I just bought a Bushido BU-SWB3K8-2/30-50 Musky/Pike spinning rod blank and am looking for advice on what guide set I should use as well as the tip top. I intend to use it from a canoe or shore in the Boundary Waters of northern Minnesota this Spring. My primary targets are Lake Trout and Northern Pike. The rod blank is 8', two piece, Extra Heavy, Fast, and is rated for 30 to 50 lbs. How many, and what size guides do you recommend including the tip top? It's been thirty years since I've built a fishing pole. Thank you for your expertise.

Stump Lake.

Paul,
The Fuji KR Concept is (arguably) the best performing guide train available and is suitable for 50lb braid also. Don’t be afraid to use single foot guides; they are overly strong for the actual forces encountered while fighting larger fish.
Your chosen reel and braid size will determine the reduction train guide sizes; 2000-4000 reels with =< 30lb braid, use Fuji KL20H, KL10H, KL5.5M (or KL6M); for 4000-6000 reels with =<50lb braid, use KL25H, KL12H, KL5.5M (or KL6M). Initially place the stripper 19in-21in from the spool face and the choke guide (KB) 21in-23in further up the blank. Space the other 2 reduction guides to form a bullseye when sighting through them. Although the typical running guide train would consist of 1-3 KBs followed by KTs out to the tip top, I prefer to use as many KBs as the diameter of the blank will allow due to their robustness; in your case, the size of the blank should allow using KBs (in your size choice) all the way. As for the tip top, the tried-and true MN would be a good choice for sturdiness and security. The KG is another option but they are quite pricey.
The number of running guides will be determined while performing the 2-line static load test (the number of reduction guides and their spacing remains the same). For your 8ft rod, you will probably find a total of 10 guides (+ the tip top) to work best, but purchase an extra one just in case. The choke guide can be moved a bit further up the blank to accommodate a nice progressive guide spacing.
I have adopted this method from the veteran builder, Norman Miller, and it has worked perfectly every time.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Paul,
I am surprised you have not received more replies, especially from the Micro Wave proponents. What did you decide to do? I can’t personally email you because your address is hidden.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Hi Mark,
I sent you an email, let me know if you don't get it. I agree that building your own "SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE". It's been 25 years since I've built a fishing pole and I'm sure the materials have changed.

I was leaning towards the Fuji MN series. The two footed guide seemed strong. I've had trouble with the one footed types in the Boundary Waters getting bent. You strike me as someone who knows what they are talking about though. I will look at the KR Concept line. Perhaps the reduction in weight is worth using a one footed guide. In the examples you suggest, you use a 20 and 25 for the stripper size. This 8' Musky/Pike pole seems large and seemed to warrant a large stripper like a 40. Is this another weight thing? Is the "choke guide" the next one up from the stripper? As far as determining spacing, I will follow your "Miller" method. Thanks for sharing it.

I am looking forward to pairing the pole with a new reel. I am leaning towards a 5000 size reel. Any recommendations on reels I should consider?
Thanks for the advice,
Paul

If you are going to use braid which I assume you are you can get away with 25 as your stripper. Braid has so little memory you don't have large loops to choke down like you would with mono. Your choke guide is the first guide after your reduction train. Your reduction train would be the guides that step down to your runner guides. In Marks example, which I would follow, your reduction is the KL25 12 6, runners are however many KB guides you need. So the choke guide is the first KB after the KL6. For a tip I would suggest the MN series. They have a tang that you can over wrap for a little added security.

As for single foot guides fish won't cause any problems. I have several heavy rods that have accounted for countless 25 pound plus carp. All single foot guides. Never has a fish bent one. Now mishaps are another story. I would suggest making yourself a rod scabbard to prevent said mishaps. Thin wall PVC pipe a bit longer than the to pieces of the rod cap one end. Cut a slot to accommodate the leg of the reel. You can slide the rod in reel hangs below the tube. Weight is a concern I am sure. So drill a a bunch of 3/4 to 1 inch holes. You can easily remove 50 percent or more of the pvc via the holes an still maintain structural integrity. I would not droll any holes on the underside third so guides wont snag on the holes.

As for reel can't offer specif recommendations. I would be looking at some of the old school workhorses such as penn. They might not look as good as a lot other reels but they are bulletproof and designed for big fish and hard use.

Out of curiosity, why a spinning reel on such a heavy blank?

My experience would show that a baitcasting reel would outperform a spinning reel in that blank's line and weight range, by a wide margin.

Paul,
Yes, I got your email and replied.
While the Fuji MN GUIDES may be good for conventional casting setups, they are TOO low for a spinning setup. Stick with the KL-Hs and you will be very pleased. The MN TIP TOPS however, are a good, stout choice for your application.
You are certainly correct that a single-foot guide is not as strong / strout as a double-foot guide, at least as rough-handling and abuse are concerned; one cannot get something for nothing / weighing the pros and cons / compromise requires consideration here. To me, attempting to use MN guides for a spinning rod would be like trying to saddle a bull = it certainly can be done but it will be a rough and unpredictable ride! The little amount of extra care required of the rod will be minimal compared to the outstanding casting and fishing fighting abilities with the KL-Hs!!!
While I am certainly no expert on reels, a decent 4000 size should suit your purposes.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Thankyou Michael, Joel and Mark,
This year's Springs trip convinced me I needed to beef up my arsenal. I do own and like an Abu Garcia bait caster but I think I'm a better caster with my spinning equipment and I like the reel on the bottom. I have a 1000 and 3000 size spinning reel so I'm considering 4000 or 5000 sized reels.

Thanks for talking me out of the MN guides. I wondered how guide could serve both masters. KL it is, if a guide gets bent too bad, I'm more than capable of replacing it.

I bought cork rings and expect them yet this month. I plan on using epoxy paste to glue it all together. Next, I have to find a reel seat. Fuji has some that are designed for comfort I'm considering.
Thankyou for your interest in my project.
Paul

Hi Mark,
I read "Theory of the KR Concept" [anglersresource.net] . You and it helped me decide on a guide set. I ordered KL 25H, 12H, & 7M, six KB 7, 1 KT 7 and MG 8 for the tip top. A new Penn Conflict 5000 is on its way as well. I should be able to catch a fish with that. Happy New Year everybody.
Paul