I've built a couple of rods with the following guide train. 6'2" spinning rod XF 6-15 lb line; I usually use 6 lb. 1st is a tall 16 mm, next 8 mm, next 6 are 5s. All except the 1st are regular height. I placed an order for those guides but received all tall(match) guides. Is there any advantage or disadvantage of using all tall guides. Thanks

Set it up and look at the line path from reel to choke or tiptop (depending on what system you're using). The guides should be what they need to be. It's all about the line path. If you have a similar line path to what you normally have, albeit it's a bit lower under the rod, then the only difference will be a more stable rod due to the higher guides (longer lever arms).

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What brand of guide are you using? You could certainly use the 16H, 8H, and 5H in a KR-like reduction train, then use low profile size 5 or smaller running guides. Using size 5H runners would similar to what are used when setting up a Match rod. They work fine but then you would need a high profile Match tip top to reduce the line angle entering the tip top. I’ve built a few Match rods many years ago, I much prefer the KR concept using low profile runners, over the Match guide setup using high profile runners. The 5H guide will have a height of about 14.5-15mm, which in my opinion is very high for a running guide.
This is what a Match guide tip top looks like.
[rodbuilderswarehouse.com]
It is a little strange looking.
Norm

Ring height not size will effect how your reduction train performs or does not perform. Taller guide typically will allow use of a smaller ring. Which alot of times is a bit lighter giving the advantage of weight reduction. Probable the most common reduction train used for spinning is 16 8 5 in either Fuji KLH or Pac Bay Match. I use almost exclusively Pac Bay minimas. After the reduction train 4 or 5 as the runners is the most common size.

I have been finding if I really purpose build a rod you can get away with fewer and smaller reduction guides. Nearly all my ultra lights are using a two guide reduction going as small as a 8 match as my first reduction. But I know exactly what reel and what line and test before wrapping. If rod will see mixed used or unknown use the 16 8 5 is going to give good to excellent performance 99 percent of the time it seems.

I'm using SSR guides which are very similar to Minimas. I ran the KR concept chart and it came close to what I used before. I'm thinking now about a 16 high, 8 high and the rest 5 low and putting less than I did before like the KR concept recommended. I ran over the original rod handle when I kicked it off the boat at the ramp last year. I repaired the rod but need a backup. The reel was toast.

If your using braid that should be perfect with a 2000 to 3000 series reel. More I experiment I am coming to the conclusion with braid of most any weight that a third reduction is not really needed. Mono over 6 pound I think a third is needed.

Guide height AND guide ring size are both very important in how well your spinning guide reduction train performs . knowing your line type and it's characteristics and reel and spool specs makes things much much easier in determining the best height and ring size choices to go with . Proper height but ring sizes that are overly large for your line type and sizing will allow much too much play (Lost efficiency) inside the ring especially in windy conditions . You want to restrict the lines movement inside each ring (Side to side and up and down ) but at the same time avoid restricting it too much to where line speed is effected negatively . Maintaining line speed while also preventing too much line movement inside the ring is the key for ultimate efficiency with spinning setups .

Having said that it's not easy to do it takes a lot of trial and error and keeping good records. Having a very thorough knowledge of many different line types and sizes and their characteristics and how they perform on your reels of choice will also make things a lot easier . It's much much easier to just choose guide heights and ring sizes that have worked universally well and there's nothing wrong with that method either . If you plan to use different spinning reels and line types on a build choosing the next guide ring size up will be the way to go like a 20 instead of a 16 or a 25 instead of a 20.

The SSR MXG guides are a shorter than other match guides I’ve use. So going from a 16H, to an 8H to a size 5 SSR RXG running guides may work just fine. Probably better than going to 5H runners. Sorry to hear about your rod and reel.
Norm

Norm, Only the handle of the rod was split. I glued a tight fitting rod inside and have been using it for almost a year. Caught several hundred bass with it. Last week I caught an 8.25 lb bowfin with it. Yes I have pictures. I'll let you know how the rod turned out.

Sounds good.

I've only caught one bowfin in my life, and it pound for pound, put up the best fight of any fish I've ever caught. I didn't weigh it, but I would guess it to have been between 4 and 5 lbs. I can only imagine what an 8 lb + one would fight like.

Alex? What did you catch it on? I caught mine on a Mann's Rat, the precursor to the hollow bodied frogs on the market today. Man did that thing blow that bait up.

David, I caught it on a finesse plastic worm with 6 lb line while fishing for bass. Yes they do tend to go berserk when hooked. I have a place near me that I usually catch one or two on a white spinnerbait. They tend to destroy a spinnerbait. I'm in central FL for the winter and catch at least one a week while I'm here.

Are there any publications available which provide a list of which rod blank/guide train combinations result in (1) the most accurate casts and (2) the longest casts - or are they all pretty much the same?

Simply put - I doubt very much if any particular set of guides is going to have much of an effect on the accuracy of the cast, nor the length of the cast.

Rather- the accuracy of the cast and the length of the cast is dependent on the Person doing the casting. But, the length of the cast is also dependent on the length of the rod, as well as the stiffness of the rod blank.

Of all of the items on a rod, I suggest that the guide has the very least effect on the cating accuracy or the length of casting.

Note:
There is a caveat in my statement. i.e. the guide train is sized to the extent that essentially the line does not touch any guide as the line is being cast.

In other words, if one or more guides - effectively choke the line as it is streaming off the reel by being in the wrong position or being too short, or being too small - then of course the guide train has an effect on both the casting distance and or the casting accuracy.

So, start with the assumption that the guide train is the right height for the spot on the rod. Is the right size for the spot on the rod and the overall spacing of each guide in the guide train is perfectly spaced to eliminate any line degrading effects.

I’ve never understood concerns about rod accuracy. When I cast with poor mechanics and timing, my casts are inaccurate. I usually know this will be the case upon release. When I cast well, I hit my target. I have accidentally broken lures on rock walls and precisely hit tiny water pockets with exactly the same rod.

Everyone would agree that consistency is the key to accuracy. But would be all agree that the rod needs to handle the line consistently, in order for the angler to make consistent casts?

There is no doubt in my mind that the rods I build, handle the line I use more consistently than the factory rods I used to use. There is also no doubt in my mind that my accuracy and casting distance has improved because of the rods handling the line better.

I don't need printed data to know that. I can see it for myself. And I have no doubts that others have experienced the same results as I.

David,
I suspect that the converse is also true.

i.e. for some rods, the factory rods do the job better than the custom rod.

Sometimes it is one tiny tiny thing in a rod that creates a problem. Then, solve that tiny, tiny little problem and all will be well with the rod and its response to excellent casting technique.