My first fly rod was fiberglass. It had a relatively slow action compared to the modern day graphite offerings. I got used to casting with that rod and now really don't care for any rod with a moderate or fast action. Seems I have to force a fast rod to get a decent loop/presentation.
So now I own a few slow action graphite rods. I bought these rods based on the the measurement of the butt diameter. I think I've correctly concluded that the smaller the but diameter for a given length, the slower the action.
Agree?
I guess I avoid fiberglass and bamboo because of the weight. I'm with Gary Loomis on that point " the lighter the better". In fact, my first graphite rod was a G Loomis design sold by Cabela's.
Unfortunately, I broke that rod when I slipped on a river bank and clenched the butt section too tight crushing it - the downside of "lightweight". I've never found a rod/blank that matches that. I have a CTS and vintage Diamondback that come close.
If you want slow in graphite you selection is pretty narrow I suspect is because stating a rod action is "slow" is bad marketing.
Can anyone of you recommend a slow action graphite rod/blank, 8" 5wt?

Jim,
What is the model of the CTS that "comes close".
There are a couple of options in discontinued CTS blanks that I can have built for you.
Herb
CTS

I believe the CTS was called "vintage'?
I broke that rod hauling in a large lake trout. 9' rod with 9' leader, the fish was~ 18' away from the boat. I have a tendency not to real a knotted leader into the guides so I choked up on the rod trying to net the thing -snap!

OUCH!!!
Yes - the Vintage was one of the "discontinued" blanks I was considering.
I just bought myself a Vintage 7'6" #4 for trout in RI.
I am really a Striped Bass guy - which are in short supply these days - so I thought I would try trout. very small in RI.

Lost interest and gave unbuilt blank to a friend who is big on trout.

The other is the CTS Matrix which is the first CTS I ever built 18 yrs ago.
Very gentle taper - but not as soft as the vintage. The original Matrix was built with 44msi graphite vs 57 msi.

I can get you another Vintage if you wish.
Herb
Or - if you still have the parts - we can replace the broken section



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/19/2022 11:21AM by Herb Ladenheim.

I think you're talking about speed, not action. Action is where the rod initially flexes, not how quickly it reacts and recovers.

If you have any modern carbon rods that you have trouble loading, most likely you don't have the right line on them for the distance you're casting and fishing. Upline by one, even two, and you'll have a rod that feels like your old glass rods.

.........

I agree Tom. That's what I have done with my Sage Pack rod.

But - But - sometimes you need a specific line weight for stealth. Overlining is counter productive in that situation.

I think Jim IS talking about action/\. If the Vintage blank is a "slow" blank and it did, somewhat, meet his needs.
Herb
CTS



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/19/2022 10:12PM by Herb Ladenheim.

Adding line weight to a rod won't change the action - nothing can. Action is built-in. It's where the rod flexes, not how fast or slowly it flexes and recovers.

.....

Herb,
I may be interested in replacing the tip section of my CTS Vintage.
How do I get in touch with you?

My email:
hladen@hotmail.com
Cost is 60 New Zealand - or about $41 U.S. + shipping from me to you.
Herb

Herb, check your e-mail.

With fly-casting it's line speed, not rod speed, which creates casting distance. Advertisers would have consumers believe that their rods are "faster" and "more powerful" so they cast further. Hogwash. Prop up your rod against a bench, pull some line out behind it, drop it, sit down, and wait for the rod's power to kick in. Or weight the end of the line, pull the line back the rod is fully bent, release the weight and watch the rod's full power cast the weight a magnificent five feet.