Have a question about a saltwater fly rod build that I want to make as light as possible especially toward the tip. I am using recoil guides with minimal length wraps. Now, for additional weight savings in the top two sections I am thinking about using Permagloss instead of 2 part epoxy finish. I have done this for a couple of freshwater builds and it works great. However, this one is for the salt! The salt will find its way under the wraps as the guide feet gaps are not completely closed with 2-3 coats of Permagloss. Would that eventually make the titanium alloy corrode even if I soak the sections in freshwater after each use? Would that happen within next 5-10 years assuming 1-2 7-day saltwater trips per year?

No problems with the recoils. I will recommend the black pearl finish. I I am no expert but would no worry about recoils and salt, but the potential salt build up and the effect on the threads. I find the Pearl recoil tip top a bit heavy and you will save a little weight by finding another brand tip top, maybe more than skipping two part epoxy. Another thing, recoils require a bit longer wraps due to the longer foot than Snake Brand guides and the finished rod will weight more or less the same, from my experience, though recoils are the most saltwater proof.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/04/2021 03:16PM by Terje Bendiksby.

Titanium will not corrode in saltwater. It is, like most metals, susceptible to MIC (Microbiologically influenced corrosion).

Regardless of components I rinse my fly rods thoroughly with fresh water Before I put them in a bag or a tube. I have 30-year-old rods built for fresh water that have been used in salt water off-and-on during those years and are none the worse for it. But, if you forget to rinse just ONCE . . .

Tin saltwater because it doesn't corrode, is very durable, and strong. We used it at Lockheed Titanium develops a thin oxide coating that protects it from corrosion. ON a guide though, the titanium won't corrode; however, any moisture that gets under, and into the wraps can cause degradation of the epoxy, and/or wrapping thread, which can cause problems. I would advise unsing a low build Gen 4 tupe epoxy, wmaking sure to fill the tunnel completely to seal it from water entry. A couple of light layers won't add enough weight to make a difference.

Tight Lies and frisky fish

RJF

Regardless of guides used, I would apply as many coats of finish (permagloss in this case) as needed to completely encapsulate the thread wraps.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Roman,
I suggest that if you use your normal guide coating epoxy or perma gloss, you will likely not be able to tell the difference in actual use

Save your self to get extra product and techniques, when none are needed.

Aoso, for most folks, whether your use recoil or some other slightly heavier guide - they will not really notice a difference in using either rod.

Of course, the scale will tell the difference, but your body is not an electronic scale that can sense the difference of 2 grams of weight.

But, by all means, do what works well for you and your uses of the fishing rod.

Be safe

good info folks. I put black REC's on my salt 10 wt, never even thought about it. If you don't rise rods and reels after salt use. Its a you issue 101 care. The reels need more attention in my view than the rods. I also try to eliminate any tunnels or lack of coverage with epoxy, I went up the blank more than just covering the wraps.
I would notice if I was 2 grams light, just saying!