I have used too small guides on a spey rod I've built for own use - loop connections do not pass through as the should.

Would like to replace with somewhat larger guides. What is recomennded procedure?
From what i have seen in different threads , it seems like the solutuon is to use heat for this, but not too much as it might damage the blank.
How much heat is needed for softening epoxy finish, and when does it get too hot for a blank?

Is heat gun/blow torch recomended - or could this be achieved with steam as well?

- Occasional amateur rod wrapper -

I personally would not use any heat.

Applying heat will soften the epoxy, however, you need to be very careful with the amount of heat, especially on the thin tip section. I would use nothing hotter than a hairdryer, and even then, just get it warm !

To remove the wraps, it is best, if you can cut the thread, on top of the guide foot, then peel the wrap off the rod. You will not remove all the epoxy this way, but should get most of it. After that, very careful scrapping the remaining epoxy should clean it up.

There are many previous threads, on this subject, available if you do a search.

If you slice carefully, with a safety razor right on top of the guide foot in a direction parallel to the blank moving toward the loop, you should be able grab a piece (s) of the thread and peal it off. Fresh epoxy should peal off pretty easy. I would not use heat on any thin section of a rod. What loop size are you replacing and with what other size?

Agree with Lance and Kent. Using heat on rods is a high risk proposition, even for the pros. Very easy for a newbie at it to put too much heat on. And it's not necessary.

I have used Torzite size 5 - was too focused on low weights.
For this spey (skagit) rod - 650 grains rating, this was not really important.
The rod was built for my own use - and frustration.

I will try with razorblade and maybe carefully use some heat.
New guides will be placed at exactly same place as old ones, probably hiding any mistakes.
Thank you all for kind replies.

Good decision, Audun. I suggest answering Lance's question before going with new-he knows fly rods. Get it right the next time.

Auden,
If you were concerned with weight and you should- why are you using ceramics??
I wpuld use #4 REC Recoil single foot guides and a REC Recoil Tip=Top with large loop.

Herb
CTS

Audin,
If you use a razor blade, only use the razor blade on the side of the blank where you will be cutting against the guide.

If you run the blade parallel to the unprotected blank, there is a good chance that you will catch a piece of graphite and strip it from the blank and ruin the blank.

So, if you use a razor blade on the tip section any where, do it with a scraping motion such that the blade is being held at 90 degrees to the blank. This means, that you are simply scraping away epoxy from the surface of the thread wraps - and NOT slicing through thread, and or blank material.

Best wishes

Have you considered using a piece of hollow-core braided nylon to connect the leader butt to the end of your fly line? Such a connection is plenty strong, passes easily through a guide train, and easy to make. You need only make a whip-finish of thread at each end of the braided nylon tube.