Re: Looking to get into rod building
Posted by:
Les Cline
(---.lightspeed.mssnks.sbcglobal.net)
Date: February 06, 2022 03:37AM
Andrew,
Awesome advice and suggestions here!
Like I am vulnerable to doing, let me tell you a story to make a relatively simple point or two to reiterate what you have already read here and encourage your efforts:
Love the Float and Fly technique (learned it on Dale Hollow Lake) ! I built a rod on a Loomis GL3 fly blank with a cork Tennessee Handle back in the day (late 80's as I recall). The guys back then would throw a fixed cork on a 9 to 12 ft. leader so they used long rods to keep the line, cork, and fly/jig off the water when casting. Casting distance was somewhat limited because of these 'logistics'. There was even a special cast that some had mastered to achieve a type of 'swing and fling' of a relatively light set up. They could really huck that rig well considering the dynamics.
I'm sure I wasn't the first, but I figured out a better strategy for my style with a shorter rod and a Slip Cork the next year. Used braided line (because it floated) with a #4 leader of mono about 9-10 ft. long and a 1/16th Craft Hair Jig. I got part of it right, but not all of it. I used a little "rubber sausage" style float stopper to hit my depth at first; later switched to Rubber Cement on a Double Uni Knot. I reeled that sausage stopper right through the guides and just shy of the spool or sometimes into the spool. My slip cork would hang maybe two or three feet off my rod tip when I made my next cast - not the 9-12 ft. of line my fishing buddies were trying to manage. Made some racket casting, as you might suspect, as that stopper ran through the guides, but it went through pretty well anyway. I could cast at least 30 to 50% farther than they could. Can't say I caught more or better fish than them consistently, but I didn't do worse, and on some points and banks, I did better because I could cover more water first, and faster than them. Caught some very nice smallmouth bass this way. And I did not have to feel like a ballerina inside a marshmellow when I wanted to cast.
My first point with that story is this: Welcome to Custom Rod Building! There are a gang of craftsmen here that are into all kinds of rods, lures, interests - like you.
More babbling to get to my second point.: Back then, #6 ring guides were about the smallest we could get with the sources we had. Good thing since I needed the extra diameter to pass that little bobber stopper through about 10 guides. Man, we hucked those rigs as far as we could throw! Also helped because we fished in January and February, and ice in your guides was common.
My Second Point: Select your components to maximize your techniques and style of fishing. For me back then: Shorter rod was easier and more accurate to cast. Larger guides passed my leaders and knots. I could make a rod that was a better fit than what I saw around me (For me, not everyone).
My Last point from that story (Finally!): I built my Float and Fly rod trying to mimic what I saw already existed - long rods to cast long rigs. I still have that rod, but don't use it much. Because I had learned how to build a rod, I could think outside the box a little and experiment. I'd build a different rod today than the first two or three initial attempts at it. Take an idea and walk with it for a time or two around the block.
I still have some Craft Hair I bought from a shop in Celina, Tennessee. Still tie jigs.
