I'm hoping to collect some advise...I'm working on an offshore rod. The tip section of the blank tapers to about a size 7 at the tip. The smallest tube tip-top available in the guide model we selected is a size 10. In the past, I've often used a thread wrap to fill the void between a blank and loose tip-top but I've never filled a void this large. I'm thinking I may need 3 or 4 layers of thread to make up the difference. I always use rodbuilder's paste epoxy to secure the tip-top on a rod this stout. My question is: would one use a thin layer of finish to "tie" the filler wraps together or epoxy the tip-top to dry thread?

I'd rather have a tip that fits than an exact match. I often use a high grade ring tip which may differ in color from the guides.

A tip top is one of the least expensive components of a build, I suggest you buy a tip that fits snugly and put any worries behind you. Keep the unused for a future build.

For me it is not important to use matching tips. I regularly use Fiji Sic tips regardless of the guide choice.

Have fun

John

I think I would try transitioning a few of the tip guides into a lighter style approppriate to the right size tip top, if the tip is that light the matching guide would also be more than strong enough and would help with the look you're after.

This is a spiral wrapped rod with roller guides. The ONLY TIP-TOP AVAILABLE is of tube size 10. A conventional guide would defeat the purpose of using rollers.

In which case, ignore my previous post.

How does that work with rollers and spiral?

You can cut the tip back a little bit.
Norm

John,
I would simply use as many layers of thread as is necessary to fill the void.
Then, use slow drying epoxy to epoxy the tip to the tip and you will be good to go.

I would encapsulate the tip with a over sleeve using Rod Bond and then sand it down until the tip top snugly fits.

Dennis J. Danku
(Sayreville,NJ)

Is it normal to use rollers on a rod that sma!l..

Jon,
I am assuming this is the rod build you mentioned a few days ago incorporating the All American Roller Guides for spiral wrapped rods. If a size 10 tube size is the smallest AA has to offer, that seems consistent with most tuna sticks = my 80lb Calstar has a tip size of 11 while my 100lb Seeker has a tip size of 14. May I suggest you verify the intended blank is capable of a tuna rod before continuing any farther. If so and that is the blank you WILL be building, the multiple plies of size D thread wraps will be your best option. By all means, epoxy the thread wrap bushing and allow it to cure PRIOR to mounting the tip top.With that thick of a thread bushing, you will need to make certain it is totally saturated with epoxy prior to installing the tip top. If the thread bushing ends-up being a bit too large, simply sand it down to accommodate the size 10 tip top.
The bottom line is to check / verify the blank is suitable for your application before proceeding. Obviously, if you are building a spiral wrapped ROLLER rod, you have no potions other than All American, guides and / or tip top.
Mark Brassett,
THE ONLY roller guides designed for spiral wrapped rods are from All American Roller Guides; other (conventional) rollers will definitely NOT WORK. AA rollers (both conventional and spiral wrap) are a quality product, designed and fabricated by Steve and his wife Laurie right here in Tustin, CA , USA, 100% USA made!!!

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Thanks. Mark. I see it on the AARG site. Very foreign (to me) but cool design.

Thanks to everyone for the input.
This build is the MOST unconventional rod I've ever been involved with but, it's kinda a "bucket list" thing for my 84 year old bestest fishin Bud. I told him he's gonna have a tuff time hanging onto it and his answer was "Well Jon, you're just gonna have to hold me by the belt then..." I've been trying to talk him out of it for years but he WON'T forget it! He swears he'll love it and says he's wasted a lot more on a lot less in the past if it doesn't work. I'm giving in...
Our blank will be a Northfork B80H. It's advertised as having a size 7 tip but I haven't received it yet to confirm. It's got a line rating of 30-60lb. I'm 90% sure I'm gonna chop about 6" off of the tip which will help fill the size 10 tip top tube anyway and give us a little more power. 14" of the rod will be butt.
We typically use 7' rods, Calstars or MHX Nearshore (LOVE these) rod blanks. Our favorite platform for tuna fishing is a "Party" boat. We enjoy the comradery and chance to "do it our way" that you don't get on a six pack. We are able to fish the entire perimeter of the boat. The rail of the boat is 6-8' off of the water. The reason for the longer rods is because if a tuna makes a run under the boat or is "death circling" it's way to the surface it's sometimes necessary to reach the rod tip down to the water in order to keep the line away from the vessel. We also incorporate about a 12" foregrip because "the rail is your friend" and can be used as a fulcrum in a battle. We don't use harnesses. I KNOW 7-8' seems way too long but after 30 years of R and D we've found it's what works the best for us.
Forgive me for being long-winded but I felt like I had to explain what we were up to...

Jon

From the drift of this thread I come to the conclusion that your bestest fishin Bud understands the concept of "CUSTOM ROD BUILDING", Glad you are giving in, the ride will be exciting and rewarding.

Please share the results.

Have Fun

John