Whats the best way to remove those annoying thread burrs that occasionally rise up after the first epoxy application? I do my best to trim the thread and most of the time I can get tthe cut to disappear under the wrap, but sometimes my razor cut just doesn't cut the mustard. I've tried to sand them with an emory and slice them off with a razor.

Try some really sharp wire cutters or sharp fingernail clippers may do it. Gotta have the "flush" cutting blades right at the edge though. I use Plato 170 model.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/23/2022 01:02PM by Kent Griffith.

I just use a very sharp razor blade. I slice off a thin sliver of epoxy and the thread that is poking up. The 2nd coat of epoxy will cover the spot you removed epoxy from 1st coat. You won’t see any blemish after 2nd coat is applied.

Mark
If you're referring to nubs poking out after the pull-through. Just install pull-through earlier. But off thread flush.
Squeeze between thumb and index finger as you pull through.
Never get another nub.
If you're talking about thread fibers- do as above
Herb

I do much the same as Herb. Put the tie-off loop in early. When ready to tie off, insert the cut thread into the tie-off loop, pull the tie-off loop flush to the thread wrap, and cut the thread very close to the tie off loop. When you pull out the tie-off the thread end will be under the wrap with nothing sticking up. You will never have another thread nub to worry about. Been doing it this way for over 50 years, and have always wondered why everyone doesn’t do it this way.
Norm

Thanks everyone. I suspected there was a better way. I'm putting the loop in early from now on.

Mark,
When I do a thread finish, I put the pull loop in about 10 wraps before the end. Then, when I am at the end of the wrap and the thread has been pulled through, I stretch the thread very tight Then, I use my fly tying scissors to cut the thread flush. Because the typical nylon guide wrapping thread has stretch, because the thread has been pulled very tight, just prior to nipping off - the end of the thread contracts back under the wraps and there will be no nub.

I use this fly tying scissors from Dr. Slick. I normally sharpen the pair of scissors about every hundred rods or so. [www.drslick.com]

The advantage that I have found using a pair of scissors for cutting tag ends from guide wrapping, is that you can put the edge of the scissor tight to the wrap and snip, and never ever worry about nicking a thread on the wraps.

Prior to purchasing the scissors, I nicked more than one thread that required a rewrap of the guide. Can't take a chance on a nicked thread holding up over the long term.

Take care

A friend gave me a pair of eye surgery micro scissors about 10 years ago, and I’m still using them. Don’t know the brand, but seem very similar to these.
[www.amazon.com]
They stay very sharp, and cut quite precisely.
Norm

I've been using mostly D thread but have found out that the A tag ends are less noticeable. Roger, how do you keep the thread from moving at an angle under the wrap when you stretch it tightly before cutting?

Mark,
Thread fuzzies are inevitable but there are ways to drastically reduce them. First and foremost is a SHARP cutting tool be it a razor blade, snips, scissors or fingernail clippers. I purchase precision “extra sharp” single edge razor blades and style 11 X-acto blades from McMaster Carr. When using a blade, ALWAYS cut in the OPPOSITE direction from where the thread came from; this has a tendency to tighten the thread while slicing it off rather than loosening it up. When adding or dropping threads, wrap over the cut tag with as many wraps as possible; of course the downside is a longer “bump”in the wrap from the underlying tag = find the best compromise for you. Insert your pull through loop as early as possible (10-20 wraps from the end) so that when you pull the CUTT-OFF tag under, it is guaranteed to be left concealed under the wrap. Keep your wrap nicely packed while wrapping to minimize or eliminate the need to burnish after it is completed. Try to eliminate any small wire diameter screw eyes, or such, which drastically redirect the thread direction, especially if after a tension device.
As for dealing with the inevitable pimple in the finish, use a razor / X-acto blade to simply cut it off flush with a SLICING motion rather than pushing straight through.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Oh, and by the way, Norm was speculating on a broken rod near the tip that the break was likely due to high sticking. Turns out he was right. My nephew came clean after I rebuilt the rod for him. He slung a 2# speck into the boat (common practice for specks) and while trying unhook the slippery trout, he was holding the rod in one hand with the butt on the bottom of the boat. At that point he lost grip of the fish and its weight snapped the tip. I witnessed the sling, but not the break.

I had a ton of work on the handle and artwork about 6" up from the fore grip so I cut the blank off just above the artwork and bevelled the edge. Then I dug through my stock and found a 7' ML 2 piece trout blank with a small diameter butt. Drilled a hole through the rubberized cork butt cap and slid the blank through. Fit perfectly with a few adjustments. The butt of the new blank when pulled tight. extended inside the old blank about 4" below the bottom of the real seat. Rewrapped with the same scheme and it looks and works great.

Thanks for the tips, Mark. Learn something new every day on this site.

Mark,
I almost always have the pulled thread run under the threads at about a 45 degree angle.

That way, it is easy to keep the threads tight without causing any threads to come loose when pulling the thread tight.

So, rather than trying to avoid an angle with the pulled thread - I plan for the pulled thread to come under the wrapped threads at an angle.

Note:
When first starting to wrap, I had the same issue as you do. i.e. attempt to keep the pulled thread at 90 degrees to the wrap. After a few wraps pulled loose, I decided not to fight the tendency of a 90 degree pulled thread to loosen, was to not use a 90 degree pull thread, but rather a 45 degree angle.

Take care

Once again I use Norm's method, can't fail.

Pull on the Hypotenuse

I recommend Roger's method, Press the flat side of a fresh, double-edge razor blade atop the thread windings with the razor edge at a 90 degree angle to the blank. Keep tension on the tag end of the winding thread while you pull it backward - unwind it - into the blade edge. Properly done the stretch of the nylon thread will pull the cut thread cleanly under the wraps.