Blank is a BA3K9/12-25 going to be a spinning rod using either a VR150 or a 5000 Certate and 30lb braid. I've got a Lamjglass 9' I had someone build for me before I started building rods. It used a double foot stripper size 40 then single feet 30, 25, 20, 16, 12, 10, + tip 10. Guides are fuji with a black frame and an alconite insert. Couldn't find these guides anymore. Assuming they're discontinued.

I'd prefer a set up like this with larger guides. I built a Point Blank and Mudhole mislead me hugely by giving me the wrong KL guides and incorrect spacing. Jim Ising was nice enough to steer me straight and I stripped and rebuilt it with the Kl-H and KR layout and it works beautifully. But I ended up with an epoxy stained blank on a 300 dollar build which I wasn't to happy with MH over that!! So I will refrain from ever asking an employee of Mudhole anything other then to fill an order.

Which is why I joined this forum in the hopes of learning from all of you and not making mistakes like that again. I'm going to tape test all my rods before wrapping from now on.

So back to where I started. What guides and layout would you all recommend that closely matches what I've got on my Lamiglass. Either Alconite or SiC in a stainless frame will fit the budget. Will be throwing flairhawks and swimbaits with it. I'm sure one of the builders here has alot of experience building snook jigging rods. Thank you in advance for your replies.

If you like the Fuji setup on your other rod, do this one with the KLH's also. I'm sure Jim Ising gave you the info from their software, which I always use and don't even bother to test cast any more.

Keep in mind the Fuji Corrosion Control guides with slim SIC rings are very much saltwater capable and pretty cost effective.

We are probably going to disappoint you as I doubt anyone would suggest you use something like what you have on your Lamiglas. You don't need seven different size guides. Most would use four, five as a maximum.

As usual pick your smallest guide based upon any knots you need to cast through the guide train. Pick your biggest guide based upon reel spool diameter. With a nine foot rod you "could" keep the knots/swivel outside the guide train and go as small as you wish. A 5000 reel would probably equate to a size 30 butt guide but Daiwa's tend to run larger than standard so best to measure.

Jim helped you out once and you have seen the results. Maybe you should reach out to him again.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

I haven't tried the KR concept on a big rod yet. And found mixed reviews on using it for surf/snook style 9' rods doing research. Like to go with a more traditional larger ring set up like on my Lamiglass. Just not sure which guide model/style will fit that layout. I can't find the Fuji guides that were used for my Lami anywhere online. Hoping someone on the forum has had alot of experience building snook jig rods as they are alot different then the majority of inshore rods.

Thank you for that info. And the rod was built for me by a guy in his 70s who's set in his ways. And he picked the guides out. And it casts a mile and works great turning 35" plus snook. Only reason I mention that set up is it works well.

But may consider trying a KR layout. And the Daiwa Certate is more like a 4k Daiwa spinner pretty similar to the VR150. So a KL-30 should work well. I agree no reason for that many size guides as well. And I never cast my knots through guides. So I was thinking maybe size 8 running guides. Easier to run your line through at 3am in the dark when needed.

I will reach out to Jim. Just wanted to get a collective of different ideas and thought processes and go from there.

Have you personally used KL-H guides on a larger snook/striper rod? Will be throwing up to a 2oz bucktail and casting really hard at times.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/22/2021 04:39PM by Tyler Reinert.

Whether it's a 7 foot rod or a 9 foot rod is immaterial. It's all about the first three guides, the reduction train, then it's just same size runners all the way out. The reduction train doesn't care about the length of the rod, It depends on the reel and the line.

Thank you Michael that is what I've come to learn from speaking with Jim and reading everything I could find on anglersresource.
Just wasn't sure what route to go on a longer rod. I may end up going with the KR concept. I was wondering is there a double foot stripper guide that fits in the KR concept system?

We put a ton of pressure on these fish around bridge structure. 30lb braid FG to 50 Fluorocarbon and very tight drags. Many times heavy current under full/new moon. Do you think it will hold up?

I don't know why you think you need a double foot guide for the stripper. The guide stresses are most likely higher in the middle of the rod, yet you are not considering a double foot there. Just use the software for the reduction train with KLH and then one size to the tip.

Longer rod means nothing to the reduction guide design. It's all about the reel and line for the reduction guides. . Then, all one size to the tip.

I'm new to rodbuilding. Not sure what exactly I need and I'm not set on any one configuration. The rod was built by a friend who's been building rods 40+ years. Was just going off how he built a rod for me years ago that's landed hundreds of big snook and I've been really happy with. Don't know why he used a double foot for the stripper. I just know the rod works.

We had some serious issues trusting mudhole on what guides to use. It resulted in two 300 dollar builds having to be started over with new guide trains leaving us with 2 extra sets of guides and epoxy scarred blanks.

Therefore I'm trying to find someone who can say definitively what guides they've used many times for the exact purpose of snook jigging.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/22/2021 06:53PM by Tyler Reinert.

Tyler, rods are a little like lures. Many are made to catch fishermen. When I first came here I had to un-learn what I "thought" a rod was supposed to look like. Florida salt water guys are very resistant to change.

So you can go old school if you want. Fuji MNSG guides have always did the deed, and they still will. But you don't need double foot guides and you don't need under wraps. Lord knows it took some time for me to get away from that mind set and I'm still stuck in it for conventional reel builds. It is your rod and if that is what you want look in the library for the 27X article. That and the two line static guide placement will tell you all you need to know and you will never need to ask about guides again.

Guides and rods don't fail from fishing, they fail from abuse. You know if you fall in that category. I'm hoping you don't from your taste in reels. If you were using a Penn 704Z I wouldn't bother wasting my breathe.

My advice, Fuji KLH and don't look back. Might add that I think you may be under gunned with that blank.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Tyler, your 9’ Lamiglass had what is commonly known as a cone of flight (COF) guide train. It’s an old fashion set up that uses large ringed guides to gradually choke the line coils coming from the reel. These large ringed guides added unnecessary weight to the rod and didn’t do a great job at choking the line coils. The most modern guide train designed for braided line is the KR concept, which uses high frame small ring reduction guides to more rapidly choke the line coils to smoothly feed the line to low profile running guides, which are all the same size. A major advantage to the KR concept is that it significantly reduces overall guide weight, especially in the tip section.This makes the rod more responsive due to a quicker recovery rate. This in turn helps with casting distance, as well as sensitivity. What does high frame small ring guides mean? For example, the KL25H KR guide is about the same height as size 40 SV or MN guide used on your Lamiglass rod. So going to a KR concept does not really change the butt guide height from the blank but really does reduce its weight. The KR reduction train guides are grouped according to height for best performance depending on reel and line size. In your case, a KL25H based reduction train (25H, 12H, and 5.5M) would work fine using KB/KT runners Size 5.5 or smaller. If you don’t want to use these small runners you can change the third reduction guide to a 6M or 7M, which will allow you to size 6 or 7 KB/KT runners. [anglersresource.net]
You can certainly use the KR GPS at Anglers Resource to get a tentative guide placement. I would probably use 10 to 11 guides total.
[anglersresource.net]
If you don’t want to use the KR concept you can go to a New Guide Concept, not as much weight savings but still better than the COF.
Norm

Thank you for the info Norman. And you are right about me having to unlearn what I think a rod is supposed to look like. And yes I take very good care of my rods and reels. I have an air conditioned room that I store all my tackle in and don't abuse my set ups.

I think I'll go the KR route. I'm happy with how a point blank rod came out with Jim's guidance recently.
The software gave me a great set up that needed very little adjustment.

And as far as the blank being undergunned I'm helping a friend build the rod for himself. And he's had the blank in his hands at American tackle but I'll take a second look at it and make sure it's got enough power. He's already got a SW80M-MHX that's a 15-40 built into a casting rod with a Lexa 400. So he's wanting something a little lighter that can handle some smaller swimbaits and 1oz flairhawks. But on occasion can throw a 2oz.

Thank you for all the help from all replies I've gotten. Got an email back from Jim saying to go with the KR concept as well. So looks like that will be the route we go.

KR can do just about any rod, biggest I have done is my own 14'6 that can throw 8 + bait;