I have a MHX rod peel and stick spec decal that I applied and it looks horrible.....I would like to remove it......decal is applied on top of Pro Kote thread finish that was allowed to cure for 24 hrs. Have not put a second coat over the decal. What would be suggested to remove it without harming the base thread finish?

If your sticker is like most that I use (and screw up) you should be able to pick at the corner with a fingernail, and get enough loose to grab. Then fold it over itself and slowly pull it off. If gummy stuff is left behind try rubbing it off with your finger and/or paper towel. If that doesn't work use alcohol or goo-off or something like that. Before recoating make sure the surface is free from contaminants, with Windex or similar, then dry wipe vigorously to be sure it's clean.

This is going to be very delicate ! If you are able to peel it off, alcohol will not remove any residual adhesive, and a solvent that will, may also effect the underling epoxy. If it comes off clean, you should be able apply another decal over the same place. If does not come off clean, you best move would be to remove all the epoxy and start over.

After rereading your post, I am not clear to whether there is thread under the decal if so, I hope it comes off clean!

just clear thread finish under the decal...no thread....and no finish over the decal....are you better off when you have to remove a decal if you have applied the decal to a bare blank?

Rick,
I have not had to remove a decal before; just lucky I guess. At this point, you do not have much to lose in trying to peel off the decal and both Michael and Phil offer good suggestions. From past experience in similar circumstances, the key is to peel the sticker off SLOWLY, as in EXTREMELY SLOWLY. This will allow the adhesive to stretch a bit and hopefully help to pull itself off the blank cleanly; but you will just have to try. If it does not come off entirely clean, try “dabbing” the remaining adhesive with the sticky side of masking tape, possibly more aggressive duct tape. But there is certainly the possibility of the tape leaving behind a residue of its own and possibly causing fish eyes in the following coat of epoxy. If there is still decal adhesive left, then “drastic times deserve drastic measures” even though it may go against what 95% other builders believe and say, and I actually agree but... I agree with Phil that “alcohol will not remove any residual adhesive, and a solvent that will, may also affect the underlying epoxy”. Acetone will be the best bet to soften and remove the adhesive. It may dull the, somewhat, fresh epoxy base coat as well, but that will be hidden under the following coat of epoxy. The thing to remember is that epoxy and acetone are compatible. To remove the maximum amount of residue or adhesive rather than simply smearing it around, pull a strip of rag or paper towel moistened with acetone across the blank in the opposite direction of the wrapper or dryer; one pass per strip. The contaminants will be carried away as a fresh portion of the strip is introduced.
Good luck!!! Let us know how it goes.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

I don't agree that total removal of the epoxy is required if something is needed to remove the gummy stuff. If the "something" is adequately cleaned off then there is no problem. And why go the total removal route until you know you need to? Best case scenario is you get a good second coat. Worst case scenario you don't, so total removal is necessary. But don't jump to that scenario until you have to.

Even if the second coat has some defects, they may be fixable with sandpaper and another coat.

Don't go the hard way until there is no option.

I pulled the decal off by getting a fingernail under a corner and then very slowly pulled the decal off by folding the decal over the top of itself. Like I thought there was some adhesive left behind....I then used friction from my thumb to remove adhesive....then a wet paper towel under my thumb...followed by dry paper towel under my thumb...then finally the polishing cloth that came with the rod. All visible adhesive was removed where the decal was and the rod looks really good. Where the decal was located is still a little tacky which makes me think there is still some non visible adhesive. Mr. Danek you suggested possibly using Windex....is now the time for Windex? Or will that harm the clear base coat? Really appreciate the responses so far. Thank You

Windex won't hurt it, but just try a little alcohol first. We are often told to use a little alcohol around the decal edges after application to remove any excess glue, and applying a coat of color preserver over the decal before finishing. This sometimes helps to keep the decal edges from lifting when finish is applied. However you do it, they're a pain. Once in a while blank maker will even provide instructions. If you're lucky.

Again, alcohol will NOT remove adhesive! Neither will Windex.

Rick,
If you feel ANYTHING AT ALL, there is obviously residue, contamination, left. This is one of those “drastic times deserve drastic measures” situations. Follow my predescribed “dragging a acetone moistened rag” method and you will be good to go. If you are hesitant or have questions, feel free to email me directly and I will give you my phone number so I can help you step-by-step.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Phil, with all due respect, why do they tell us to do this?

Lynn, who tells one to do this? Alcohol is not an adhesive solvent. I have never seen the recommendation to use alcohol on a decal.

Phil, I will honestly make an attempt to find places where I might have seen or read this advice and post it. I have seen it more than 1 or 2 times. In the meantime Batson and Mudhole come to mind. If I've suggested innocent parties I apologize.

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Rubbing alcohol, according to these sights will remove sticky residue. The last one also states that for stubborn residue, GooGone, , and WD40 will remove the residue. Then, the oily film they leave behind needs to be removed with something like Windex. I would think that Dawn dish soap, mixed with hot water would work well. Follow the dish soap with fresh, clean water if you go that option.

Tight Lies and frisky fish

RJF

I chose to use Acetone on a paper towel and I believe I was successful....clear finish is not tacky nor did the acetone cloud the clear base coat.....all that remains is to apply the decal properly this time, put second coat over it and cross my fingers. I want to thank everyone for their input on this issue. This forum is unbelievably terrific for information in this obsessive, compulsive hobby. Thanks again, the information received is priceless

Phil, I have looked for the info I mentioned above and can't find it recommended anywhere. The Batson instruction sheets I do have say to wipe over the decal surface with nothing but Iso alc. Glue residue is to be scraped, picked from around the edges with a toothpick. That doesn't mean I didn't see it done or read about it being done somewhere. It just means I got tired of looking. Lol Sir, you have gotten the best of me!!

There is one more method that is very effective but does not attack the typical rod finish or the finish on a painted blank.

That is to wipe down the affected area with mineral spirits. Mineral spirits are a petroleum derivative that is commonly used by painters when working with oil based paints for clean up and brush cleaning.

It is also an effective remover for a petroleum based adhesive which is the typical base on many items including decals.

So, wipe down the area with Mineral spirits to remove all traces of the adhesive and then wipe down the same area with denatured alcohol to remove all traces of mineral spirits.

Best wishes