been using utility/box cutter blades that I gave a couple passes on a leather strop loaded with buffing compound. Would double sid d razor blades or X-Acto blades be sharper and/or better to use?

Best are disposal scalpels.
Not the ones that you change blades.
If you get them be sure to wipe the oil off blade with alcohol.
Herb

Double edge razor blades.

Double edge razor blades, I cover the other edge with tape to protect me and the edge, or Persona single edge blades used in neck and edge trimmers in salons. They are like other single edge razors in general build, but they are longer and the height is about half, much better to handle in my opinion and they are much sharper than the average single edge blade. I get them at Sally's and other beauty salon supply stores.

Hunter,
I do not understand why double-edge razor blades would be sharper than single-edge razor blades, but many rod builders consider and claim so. I do not like the inconvenience of taping off one side of a double-edge blade or breaking it in two, so I prefer single-edge blades. However, I order the “extra sharp” single-edge razor blades from McMaster Carr. An X-Acto knife with a #11 blade is a must-have as well. I also use a small, pointed pair of scissors that I happened to find amongst all my stuff which are sharp and work well when a super-close cut is not required. Although I have yet to try a pair, many consider any of the “Dr. Slick” scissors to be the best.
Whether you use a blade or scissors is a personal preference and / or dependent on that particular application / operation. A blade can offer a closer cut, but there is a chance of nicking the wrap = BOINK, while scissors may leave more of a tag but much less chance of nicking the wrap. Either way, whatever you use IT HAS TO BE SHARP!!!
Herb offers good advice = wipe any blade with alcohol or acetone to remove any possible packaging / rust preventive oil!!!

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

No. 11 blade on a No. 3 scalpel handle

I use a pair of very fine and sharp surgical scissors. I never pull the thread completely through my wrap. Insert the tie off loop early and when ready to tie off, insert the tag end of the thread into the loop and pull the loop so it is tight against the wrap, then trim the tag end of the thread very close to the loop. Then pull the loop through, the tag end of the wrapping thread will be completely under the wrap with no nubs sticking up to trim later. Been doing it this way for a very long time. Obviates the need of a blade for cutting thread. The scissors I use look like this.
[mudhole.com]
Norm

I use something like this Flush Cut wire cutter. Never mess up wraps. Pull tag then put flush cutter next to thread, thread cuts and most of the time pulls under the wrap at the same time. Burnish a little and you can't even tell there was a tag end. No razor nicks.

[www.amazon.com]

I do the Norman Miller way. No muss no fuss.

The Dr. Slick scissors that Norman suggested look very nice; just grab them and snip without having to fumble-around with putting one’s thumb and forefinger in finger loops.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Norm's way here also. Otherwise scalpel.

From shortly after first starting to build rods, I was at the shop where I took my lessons and noticed that the master builder was using a Dr. Slick fly tying scissor. This was a fly rod shop and had plenty of these scissors in stock.

So, I purchased one and have used it exclusively for cutting every thread that I have used when wrapping a rod - ever since.

I touch up the blades about once a year, to insure that the blades remain sharp.

I use this general purpose one from Dr. Slick and it has stood me well for many many years:
[www.drslick.com]

================================
I also do a lot of sewing from time to time.
For that work, I always have a couple of scalpels on hand to take care of the seam ripping chores and other similar tasks.

I use a #5, #12, and a #25 scalpel. I also have several hundred blade boxes of replacement blades on hand.

I never use a dull blade. If there is the slightest hint that the blade is dull, I immediately stop and remove the current blade and install a fresh blade.
Every blade is sealed in foil to insure that it never corrodes or sees any air until it is actually put in service.

-----------------------------
Note:
With respect to the question about single and double edged blades having a different sharpness:

Here is a link to a supplier of single edged razor blades: [www.microtonano.com]
Notice that the thickness is .23 mm.

Here is a link to a supplier of ultra thin double edged razor blades: [www.microtonano.com]
Notice that the thickness is .1mm.

It simply stands to reason that the thinner blades have the potential to be sharper and in fact - are sharper as found by using some of each.

=======================================
By the way, for clean up work on a blank or other cutting chores that need a great handle and a sharp blade; it is tough to beat the use of the correct scalpel.

IN fact - if one does not have a #12 scalpel with a nice handle - get one. These ultra sharp hook blades are very useful in every day use from opening packages, to doing some other intricate cutting chores. The great inward curve with the untra sharp point make this sort of work easy.
Scalpel handles and blades of every description:
[www.amazon.com]
Examples of #12 hook scalpel blades and handles: [www.amazon.com]

Also, check this link on Taxidermy supplies: [cincinnatisurgical.com]

for various sized blades, uses and handles. Whenever possible, I prefer using the larger palm filling stainless steel handles for comfort and precision in using a blade as has been mentioned.
My favorite blade handle when I have a job that requires long term blade work:

[www.mckenziesp.com]

For example, in rod building - stripping a rod of guides when rebuilding a rod.

Best wishes

I bought a big bunch of single edge razor blades from one of the big supply houses, a sponsor, and they are definitely inferior to double edge blades and Exacto knife blades. If you plan to use a blade, go Exacto or double edge or scalpels as others have recommended. Box cutters have to be worse than single edge blades.

Norman, I've tried your method, can't remember why I concluded it went wrong, will try again. Sounds like the only down side might be visibility of the thread end under the finished wrap. With it being longer under (if you know what I mean) might mean it shows more.

I uee the Norm Method now also. I need to go to scissors since I've accidentally cut the loop end while trying to cut too close.

[flexcoat.com]

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

Mick - the amount of thread tag under the wrap, doing it my way, is no more than what you would have if you pulled your thread through after about 5 to 10 over wraps. The secret is to pull the tie off loop so it just about disappears under the wrap then you cut the tag end very close, almost flush to the loop end. The tag will stick straight up making trimming very easy. When you pull your lie off loop out the tag end disappears under the wrap, you don’t t even know it’s there. Very easy to do and you never have to worry about thread nubs. The reason for starting the loop early is just insurance in case you accidentally cut the tag a little long, it will still be under the wrap.
Norm

I also use Norman’s tie-off method although I started long before meeting Norman or any of the rest of you. It simply seems to be the most logical, fool-proof, quickest, no thread nub method to tie off a wrap. I cannot imagine a benefit to pulling the tie-off tag all the way through and out of the wrap, distort the wrap with the tag to open a gap, very carefully cut the tag, and then repack / burnish the wrap. But, I AM HERE TO LEARN. I actually use the pull-through loop to pull the tag under the first (or should I say last) rotation of the wrap thread to make certain the tag is well established under the wrap before cutting it, but virtually the same as the “Norman” method. The sooner (10+) the pull-through loop is installed prior to the end of the wrap = the better, but if one is careful with cutting the tag closely and pulls the loop on a 45* angle, it can be done in 5 or possibly less. But, to each his own = whatever turns your crank.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

If you pull the tag all the way through, then pull it to the outside of the wrap and cut off close, it will disappear under the wrap. The gap, if any, will either close on its own, or you hust burnish/pack it closed. It's pretty reliable.

Different strokes. . . Whatever works for you is right.

one word of caution: make sure your pulling loop is strong enough not to break when pulling the tag end under 10 tight wraps. A broken pull through thread means you have to unwind wraps to install a new pull through loop. I've done tis. It's a pain.

Tight Lies and frisky fish

RJF

Robert,

For all of my pull loops I use 15 power pro braided fishing line. I also add a nice bright pink bead to make the pull loop nice and visible. I use a surgeons knot to tie the ends of the braid together. I have used the same pull loops for many many rods. The braid breaks at a pressure that is about 5 times more than the breaking point of the typical rod wrapping thread. Normally never an issue with a pull loop breaking.

Also, the braid is much smaller than the typical rod wrapping thread and much stronger, and very slippery. So, the pull loops made of braid really work well for rod building.