I've been building some Batson Rainshadow Slow Jig rods lately. Because of the rod's woven graphite surface, the surface is irregular with hills and valleys and due to this condition, decals cannot be applied directly to the blank. I've tried various ways to create a smooth surface including wrapping a layer of thread down and then applying a leveling coat of epoxy. Once cured, I apply and burnish the decal as usual and apply a thin protective epoxy coat over the decal. My problem shows up sometimes weeks later with what appear to be some cloudy or milky looking areas under the decal. It looks like the decal's adhesive has lifted from the underlying epoxy. I'm using mid-weight ProKote epoxy. I know that some resins have a release agent or wax- could this be a possibility? Should I clean the epoxy surface with alcohol before placing the decal? Is the epoxy reacting to Batson's decal adhesive? Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

I can't imagine any wrap finish epoxy containing a "release agent" or any sort of wax (gel coat does). I wouldn't wipe the epoxy with any sort of solvent. But I would very lightly scuff the surface with some fine Scotchbrite. Then dust it off with a soft brush or gentle swipe with a paper towel.

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Daniel,
To resolve the issue, I apply two coats of epoxy finish to the area before doing anything else. Then, I use a hard backed piece of sand paper to level the surface. Use low tack blue masking tape to tack off the surface and go ahead and apply your decal to the area.
Then, after the rod is built apply your usual number of coats of epoxy to the thread wraps and also over the decal. Let dry and go use the rod.

As far as I am concerned, if one puts down a thread wrap on the rod, one is simply trading one rough surface for a different rough surface.

Nothing smoother than a polished surface of epoxy thread finish that is well cured and sanded starting with 220 grit paper down to 1200 grit paper.

It will be smoother than the "proveriable Babies Butt"

Take care

Good suggestions, I'll give them a try. Thanks

I don't think they use surfacing or release agents in wrapping epoxy. Polyester resin mostly uses them for finish coats like a gel coat so they can be sanded or used in molds and are not tacky. The epoxy we use should not have release agents. I have used textured or unsanded blanks before and have just epoxied over the area where the decal will be applied. Sometimes it requires a couple of coats or more to get a smooth surface and no sanding is required. If your decals are coming up at the edges you need to use Color Protectant (CP) over the top and at the edges. Use a couple of coats and let it dry between them.

[www.rodbuilding.org] (look for Larry Pollock's post)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/17/2022 04:41PM by Lynn Behler.

After applying the decal, I’ve had good luck with power wrapping thread over the top of the decal and leaving it for 24 hours. Haven’t had any lift up so far

I'm not experiencing an edge lifting issue.

I've had a few Batson decals where air has infiltrated between the decal and the backing sheet for whatever reason. when this happens there is always a cloudy area surrounding exposed area. When this occurs, no amount of burnishing will fix it. In my case the cloudiness is usually apparent before finish is applied. This won't likely help, but I felt like typing.