What's a good inexpensive way to label or make notes on ur rod. I see a lot of references to decals which honestly seems a bit costly based on what I've found so far. Considering all I want to do is make a simple note on the blank to identify it as a a 7'3" M Mod-Action rod/blank. Are decals really the best for this. Are there round stencils one could use to paint then seal with epoxy. Is there something I could use found at a local hobby store that might be commonly used by those who build model plains, cars, or trains.

I wanted to try and make my own, but making a white or silver decal with a home printer is another complication in of itself and can also get expensive.

There is some info here from 10 years ago or so about using your color printer and some sheet media to make your own, some that were done were beautiful to behold. There was an article or two in RodMaker magazime back than.

Ink jet decals fade terribly. You don't know what the quality of ink is, whether it's UV resistant or not. Most likely, not. I don't know about laser.

The problem with writing on a blank is that the media you use to write with most likely will run when epoxy is applied. I've struggled with this and found that using india ink to write with, then using a spray-on clear gloss quick dry to seal it, properly masked to control where it goes, to seal it before epoxy works the best.

I'm looking for others to respond, because I'm not totally pleased with my solution.

Hello Tony.

Here is a list of articles in RodMaker about inscriptions.

12/6 Inscription Diamond. By Randy Duket. 18
16/5 Inscriptions, A Foundation For… Better Hand Inscriptions. By Tom Kirkman & Dave Mayer. 22
3/4 Inscriptions, Fixing Mistakes (in the area). 22
2/3 Inscriptions, For Your Custom Rod. 10
2/3 Inscriptions, Gel & Paint Pens. 12
13/5 Inscriptions, Hidden in Plain Sight (Invisible Ink Identification Markings). By Tom Kirkman. 10
2/3 Inscriptions, Labels, Computer Generated . 15
3/4 Inscriptions, Labels; Metallic Colors On An Ink Jet? 24
2/3 Inscriptions, Pen & Ink. 11
2/3 Inscriptions, Printers, Dye Sublimation . 18
2/3 Inscriptions, Transfer Lettering. 13
2/3 Inscriptions, Useful Hints For Making Better Rod Inscriptions. 19

If you don't have any of these articles, I agree with Michael about once inscribing you need to use a sealer or maybe CP.

Good Luck.


Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

I use Dr Ph Martins iridescent calligraphy ink, in gold, silver, or black to write names and rod info on the blank. I use a fine tip speedball nib and nib holder. This ink will NOT RUN after applying epoxy or even Permagloss. You can buy the ink and nibs at a hobby store such as Micheals or Hobby Lobby. If you make a mistake just wipe it away with DNA on a paper towel. Does a great job.
Norm

Tony,
Many hobby stores like Hobby Lobby or Michaels sell rub-on lettering, but then there is the issue of keeping them straight. I have never tried them so cannot comment on how they react to thread finish = test first. I have also not attempted printing my own because I simply purchase my decals.
You must have been looking in all the wrong places if you could not find affordable decals. For $5.00, delivered, Decal Connection can make anything you want! That is probably less than a sheet of rub-on lettering, will certainly require less time and the results are perfect. If you have a logo, DC can print a sheet with 30-40 logos which lowers the cost / each even more. Even for a cheap bastard like me, that is very reasonable.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

We've been using this: [www.molotow.com] Works better when my wife does the writing.

I use Speed Ball acrylic ink and a nib and quill for the lettering. My wife has a wonderful hand when it comes to lettering and she does all of the lettering. 90% of the time we use white ink. It is quite visible on virtually all darker colored rod blanks.

Take care

I like doing it on but caps. I’m mostly building with CFX grips. They all feature a 27mm OD butt, if you remove the tenon or stub. There are Seaguide and Matagi butt caps available in 27mm. Voodoo Rods sells their great marbling pigments, which don’t require pouring off toxic solvents (why are people messing with model building paint when a sponsor is selling a tremendous range of products that don’t need to be detoxified?). One can pigment a butt cap insert, and then label on top. Then, you can add your favorite rod finish over that and turn with the guides.

Decal Connection $5 and done and they turn out great. I also use water slide sheets on my printer also works.

"I use Dr Ph Martins iridescent calligraphy ink, in gold, silver, or black to write names and rod info on the blank." Right on, Norman. It performs as Norman says, can take epoxy right over it without any other treatment, even after only a couple hours drying time. I think Roger has recommended it in the past, too. One advantage it has over some options, like Testors paint, is that it flows through the nibs very well making writing with it very easy and controllable.

The other Dr Ph Martin india inks, the ones not labeled "iridescent," will not necessarily take epoxy without smearing. Look for the term "iredescent."

We have the ink and nibs mentioned above, just never got the hang of the whole nib thing. Once we tried the Molotow Chrome that was it. Do wish they'd have a white that worked as well as the chrome, but haven't tried anything other than chrome. Cleans off with alcohol.

One thing that may help when having trouble with the nibs-they can be too sharp and tend to stick on epoxy at times. Dress the tips with very fine sandpaper to round them off a little.