I just started turning cork grips, and have my first one done. It turned out quite nice, with my only regret being that I didn't use better cork. I had read more than a few suggestions of starting and practicing with a lesser grade cork, and well ..... after finding out how relatively easy turning cork is, I find that I should have just went with the good stuff right off the bat.

Now I will say that I only used regular cork and burl cork for my first grip, so they really don't present a lot of problems. The grip I've completed is relatively simple, The only thing that makes it a bit different is that I went with 2 1/8" slices that I made a checkerboard pattern using a medium burnt burl, and regular cork. The rings were cut into 12ths.

Anyhow, I am starting a second set of grips that I want to use rubberized cork on each end of the grips. It's a split grip set up. My question is, how the heck do you get the surface smooth? Once I sanded it, It has like little prongs of rubber sticking out of it. The best way to describe it, is that it's fuzzy. I don't have the rings glued up yet. The way I found about this is that I wanted to see how it would react so I did one single ring as practice. I've tried sanding it with 220 grit paper, and it's not cutting it. I still have those little cork nubs sticking out. If it matters, I am using the black spotted mix rubberized cork rings from board sponsor Custom Fly Grips LLC.

So if any of you guys can help me out here I would GREATLY appreciate it. The color combinations and ring configuration I've come up with is IMO, super sweet, and I want these grips to turn out perfectly. They will definitely add that "custom built" look to one of the rods I'm building. So ........

HELP !!! LOL

Oh and Custom Fly Grips LLC is a great place to order from, Very fast to fill and ship orders, and I am certain that when picking product, that they get the rings to match as close in color as they possibly can. They do a great job !!!



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/18/2022 08:39PM by David Baylor.

David,
Any of the cork, rubberized, or burled, will get smooth as can be, if the right paper is used.

Start with 120 grit and go down to 1200 grit. By the time you get to 600 grit, the finish is going to be getting really smooth.

In addition, another tip is to take the grip down to a good point, like 220 grit. Then, really wet down the grip and let it dry. The process of really wetting things down will let everything stretch out to their full length and then when you come back in with the next sanding process, and knock off those nubs that are standing up from being wetted down will really improve the appearance of the grip.

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Also, any more, I worry very little about divits or gouges or similar defects in cork. I just take it as the status quo, and just go with a filler, to fill any defects.

On virtually every grip, I go over the surface, once I am down to about 220 grit with Elmers pro light oak wood filler. This is an indoor, outdoor filler that fills well, sands well, and is water proof and holds up to the environment of the typical fishing rod grip.

So, after getting the filler on, and dry for about 6-8 or longer hours, I will go back to 120 paper, to knock off any high spots, then go down to 220, 320, 400, 600 and I typically finish off by simply turning the sand paper over and using the back side of the sand paper for the final polish on the grips. The grips turn out perfect and generally will give several years of use, before the grips may need to be touched up again.

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To clean the grips, I use either Simple Green, or Jungle Jake spray on cleaner and a tooth brush. This simple cleaner and a good scrub with the brush will make the grip look like new again. If, during the process, some divits appear, then I will also follow up with a bit of added filler and sanded down to give the grip a complete restoration after years of use using the same process outlined above.

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This process goes more quickly if one has a full length rod wrapper or full length rod lathe to allow the finished rod to be spun, while one is cleaning up the grip. Just use common sense if spinning a completely built up rod, to avoid excessive vibration and destructive harmonic vibration, that can destroy a blank.

Be safe

Every time I use the Elmer's I feel like I need a shower. Roger is correct, it is the way of the world and cork these days. Nonetheless, after so many years avoiding the use of Elmer's and thinking unkind thoughts about those who used Elmer's, my hands shake and I feel dirty filing pits and voids.

I have no problems using a process similar to Roger's, based on sandpaper and not lathe turning tools. David, have you been using lathe tools or sandpaper?

I like flocked Eva..after awhile the Eva starts to take on the shape of your grip sort of customizing it..lol.

Roger, thank you very much for your response. It is very much appreciated, and I will definitely give the finer grit sandpapers a try. I sure hope it works, because as I said, these will be some sweet grips if I can get the rubberized cork, right.

Donald, thank you for your response as well. I appreciate it. I did fill in the grip, and it doesn't look bad at all. I just think that once I go through the rings I currently have, I'm going to start buying a higher grade cork.

Michael, thank you for your response as well. It is much appreciated. I've been using lathe tools, but not on the rubberized cork rings. I was unable to get rings with 1 1/4" OD, so I got ones with 1 1/2" OD and used a hole saw to bring down the ID. I did it by hand, as the idea of trying to hold the ring while a hole saw was spinning in a drill press. I like my fingers in the condition they're in. lol

Anyhow ... when doing that I noticed the fuzziness and that it was the little rubber pieces sticking out, so I bored out the center hole to 3/8" and put on on my mandrel. I then took sandpaper to it. I started with 120 and then went to 220. I wasn't trying to take the OD down. I was just trying to see if I could get the surface to smooth. I'm going to try what Roger laid out for me, and seeing that you have success with the same process of using sandpaper, just gives me more faith that it will work.

So off I go to see what's what. I'm going to go, 320, 400, then 600 and see what I can get. If need be I'll go higher. As I said, I really want these grips to be perfect, so if I can't get the rubberized cork to my standards, then I am going to have to change it up. I sure hope I don't have to change it though. I love what these things look like. Can't wait to post a picture of them.

Back to report success !!! Thank you Roger, what you outlined, at least as far as I have went thus far, is going to do the trick. I've only went down to 400 thus far and it's smoothed the surface quite well. It still feels a little fluffy but I think going 600 and then possibly 800, is going to get me to where I want to be.

Only one of the rubberized rings may present a problem in that it is 1/8" thick, sandwiched in between 1/8" thick cork rings. I am going to glue up a practice ring in the same configuration to see how well it will work.

I really appreciate the help, and I have to be honest, I didn't think such a fine grit paper would work in the manner it did. I just had to apply more pressure than when just sanding regular cork.

I love this place, and can't wait to get them done so I can post some pics.

I will just add; I turn cork on the highest speed my lathe will go and have not had that problem with rubberized cork that I turn very thin. I also only go up to about 400 or 500 grit to finish. You will find something that works for you.