Are there any videos for properly setting up the thread carriage on the Alps Power wrapper, and setting the proper tension. My sled moves very freely, and I believe it's set up correctly but I have significant problems with the wrapping thread jumping backwards with relation to the direction I'm wrapping in. This causes me to have to unwind thread, correct, and rewind. My eyes aren't what they once were, and I've caught mistakes when I though the wrap was complete, causing me to have to cut off the wrap and start over. This is a royal pain, and time consuming. I watch videos of people getting perfect high-speed wraps. It looks so easy. I'm still wrapping faster than by hand, and applying Gen 4 is a breeze. But any wisdom on setting up/positioning the thread carriage would be greatly appreciated.

Tight Lies and frisky fish

RJF

I am a very educated dummy. Well, I figured out the thread carriage issue, made a few test wraps, and the wrapper wraps fast and clean. Yay! I put the second section from the butt onto the but section, after wrapping on the stripper guide and epoxying the wrap yesterday afternoon. It turns out that I'm a hair or two too close to the joint,. The epoxy on the guide foot keeps the two sections from joining tightly. When assembled, as it is now, another 16th, of an inch movement toward the butt, and it would be perfect. I should have placed the guide on the second section up from the butt, as that section slides onto the butt section. So what's the best way to remove cured Gen 4 from a carbon rod blank, sand paper, emery cloth, a fie tooth bastard file?

Tight Lies and frisky fish

RJF

Found a couple Toutube videos showing how to remove the epoxy and blank. It doesn't look so hard. We'll see.

Tight Lies and frisky fish

RJF

Well I just spent 2 hours trying to remove that stripping guide. It's still not off. I followed the directions from the Youtube video, where the guy uses a one sided razor blade to remove the epoxy from the top of the guide foot only, to protect the blank. He the was able to capture some thread and just easily peel away the remaining epoxy. Let me tell you, Gen 4 is tough stuff. I couldn't peel away anything. Even after cutting away all thread, and Gen 4 from the guide feet, I coudn't so much as budge that stripper guide. Talk about good penetration! I even tried mild heat, but to no avail. I may have to call on my son, the Dental Surgeon. He has superb hand-eye coordination, great vision, and some very good tools. I don't want to damage the blank. If I were more limber, I'd be kicking myself. Anybody want to come to my Son's house and remove a stripping guide? LOL.

Tight Lies and frisky fish

RJF

Robert,
You seem to be answering your own questions = good for you! Otherwise, send me airfare to-and-from LAX and I’ll help you lol.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Robert,
With respect to removing wrapping thread and cured epoxy, the simple answer is heat.

Use GENTLE heat to soften the epoxy.

Remember, not so much heat that you damage the blank. As you add a bit of heat, keep checking with your finger nail. When you can slightly dent the epoxy, you are in a position to scrape it off and clean up the blank.

If you don't heat the epoxy that is well cured, it is going to be a long day and lots of frustration.

Over the years, I have stripped a lot of rods that needed rebuilding. Normally, it only takes me a short time to completely strip everything off the blank to be able to start everything from scratch. i.e. guides, tip top, reel seat, and grips.

Best wishes.

w hy would a company make a rod finish that tough to remove..could it be an epoxy glue..i would not use it again, that,s for sure.

Tried the mild heat on the cured Gen 4. It did nothing. I spent 3 more hours today, and finally got the guide, and all epoxy off of the blank. Didn't damage he blank. To hide the cosmetic imperfections left over, I joined the two sections together, and laid a clean thread wrap about 2 inches back from the section joint, to a1/16thof an inch before the joint. Then I
mixed up another ml of epoxy, adding red coloring powder to the epoxy, and coated the wrap. You would think it was there simply to demark the section end, and it looks great. I desearve a chocolate silk pie (woe is me, dietary restrictions forbid chocolate from my diet). I guess a sugar free A&W root beer will have to suffice. In any case, yahoo!

Tight Lies and frisky fish

RJF