Been years since I used anything by Fuji. Since I got back into things a couple years ago I tried Pac Bay minimas and really really liked them. All my rods have been built with them. Was after the least weight and most sensitive rod I could get. The minimas have held up great surprised actually as they look a little fragile. Build I am planning might see some harder use and sensitivity and finesse are never going to be a requirement for the rod. Thinking of going with ceramic rings specifically fuji. Just wondering whats what with the current product line and what to expect from the ring materials and frame finishes. Will be running these on a med lite spinning with 8 to 10 pound braid casting smaller crankbaits.

I use Fuji KLH exclusively on all spin, and for what you are intending I would use KLH 16-8-5.5M followed by a KB4, then KT4's to the Arowana tiptop. Similar rods of mine weigh about 3.6 oz with a size 17 DPSSD seat. For max sensitivity go titanium. All their finishes are very corrosion resistant. If you think you might want to go heavier on line in the future use KLH20-10-5.5M. I doubt if you could tell the difference in sensitivity or weight.

It is my opinion that any ring material will work for guides with any kind of line. But I use SIC for tiptops which get the most abuse from the line.

Michael,
It is fairly well known that I am a huge Fuji fan although I have used Minima M guides and, as you, liked them. I agree with you that their lighter weight comes at the sacrifice of robustness. Fuji KLHs with Alconite rings will be a very good choice.
Mr. Danek offered very sound advice with all of his suggestions and I agree except for minor personal preferences. Although I utilize a KL 16H, 8H, 5.5M reduction train for my UL builds with <2000 size reel, consider Mr. Dansk’s suggestion of a KL20H, 10H, 5.5M for more versatility just in case a larger reel or line might be employed down the road. I prefer size 5 (or possibly even 6s) runners just to make it easier for my old eyes to thread the line through them. I also use a LGAT tip top (I can buy 4 of them for the cost of only one K2KGST (Arowana) and I am confident the Alconite is more than up to the task.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

No argument, Mark. Just to add, though, the poster was after "the most sensitive rod I can get," which would lead one to smaller runners.

Michael X 2,
I read MR. Sutheimer’s post to be that he used the Minimas when “ Was after the least weight and most sensitive rod I could get”. But his new, planned build “... might see some harder use and sensitivity and finesse are never going to be a requirement for the rod.” But maybe I misinterpreted it. One way or the other, size 4 runners are common if not the norm, except for those of us with fossilized eyes. Additionally, I have enough difficulty wrapping size 5 runners with my abused hands.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

For the rod you are planning on building I would use KL16H, KL8H and KL5.5M for the reduction train with KB/KT runners. I usually use size 4.5 runners, but a either size 4 or 5 runner will also work very well. According to my conversations with people at Anglers Resource, size 5 runners appears to be the most popular size. The difference in weight between a Fuji KR guide set and the Minima M and F guide set is almost entirely due to the reduction train. The running guides are pretty close in weight, so you will still be keeping the tip section pretty light. For the most part I find the Alconite rings more than sufficient, even for the tip top. I have used both the stainless and titanium guides; and like both. However, there is certainly a big price difference between them, but to be honest I have a very difficult time determining if there is an actual performance difference. I think you will be quite happy with your rods performance using the Fuji KR guides.
Norm

Mark is correct in his interpretation. Rod is going to be exclusively for small cranks and swimbaits. As I figured can't go wrong with any if the current Fuji offerings. Had the guide train pretty much figured as the guide sizes suggested are basically what I have been using with the minimas. One question on the runner sizing. Do the rings run smaller than the minmas? Minimas have no insert whereas the fuji do. Leaning towards 5s as rod will probable see some freezing weather use. That and I am darn near blind some days. Small guides bad eyes and limp braid not a good combo.

Being older, my eyes aren't what they used to be, as well. I don't use leaders so I have no connecting knots to worry about passing so I go between 4.5's and 5's for running guides. The 5's are easier to pass line through when stringing up the rod, but then I think I only have to do that maybe once or twice a year.

If you have trouble threading your line through the guides get a Fuji Speed Threader. It really works well and you can thread your line blind folded. I give these away when I build a rod for someone. Very handy. Here is a video by Jim Ising on how to use one.
[m.youtube.com]
Norm



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/30/2021 11:31AM by Norman Miller.

Norman, that thing is slick as heck. Not only does it look like it works great for threading guides, seeing it used to get line through a casting reels line guide is a must have. Thanks for posting that link. I just added one to my Mud Hole cart.

This also would come in handy when doing a 2 line stress test. At least the way I do it.

Any Fuji ceramic material currently sold has a large hardness margin over the hardest substances that are going to attach themselves to braided line. I like Fuji Torzite, but only use it on the most premium builds. I have never experienced a SIC ring failure but now shy away after reading tales of brittleness related failures. Alconite is such a solid line-up for it’s price. Seaguide has their silicon nitride ceramic rings in titanium and 316ss frames. It’s a very strong industrial ceramic that is also far harder than diatoms and metals. I find the designs and quality really good with the price points representing great value.

I'm a stickler for weight and in your situation, I personally would use Torzite 3.5 runners. A lot of very high grade Japanese rods use them - I am talking some rods up to $1K each.

Trouble with 3.5s is this rod will see winter use and guides icing up is a issue. Won't take long to have problems in sub 20 degree Fahrenheit.