Hi All,

Semi-new to rod building. Have put together a couple ice rod builds, but have yet to put together anything for open water. Planning to update my open water arsenal with three new builds, and just wanted to make sure nothing seemed out of place. Build plans are as follows:

1) Lindy Rig - Batson/Rainshadow IMMWS7ML-TC, Fuji KL-H reduction train (16H, 8H, 5.5M) per the KR GPS software, to size 5 KB/KT runners and an LG tip top.

2) Vertical Jig - REVS62ML-SB, Same reduction train/guides as above (per software) with adjustment per length.

3) Snap Jig/Blade Baits - IMMWS68MXF-TC, Same reduction train/guide plan as previous two with adjustment based on length.

As I haven't built an open water rod yet, I plan on purchasing KL-H guides of the next size up reduction train (20H, 12H, 8) just to have for reference/comparison to the 16H based train. I was originally planning on building off Rodgeeks C4 blanks, but the specs of these Batson blanks and the reviews I've read on here and elsewhere seem that they are more than worthy of filling my needs. I am curious though if anyone has a direct comparison of a Revelation and a C4 of similar length/power and wondering if the sensitivity is worth the extra $20 to jump from the Revelation blank to the C4.

Thank you all for the advice I've gleaned though lurking thus far and look forward to learning more from you all.

I lean more to a MH for snap jigs and blade baits, but I have no idea what weights and depths you need to fish. I haven't used every MXF, but they tend to have soft tips.

I'm confused by the reduction train comment. I'm used to these groups in this type rod: 20H- 10H- 5.5 M or 16H- 8H- 5.5M, why the size changes? What is "the next size up" reduction train?

The 20H- 10-H- and 5.5M are what I use on my rods because I use fluorocarbon line. Maybe it is the next size up because they are meant for heavier, stiffer lines?

I don't have any experience with the particular blanks you mentioned, but I did just build a jerkbait rod on a trimmed down REVS68ML. If the 62ML has the same type of power, I think you will be happy with it. It's got good sensitivity. While I have never even felt a St Croix blank or Rod Geeks blank, from what I have read others say, that the C4 is comparable to St Croix SCVl. One step below St Croix's top of the line blank. My guess would be that the Immortal would be in that class.

Further confusion, David, did you mean to type St.Croix SCIV?

Go with a hot shot blank for a rigging rod...nfc, lamiglass, rainshadow and mudhole all have(or recently did...look for HS9600 or 01...most labeled the same ) 2 options, go with the heavier one for over 1/2oz sinker, lighter one for less......bump up your snap jigging/blade bait rod, might be a little light. Stick with a 16 guide train for all. No need for a 20 size guide unless you have large reels for walleyes....can toss 3/4oz 6" swimbaits on a suitable MH rod with 17lb braid with a 3500 size spinning reel just fine for any freshwater application...

Isaak,
Actually, I am familiar with everything you have mentioned and find no issues with any of them, nor any problems with the guide setup either.

Good luck and catch a bunch.

I don't know anything about walleye but I see the IMMP76ML recommended a lot for the lindy rig. I have the predecessor to that blank and it is a terrific blank.

And yes, make the other set of guides 20H, 10H, 5.5M. I'd go with 16H for 2500 and smaller reels with braid or mono up to 8#. After that go with the 20H. Just stay with the recommended grouping. I'm assuming spinning rods.

I'd say 4.5 seems most popular for the KB/KT. Given that every spinning rod you build will use one 5.5M , one or two KB's and three to four KT's.....it pays in the long run to order in bulk. I also like the Flex Coat Guide Foot Adhesive.


[flexcoat.com]

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

LOL Lynn ..... yes .... yes I did. lol

What do Walleyes have to do with the brand and model of rod blanks and components? Are some makes of guides, blanks, and adhesives better than others for catching walleyes, or did you chose walleyes as representative of a certain size of fish?

Phil Ewanicki Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> What do Walleyes have to do with the brand and
> model of rod blanks and components? Are some makes
> of guides, blanks, and adhesives better than
> others for catching walleyes, or did you chose
> walleyes as representative of a certain size of
> fish?


Phil, it's more of a technique than anything else. Jigging or slow rolling bait Plus walleye have somewhat of a soft bite. That's why most walleye specific rods are lighter in power



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/23/2022 07:51PM by zachary guyach.

My guess is he chose walleyes because that is what he fishes for.

Good one Jeff!

Thanks zachary:

A light power rod for light biting fish makes sense - let them hook themselves. I have chuckled at numerous freshwater anglers who set the hook with all their might - and I suspect some of them are using circle hooks!

Lindy rigging really isn't a sensitivity thing, I myself would grap a few NFC HS7600-1 Delta blanks, and the price is definitely right right now.

Just my opinion here, but a Lindy rig, if you're using the Lindy walking sinker, is pretty much a Carolina rig. In fact, I use Lindy rig walking sinkers for my Carolina rigs when fishing rock and gravel flats, for bass. It was designed for fishing those kind of areas for walleye, and it comes through that kind of stuff way better than an egg or bullet sinker does.

I rarely fish for walleye anymore, but when I did, I used a Lindy rig more often than not. And even when using live bait, having a sensitive rod is a definite plus.

For walleye fishing, your boat is essentially a bobber, I was moving very slowly, well under 1 mph, and I was taught to wait till the rod was loaded by the fish before the strike, much like livebait fishing and at anchor river fishing for salmon. The NFC Delta is a sensitive blank, especially if you mean a visual indication is important, tactual sensitivity is not the only way people discribe sensitivity. By the way the glass used in the NFC Delta has a modulus much like the original 33 mil graphite and it also uses graphite in it's composite construction. They really are not much different from the all graphite SM blanks.

Hi Isaak,

I am interested in hearing how your jigging rod turns out. I have built one and starting another now - vertical jigging specific rods.

My first was a 6' L CS721-MHX 'shooter' blank, which turned out well and after one season I liked it. The second build I am going even shorter with a 5' 9" ML ASJ691 PB Arctos.

I am curious if you targeted the REVS62ML-SB for that specific length or why else?

Chris

Chris,
IN these days of wider boats, many folks have gone away from the 5'9" rod lengths simply because sometimes this length is a bit short if used from the middle of one of today's wider boats.

However, from time to time, I will use my 5'9" jigging stick that was one of my first builds from years ago. It is still a wonderful sensitive rod that catches a lot of fish.


By the way, if you like to vertically jig from a seat that is next to the gunnel of the boat - consider building the rod as a casting rod.

For vertical jigging with not a lot of casting, the use of the casting reel can really be the answer to put a lot of fish in the boat.

Especially, if you are driving the boat and also need to help others in the boat, the use of the shorter rod with a casting reel can often be the answer to rod and reel management and eases the logistics of rod management in a busy boat.

I know that nearly all of the guides on the head boats on some of the bigger walleye waters in the midwest, use shorter jigging rods with casting reels to make their job of running the boat and guiding and helping clients eases their job.

Be safe

Chris Baker Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Hi Isaak,
>
> I am interested in hearing how your jigging rod
> turns out. I have built one and starting another
> now - vertical jigging specific rods.
>
> My first was a 6' L CS721-MHX 'shooter' blank,
> which turned out well and after one season I liked
> it. The second build I am going even shorter with
> a 5' 9" ML ASJ691 PB Arctos.
>
> I am curious if you targeted the REVS62ML-SB for
> that specific length or why else?
>
> Chris

Chris, I find that sitting in my boat (lund Pro Guide tiller) and being a smaller guy, I need a 6' minimum to clear the port gunwale and electronics comfortably, so the 6'2" is right about where I like to be for an early season jigging rod.