Would anyone be able to help confirm my guide placement is in the ballpark for a 1st time build? I did use the KR concept software, but I'm confused about a few items. 1. My butt guide is 31" from the end of the rod. Seems too long. 2. my choker guide is 51.5" from the end of rod. This seems too long also. 3. I have 28.5" from tip to choker for running guides. How many do I use and should I evenly spread them out?

Blank 80" long
Spool axle to end of the rod is 12"
reel size 2000

Dave

You are certainly in the right ballpark, according to the KR GPS. I assume you are using KL16H, KL8H, and KL5,5M KR guides for your reduction train and are using light braid or mono. I would use two more running guides than the KR GPS suggests, for a total of 9 guides. The extra guides will allow for nice progressive spacing and better spread out the load in the tip section and thus will give you a better static test. This will help with a light rod. A tentative guide layout I would use as a starting point would be the following, with all measurements being from the tip in centimeters.
9, 19, 30, 42, 55.5, 70.5 (choke) 87, 105, 125 (stripper).
This will put the stripper about 19” in front of the spool, and the choke about 21.5” in front of the stripper. I moved the choke out a little to get the spacing I like. I always use the metric system because it is so much easier than dealing with fractions of an inch. Do a two line static test to fine tune the spacing. Then take it out and test cast it. It should perform extremely well.
Norm

Dave,

Ditto on Norman's comment's about guide type and spacing.

Thank you Norman and Roger. Could either of you point me to the two-line static test instructions, please?

Don't bother measuring where either guide is from the "end of the rod." Measure from the reel to those guides.

Rod lengths vary. Guide placement per butt and choke guide are based on the reel, not rod length.

.............

Dave,
Congratulations = you are a fast learner!!! You can stop worrying so much. Your butt guide is 19in from the spool axle tip = PERFECT; anywhere between 19 and 21in is good and I usually start at 19in. The choke guide is 20.5in from the butt guide which may be a tic short; try 21 -23in. Space the other 2 reduction guides to form a bullseye between the butt and choke guides. For the runners, temporarily mount the first one 3.5 - 4in from the tip top, the second runner .5in wider than the first, the third runner .5 wider than the second, and so on until you get to the choke guide. If it works out evenly, you're lucky! If (probably) not, progressively adjust the runners, adding one if needed but do not take one away. The choker can be moved a bit if it helps. For your 80in blank, you will probably end-up with 8 guides + the tip top. Perform a 2-line static load test to achieve the line running as parallel and even to the blank as possible. Although you will probably find the guides require very little repositioning, get the line to mimic the arc of the blank as best possible. There is nothing wrong with adding a guide if you have to. Wrap it, fish it.
What size and type of line will you be using?
For <15lb braid (<8lb mono / fluoro) may I suggest;
KL-16H, KL-8H, KL-5.5M, 1-3 KBs and the rest KTs of your size choice to a LG tip top.
For <30lb braid (<12lb mono / fluoro) may I suggest;
KL-20H, KL-10H, KL-5.5M, a-3 KBs and the rest KTs of your size choice to a LG tip top.
While a KL-16H guide train is perfect for UL setups, the KL-20H may be more versatile when uncertain of the line type / size. A KL-20H will work with lighter lines better than a KL-16H will work with heavier lines.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Dave - Here is a publication explaining the two line static test.
Basically run the line from the reel though all the guides and tie a light weight to the line and let it hang there. Now tie a line directly to the tip top and then tie the line to a heavy or immovable object. Put a good bend in the rod and check to see if the line running though guides closely parallels the rod bend. This two line method makes it easy to adjust the guides with no load or torque affecting the guides.
[www.rodbuilding.org]
Hope this helps.
Norm

Dave,
Norman and Roger replied while I was typing. Mine mimics Norman’s because I learned from him.
The 2-line static load test will reveal how closely the line follows the NATURAL curve of the blank. Secure the tip top and temporarily mount the guides to the blank; the easiest most effective way is to use dental bands or thin cut pieces of surgical tubing but tape can be used as well. Secure the butt of the rod (I do it horizontally but others do it at a 45* angle). Run a brightly colored thread from the reel spool through the guides with a minimal amount of weight dangling past the tip top, just enough to straighten the thread. Connect enough weight to the tip top to put a good bend in the blank; it is best to do this twice, once fully loaded and another somewhere about half way. Simply inspect the path of the thread through the guides. Reposition the guides to achieve a line path which follows the curve of the blank as close as possible. When performed properly and precisely, the end result will be distributing the load on the blank as evenly as possible. While it may only be my opinion, I also think this affords the best casting distance as well.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Norman,
You are obviously a faster typer than I am!!!

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Everything those guys up there ^^^^^ said, is of course spot on. I would only offer a slight alternative to using two lines. Instead of using another line and tying it to the tip top, use a bent paper clip to hang a zip lock bag from the frame of the tip top. Fill the bag with enough pennies or whatever, to bend the rod as much as you want to bend it. It's really simple, and if you ever start wanting to do CCS tests on your rods for intrinsic power. it makes adjusting the amount of weight very easy.

David,
So you also think Norman is a faster typer than me? LOL

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

LOL Mark .....it's a timing thing.