Hi guys, so.. i opened these jars of propaste. They are the 8oz. Jars. The hardener has a near black coloration in and throughout the jar, kind of like a long snake tail. That ends where they obviously pulled back to fill the next since its on the cap as well. Its not brand new, but it cant be more then 6 months old.. im just reassuring myself that this stuff is ok yet.. ya know.. before i cover this point blank in it...

I recall a few members saying that hardener has a shelf life.. is this a sign of aging too much? I just dont know...

I have no idea what could cause the dicoloration, but I would not risk a Point Blank until I ran a test on the Propaste. Easy to do, just take some from the clear area, mix it, and see what happens. If it hardens properly it is highly unlikely that it could be a problem.

But for 100% confidence, get new.

6 months should not be too long-I've had similar products for years and still good.

I"ve seen the resin thicken and/or crystalize from cold weather and age but never anything to either component such as you mention.

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Ill test it tonight.. bums me out..

Scoop out the questionable portion - don't blend it in. Use the portion that looks normal. I suspect it'll work.

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I suspect it will as well, just strange.. i figure if its fine so what, its not like your ever going to see it.. lol and if you do end up seeing it, it clearly wasnt good anymore lmao

Anthony,
Simply put, new epoxy is inexpensive.

Any time you have a question as you have posted - pitch the questionable product and move on.

Absolutely 0 reason to take a chance on a product that may be bad.

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For much of my grip work, I use slow drying epoxy. Either 15 minute, or 30 minute cure time epoxy.

If working with individual cork pieces, a foam arbor and a reel seat - one can coat with glue, assemble, and align all of the pieces before the glue starts to set up. I like this process, because, I can do all of the work on one rod - with one glue mixing setup.
For myself, this works very well if one is doing a full build on a full length rod blank, where you spin the entire assembly - i.e. grip part,s reel seat and rod blank on a full length rod lathe.


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It is personal preference, but I simply don't care to use any of the past style epoxies. I know that it works for many people, but after trying it a few times, I have just decided that the paste type epoxies are not my bag of tea - so to speak.

If you check with the sponsors on the left side of the page, you can locate the sponsor that carries these slower drying epoxies for uses in the rod building field.


Best wishes



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/16/2022 12:54PM by roger wilson.

Well, im still waiting for mudhole to respond to the return email of the pictures.. so i did a very small batch of the dark, the light, and a small batch of the little bit i have remaining from before.. they all cured. Although the old batch cured in the usual 4 hrs. The lighter batch took about 14hrs. To harden up and the dark test is still like rubber, but hardened to that point after 24hrs. So im going to say the epoxy is.. delayed in curing, but cures fine.. not sure ill use it on the point blank.. i should probably just throw it away.. maybe mudhole will answer. But like roger said. And i agree.. epoxy is cheap in the whole scheme of things.. just @#$%& a bit the weather is still cold enough overnight that when a new batch comes in the mail it will be hard.. that was the whole reason i got it before late fall. Oh well.. is what it is i guess

I am in a cold weather state. I have gotten in the habit of ordering in fall double what I think I will need on any cold sensitive products. Never know when something ain't gonna be quite right. I have been bit too many times by thinking it should be ok.

I ordered you some Rod Bond, should be there in a a few days. You'll be happy with it. You're welcome.

Lol the heck man.. thanks.. ive always ment to pick some up.. just never kicked yhat tub of procote. Then needed a little extra to get free shipping, and that popped up.. so.. ya know how it goes...

Thanks lynn.. im still staring at the point blank, deciding if i should wait or not.. you made the decision for me. Thanks lol

Mudhole sells Rod Bond. Quik Bond is great as well. (for those who may require less set time) for some reason you come to mind. Lol "Curing" continues for a few days after it initially sets for both.

Yes, but if memory serves.. its a bit more expensive.. and i was aiming for quantity over quality.. sort of speak.. everyone says handle epoxy is handle epoxy.. ive asked before amd everyone just says they have thier own preference.. i probably figured at the time, i knoe this works fine for me.. ans thus another trip to the register wiithout a new toy to play with lol

It's all good till there's brown crud in it. Tobacco juice perhaps, Lol

Eh.. no.. i wouldnt call that tobacco juice.. *shudders a little* way to thick for that

. I hope... lol

Anthony and all -

If you read the following article you will find that EPOXY finish, glue and resin - as well as Polyester glue, finish and resin - do NOT contain water. As a result - when in shipping the glue will be well below freezing.

But, once received and warmed slowly to room temperature - all is wall and the properties of the epoxy finish, glue, resin, paint and the same for polyester glue, finish and casting will not be affected by the shipping of the materials and even storing the materials in sub freezing weather.
[www.masterbond.com]
Just let everything warm slowly up to room temperature of +60- +80F. and one will be fine:


[www.masterbond.com]

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Note: glue and or paint that contains water - should not be shipped nor stored in sub freezing temperatures. -- Also, glue or paint that contains water that is frozen rock solid by leaving it for extended times in sub freezing temperature - is very likely ruined and will not be useful once it it thawed out to room temperature.

It's not a temperature issue.