I have an ultralight trout rod that the diameter of the blank is much smaller than the diameter of the carbon fiber grips I ordered. After reading a heated discussion about tape arbors I was thinking of using epoxy to build up the diameter of the blank. Is this okay or recommended? Thank you

Epoxy is heavy. You can do better, particularly on an UL rod. Rigid foam arbors would be my choice.

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Tom, I'm worried the difference between the carbon fiber I.D. and the blank O.D. is in that "big but not too big" range where a foam arbor would disintegrate. I believe the I.D. is .375 and the O.D. is .270ish. I guess I should also state that this is mainly for the butt grip



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/30/2021 08:23PM by zachary guyach.

If you're talking the difference of the diameter of D or E size thread, then you're okay. Wrap the thread in a close spiral, smear with a gel type epoxy and "screw" the grip into place. You could even wrap up and back and have a double layer of thread and still be okay. More than that and I'd fall back on the arbor. I have bored them to a wall thickness of just 1/32nd inch and had no problems. But did this on a lathe which you may or may not have.

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Zachery,

I have used all of the different types of materials for an arbor

In order of preference for a thin arbor. Without a doubt - masking tape. I just use 1/2 inch masking tape

I place stripes of masking tape Each of the strips or rows of tape, are coated with a thin layer of epoxy.

Then, of course there is foam arbor - I first ream out the arbor to fit the rod blank.


Then, I use an arbor made of a sanded down piece of solid stock. With the arbor pushed onto the solid stock, I will chuck the solid stock into a variable speed drill. and hold the arbor on the solid stock against the belt sander while the sander is turned on.


By doing the shaping of the arbor off the blank and out of the grip, it is easy to get the foam arbor have a nice firm fit onto the rod blank a and a nice fit on the inside of the rod grip.

So, you have created jut a freckle on the rod grip with the foam grips.

Other wise, simply cut about 4-6 inch long strips into enough length such that when the tape is made tight on the rod blank - there will be no slippage, along with the epoxy, that makes a very very thin layer of glue both in between the tape rows that are shaped aroung the full 360 degree of space that will then be sealed by the epoxy over and in between the inside of the rod grip, and on the outide of the tape wraps that have been lapped over the rod blank.



Take care

REW



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/30/2021 11:36PM by roger wilson.

zachary,
As Tom suggested, foam arbors would be a good choice and the route taken by most. But I understand your dilemma of "big but not too big" with a diameter difference of ~.100in (.050 wall) causing “disintegrate” issues. If the foam arbors are epoxied to the grip and then reamed to fit the blank, all should be just fine. However, Tom may not have factored-in the actual ID to OD difference when alternatively suggesting utilizing thread (D or E) to build-up arbors. With D thread ~ .012in, two courses (layers) would be required = yes, it can be done but possibly a bit awkward. Simple <.125in tape arbors can produce very fine results IF attention is directed to encapsulating them with epoxy on both sides, but then that is subject to your observation of the “heated discussion” involving such; haphazardly performed = they are junk; properly executed = they are as good as anything else (obviously my opinion). If the weight of the epoxy is a major concern, one can always add micro spheres to the epoxy mix to drastically reduce the overall weight; but with only .050 thickness, the noticeable difference would be minimal at best.
In conclusion, try bonding foam arbors into the grip, allow to fully cure, and then ream to fit the blank. If they “disintegrate, then try plan B.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

In my opinion, the simplest, cheapest, as well as a very light option is to use a turn or two of dry wall tape strips. I tack them in place with a drop of super glue so they don’t walk when you apply epoxy and slide the grip in place. Two or three one inch strips should suffice. Dry wall type is a fiberglass mesh, so mostly air, and thus extremely light. The mesh allows the epoxy to bind to both the blank and the grip. I don’t use it for large gaps, for that I use polyurethane foam arbors. For what you want to do it will work great. I have used it this way on a lot of rods with out any failure issues.
Norm

For that amount of difference use masking tape dry wall tape and epoxy. A narrow band of tight fitting masking tape on each end as arbors to line everything up. Wrap of mesh drywall tape about every two inches between the masking. Then a gel epoxy like rod bond. This would be he gold standard.

Now the easy should be just fine route is just some masking tape arbors. Pack each edge of tape with epoxy to seal it coat the arbor surface slide grip on your done. Only did that on countless rods some of which are 25 plus years old and only one grip came loose. On that one failure the epoxy top coat of the blank came loose from the carbon. That coating was perfectly adhered to the inside of my masking tape arbors.

Zachary
The arbor is doable. They are tougher than they look.
Way to do it is to cut it into 4 equal pieces. Using a reamer coated in grit - don't use the sandpaper strip glued ones).
Do not glue into seat. You will be gluing directly to the blank.
Ream each section of the arbor to fit snugly where you want it on the blank. If arbor is shorter than the seat - be sure to allow for that and leave spaces.
BE SURE TO REAM SO THE ARBOR IS CONCENTRIC.

Glue the arbor to the blank. When cured - glue seat onto arbor. Bush with thread if not snug.
Herb
CTS

Wow there's a lot more replies than I thought I would get. Lots of really good options that I didn't think about. Thank you to everyone.

And I just read the Q&A in the newest rodmaker magazine and I can't believe this exact question is in there. What are the chances?

It's a common scenario that builders often run into.

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This thread is right on time. My Phenix Elixor blank is .299 and I was wondering about this...

Do as Norm advised with drywall tape, and it doesn't require a ton of glue inside the grip. Don't make it harder than it has to be.

Lynn,
If the needed arbor is thin, then don't make the arbor than you have to, simply use masking tape arbors and seal the arbors with epoxy glue when you assemble the rod. Nothing quicker or more effective than a masking tape arbor.

Take care

I’m a big fan of drywall tape for arbors. It’s a trick I learned about on this very forum (thanks to whoever originally posted this method). About two wraps seems ideal for making a strong bond without adding much weight. I think this is about the distance that is being filled here. The tape cuts to width very nicely when narrower shims are desirable. I haven’t done comparative weights, but it seems like this method would weigh less than solid masking tape with epoxy encapsulated ends. The mesh allows the epoxy to fill in, thus eliminating the need to generously donut the ends with goo.

Dry wall tape is less than half the weight of masking tape for the same length and width. Just in case anyone is interested.
Norm

Norman,
Yes --- dry dry wall tape is less than 1/2 the weight of masking tape for the same length.

However, what is the total finished weight of a dry wall arbor - coated with epoxy - compared to a masking tape arbor with epoxy sealing the masking tape.

I would guess that there will be a very tiny bit of weight difference, comparing the two finished products.

If I am wrong, I apologize for the mistake.

I guess right off the bat, we should have asked for a definition of "much smaller". (blank o.d. vs grip i.d.) Result would be much the same though.