Is there a formula for reel seat placement? I'm building a spinning rod & I've just gone by how my factory rods are setup. Any advise would be appreciated.

My formula is to make the rear grip extend nearly to the elbow and not beyond, when the rod is held in a position to cast and fish.

Perhaps a bit shorter for light and ultralight rods, where leverage for casting isn't needed.

Tony,
Remember back to the last time you used your factory rods; was the rear grip a perfect length or could it have been a bit shorter or longer? Only you can decide what the “proper” length is. There is no set “distance formula”. Only certain fishing techniques and personal preference influence the position of the seat. I probably prefer a longer rear grip than most; others may say it is too long = so what; I’m fishing it, not them. Placing the seat where you want it is the perfect location.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Thanks Joel & Mark. That's what I kind of figured.

Some argue longer for better balance, but if it gets too long then the butt will snag the inner elbow when going from tip up to down and vice versa. Don't ask how I know. Good advise to copy rods you like.

There are so many variables, when you are using the rod you must also first present the offering correctly, or the fish won't bite in the first place, if your grip length makes this less comfortable, or harder to do what have we accomplished? If grip length or type makes it harder to store, or unstore a rod will you enjoy it as well? If you buy a longer rod to cast further, get around a motor, or other obstruction and than take away some of that length, adding more mass in your hand to carry, go to a longer grip and maybe add balance weights, doesn't that sort of defeat the original purpose of the longer rod if it's length is behind your reel instead of in front? After all your forearm is a pretty substantial structure, it's not going anywhere, it's got no give, or hinging that grip length fixes substantially. Lastly, my largest stellhead, 43 inches, 20 lbs. was caught on a 7 ft. spinning, 4 power popping rod with a 7 inch rear grip on a uplocking reel seat. I picked this rod to be able to throw my offering accurately in tight quarters and low water conditions, I don't remember one instance where I thought a longer grip would have made a difference in the fight, it did improve the presentation though.
Lastly, not all reel seats are the same length and whether the reel seat is up, or downlocking changes the position of the reel on the rod and ultimately grip length some also. The thing is you don't have to guess, you can tape up a rod and move the reel seat around with a reel on it till you get what you need, than build to rod on those specs, make the decisions before you glue down and wrap things, there is no need to guess.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/02/2022 01:00PM by Spencer Phipps.

Good point, Spencer; it's not the seat that matters , it's the reel position.

Tony,
I prefer to fish with a balanced rod.
Over the years, I have tried a lot of different things to balance a rod, that involved various weights.
But at the end of the search, I have just abandoned the practice of adding any weight at all to the rod.

So, I just do what rod manufacturers have done for years.

I place a reel seat on the rod blank.

I place a reel into the reel seat on the bare rod blank.

I move the loaded reel seat back and forth, until the rod balances when I am holding the rod blank in the exact same position that I would have it if I were fishing with the rod.

I mark the location, and that is where I place the reel seat.

Sometimes, the rear grip might be a touch short, or a touch long for my preferences. But, I have made the decision to let the rod balance be the dictating item to determine the final position of the reel seat.

I also build as light as possible so, typically the length of the rear grip is in the nominal position that I prefer. If it is longer or shorter, I just discount any short comings and enjoy the feel and sensitivity that I have with a light perfectly balanced rod.;

It is up to the final user, and the builder to make the determination as to what factors are most important to the final user.

Best wishes.

I always measure spinning grips from the reel stem back to the butt. Let the seat fall where it may. We usually end up at 10.5 to 11", somewhat less on ultra lights. I'm with Spencer, can't see buying a longer blank just to waste it behind the reel.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/02/2022 09:21PM by Lynn Behler.

IMO what Roger described of placing the reel seat based on the balance of a rod and reel combination isn't a good idea. What good is a rod and reel combination if you have difficulties using it? And depending on the length of the rear grip, the difficulties could be such that stop using the rod all together. One thing about rod building is that if you make a mistake, you can tear the rod down and start over. The absolute most difficult procedure when reworking a rod, is removing a reel seat.

I too am big on balanced rod and reel combinations, but when placing the reel seat, I build for ergonomics first and foremost. A balance issue is much easier to fix than a improperly placed reel seat.

As to what Spencer and Lynn are speaking of, wasted blank length behind the reel seat. I would just say that caution should be exercised. Just as too long of a rear grip can make a rod unusable, so to can too short of a rear grip. The longer the rod is past you hand, the more leverage is applied to your hand. Back in the day, a 5'6" pistol grip casting rod was fairly common. Then for some reason I have yet to understand, the 5'6" length grew out of favor. Several manufacturers started building 6' pistol grip casting rods. I can tell you from first hand experience that such a short grip on a rod of that length, can cause physical injury. I am talking the kind where you have to go see a doctor, and go to physical therapy.

I would just caution from going to extremes either in too much length, or not enough length. If you have rods of the same length that fish comfortably, match that rear grip length. There is no shame in copying a factory rod's rear grip length, if it's comfortable to fish with. IMO it's the smart thing to do. At least until you've built enough rods to get a better idea of what kind of rear grip length works best for you.

For a spinning reel seat, I much prefer it to be down locking ( movable hood toward the tip). For me the hood doesn’t come loose at all when mounted this way, like it does when mounted up locking. However, many others prefer spinning reel seats mounted up locking. Basically your choice. Same is also true for handle length, whatever length is comfortable for you, your choice.
Norm

I did say spinning rods, check your e-mail. lol

Norman, me too. I have had factory spinning rods that were full length cork rear grips where the threads have to be exposed and they were extremely uncomfortable to fish with. I've had a couple of Shimano casting rods that had up locking reel seats, and they were constantly coming loose during use. I can imagine the same thing happening with a spinning reel seat of the same type.

And please don't everyone jump on my for saying they come loose. They did for me. Anyhow, I also like to build them down locking because it allows me to cut the thread barrel down to the pretty much the bare minimum. I don't use a fore grip on spinning rods anymore. I cut the thread barrel down and cap the end with an EVA or now, cork nub that is turned down to the OD of the thread tube. When I take off or put on a reel, the reel seat's nut will pass over about half of the nub before I can slip the reel foot in. When I tighten the nut up I have maybe two threads sticking out of the seat nut. It makes it for me, so much easier to contact the blank with the tip of my index finger.

So anyhow .... I think I have to go check my e mail. lol

With regards to the reel seat set up once placed where it works best for the rod maker:

In my experience, I have had great luck and comfort with up-locking the Fuji DNPS seat; the configuration feels best to me in my hand even though it may be 'backwards' from its original design. For whatever reason, I rarely ever have to tighten a hood nut, on this or any reel seat. Not getting on anyone here! Just my experience. I don't have secret knowledge of how this happens. (The only thing I can think of is that when I do a final tighten, I bury the hood nut in the web of my thumb and index finger and give it a good twist with my fist closed; not with my finger tips. I feel the nut 'seat', or snug up, and it rarely loosens.) Again, just my luck or whatever, not any kind of skill.

Another hypothesis about why up-locks may loosen is if the heel of the hand contacts the nut, and through the motions of casting, reeling, etc. it unscrews the nut little by little; especially if the nut wasn't tightened sufficiently to start with. Down-locking nuts receive little or no contact with the hand, therefore, are not likely to move.

One small note: I have read (on this forum) that sometimes hoods can get 'stretched', worn, or a particular reel foot may be lower profile than another - causing the hood nut to fail to tighten up. This is remedied with your choice of shim around the reel foot to create solid contact/friction: namely some kind of tape.

I ALSO like the down locking set up on casting rods with no fore grip. Here it is critical to have a winding check that my hood nut will pass over for the reasons mentioned above. I prefer no foregrip because I like to place a fingertip on the blank just ahead of the reel seat for bite detection. (In all honesty, I can't say I 'felt' a bite I would have missed if I just held the rod and reel in another way.)

When measuring the reel seat placement, always use the same markers consistently. I always measure from the very finished butt of the rod to the back of the reel seat foot anchor. Typically 9" for wading rods and a little bit longer (10"+) for something that is going to be used off a boat or shore. This would be for bass and bay type species (redfish, specs, flounder, snook). This puts the butt of the rod just short of my elbow when in hand, and since I am about of average height, this will work for a lot of people. Wading rods you want a little shorter to keep the butt out of the water when casting. Everyone is different so it is best to see if the rod will work like that for that particular client. You may have to adjust accordingly. Boat offshore, Surf and specialty rods are typically going to need a longer handle for leverage.

Absolutely agree with you

Up locking Fuji spin DPSSD seats don't come loose based on my experience. But to be sure, just use the Fuji back stop lock nut and have absolutely no worries.

I use uplocking TVS seats with threads trimmed and a backstop locknut, quite often. ( Mostly building for family and friends.)

One of the reasons I got into rod building, was to build my spinning rods with a down locking reel seats. All of the spinning rods at the time were up locking, I disliked them very much. If spinning rods at the time had down locking reels I might have never started building rods. I also think the down locking position looks better, but that’s just my opinion. Everyone has different likes and dislikes.
Norm

Form follows function. You don't select, install or recommend the reel seat for a trolling rod, a plugging rod, or a still-fishing rod the same way. Form follows function. Of course all concern about utility, durability and practical use fade to nothing if "good looks" are your main criterion for selecting a reel seat.