I need to buy some REC winding checks and need some advice on getting the right size. I've dry fit the fighting butt, reel seat, and handle on the blanks so I've been able to measure where the WC will go. For instance, on one blank I measure 25/64". The REC WCs are sized in 1/64" increments. I know I need to go a little larger than the measurement so should I go to up one size to 26/64" or go two sizes to 27/64"? I really don't want to ream or dremel to make them larger.

Thanks,
Mike J

Hi Mike,
It would be very unusual for the blank to be exactly 25/64th in the exact spot it will be installed.
Is that the actual diameter - or are you rounding up? Never round down.
If the blank actually measures 25/64th - then get that size.
Herb



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/25/2022 06:22PM by Herb Ladenheim.

I'd get 26/64ths. But I would measure the blank multiple times. With that being said, I don't think you could go wrong getting one that is 2/64ths larger either.

Every one has there own way of doing it , my way is one size an a small file if need be, 2 sizes could be too sloppy for me , If no file , Fine sand paper an a wooden dowel ,an it works for me

William Sidney
AK

Along that line... I have typically installed my alum winding checks over a decorative wrap and after a light coat of CP or epoxy. Because of this, I usually wait until after this process to measure and order my checks. Obviously, it is a pain for time as I have to wait to order them. I typically use A thread so is there a way to figure out how to order checks that will take into consideration thread and a sealer in order to order them right away?

Chuck

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Prior Lake Rod Building Guild
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Winding checks serve 2 purposes. First, and most importantly, when properly sized, fitted, and epoxied in place, they keep water from getting inside the grip. This prevents rot, and mildew. 2nd, they provide a visual continuity between the handle, and rod blank, increasing the attractiveness if the finished rod. If the winding check is tight on the blank, it creates a stress point due to its rigidity. If too loose, it becomes sloppy, and difficult to center, and glue properly. IMHO, the winding check should be just slightly larger than a snug fit, easily moved to its gluing point. This will allow the epoxy to fill the gap, and seal against water seepage, without adding stress to the blank.

I use digital calipers to measure the blank, right where the winding check will go, after the handle is glued into place. Then, I order the winding check just slightly larger than my measurement. I check how it fits after I receive it, before gluing it in place. I use a paste epoxy, forced into the handle, with extra oozing onto the blank. I place te winding check in place, centering it against the handle, and remove any excess epoxy for a clean finish. I've had no issues with this technique, and it looks great. Place a thin, straight strip of masking tape on the handle to prevent any glue from getting where you don't want it.

Ok. I'm done now.

Tight Lies and frisky fish

RJF