How do you do it for heavy offshore rods? Do you use Epoxy or a glue stick?

A high temp glue will work, but you need to be very certain you get glue into the tiptop tube and between the top and rod blank tip. So heat the glue stick and push the tiptop into it. Slide/slice it off the stick and that will leave glue inside the top. Then lightly heat the top tube for just a very few seconds and push onto the rod blank firmly. If done properly, this won't fail.

Otherwise, 5-minute epoxy is a safe bet. A little harder to remove if the tiptop ever needs to be replaced, but that's the only trade-off.

...........

For heavy offshore rods epoxy will afford the best bond.

I have cutting slices off the glue stick , pushing them down into the tip tube and then heating/melting the glue before I push it onto the blank.

Michael,
You will find varying opinions as Tom suggested. While he added “...5-minute epoxy is a safe bet” and John offered “For heavy offshore rods epoxy will afford the best bond” may be true, I use specific tip top hot-melt glue and have had no failures. As you, I pack the inside of the tube with slivers of adhesive and additionally coat the blank tip as well. Think about it; just because it may be a 100lb tuna rod does NOT equate to 100lb of force trying to pull the tip top off the blank! The line is slipping / sliding over a guide ring, or over a roller for even less friction = I doubt there is 5lb of force trying to yank the tip top from its perch. Furthermore, tip top adhesive eliminates the possibility of ruining or having to shorten a rod by attempting to remove a tip top which has been epoxy-bonded into place. In the end, the correct or wrong method is up to the builder.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

I feel the same way but didn't know what others do. I want to be able to easily remove the tip if it ever needs to be replaced.
Thanks for everyone's input.

The size of the tiptops used on heavy offshore rods means you have a lot of surface area for the adhesive, whatever it is, to bond to. Applied properly a quality high-temp hot melt glue will be fine.

...........

Hi All.

I use a high temp hot melt glue, Iuse a high temp gun and lay down a bead of the hot glue let it cool then cut it into about 6" strips.

I then take the top with the open end up, place the strip into the top and cut the glue a little above the top, then melt by gently heating the top till the glue melts, then put the top on the rod.

Works good & lasts a long time.


Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

When I put rod finish on my tip wraps I like to let the finish run over the tip tube just a little for some extra adhession.

Michael,
To be honest, structurally, the extension of thread epoxy onto the tube of the tip top probably amounts to diddly squat. I do it also, but only to afford a smooth transition from the tube to the wraps.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

I use Bohning Ferr-L-Tite. It's used in the archery world to hot glue inserts and outserts on arrows so broad heads and field points can screw into them. It has a melting point of 350 degrees and I haven't had a tip-top come loose yet. I've always used this and I noticed in my local tackle store that's what they use also for their repairs to offshore rods, and they sell it too.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/31/2022 09:56AM by Fred Zimmermann.

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If John from Flex Coat is still following this topic, what is the melting point of the FC tip top adhesive? I am guessing ~175* F. While Fred’s hot melt material may be a fine product, it’s 350* F melting point may be a bit high when concerned with possible damage to the blank when trying to remove a tip top. I am aware of methods designed to localize and minimize the heat required to remove a tip top but do not see the point of risking blank damage by applying more than 200* F. And sorry to those insistent few who expect others to supply hard data numbers; I do not know precisely what temperatures blanks can withstand before damage occurs.
I have always used Flex Coat tip top adhesive; it simply works, I have had no failures = a great product, great customer service from a great USA company that is committed to assisting builders through replying to posts such as this. Thanks John!

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Mark Talmo Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> If John from Flex Coat is still following this
> topic, what is the melting point of the FC tip top
> adhesive? I am guessing ~175* F. While Fred’s
> hot melt material may be a fine product, it’s
> 350* F melting point may be a bit high when
> concerned with possible damage to the blank when
> trying to remove a tip top. I am aware of methods
> designed to localize and minimize the heat
> required to remove a tip top but do not see the
> point of risking blank damage by applying more
> than 200* F. And sorry to those insistent few who
> expect others to supply hard data numbers; I do
> not know precisely what temperatures blanks can
> withstand before damage occurs.
> I have always used Flex Coat tip top adhesive; it
> simply works, I have had no failures = a great
> product, great customer service from a great USA
> company that is committed to assisting builders
> through replying to posts such as this. Thanks
> John!

It's never hurt my tips before and I've been using Ferr-L-Tite for the last 30 years, long before I started building rods. I think it would be clearly evident if it had. When breaking the bond I would say it takes no longer than a few seconds with a lighter. So, if it only takes a few seconds to reach 350 degrees, and I am willing to bet that most of hold that lighter on the tip-top for about the same time. In other words, we are already heating out blanks up to 350, whether it's needed or not. Mark, I will test that theory tonight, you've got me thinkin'. Also, Ferr-L-Tite actually has two types of hotmelt, they have one that melts at 280 degrees for... you guessed it...Carbon shafts. Go to their website and check it out.



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 02/01/2022 07:43AM by Fred Zimmermann.

For many decades I have used stick shellac to bond tip-tops to rod blanks and broadheads to arrow staves - with no failures. I suspect taking care with the preparation of components and the heating of the adhesive is most important to a solid connection

I have always used a " Glue Stick" without any problems. I do a lot of offshore bottom fishing and at times I have to replace the rod tip due to someone winding the large bottom rig into the tip with a electric reel. It sure is easy to melt the glue and replace a tip. I would think Epoxy could cause delamination of the blank if not done right.