Hello everyone, this is my first thread so forgive me if Im asking repeated questions. I’d like to start off by saying even though I’m new to this site, I have been reeding these forums for a couple years now and there is some serious talent on here. So thank you for all the great discussions and info. Im a bass fisher and got into this custom rod stuff by accident last year after playing with a friends rods he built. Prior to that I had only wrapped some guides occasionally. I built my first rod last winter and did not take most members advice to start with a cheap blank. I ordered point blank pb691mlxf blank, fuji seat, and titanium fuji guides using the KR software on anglers resource. It actually turned out great and Is my favorite spinning rod by far. However, I got a bit over confident and did a casting rod build next with an nfc mb 736 blank that had 1” trimmed off the butt. I didn’t cut it, I got it in trade like that. It turned out ok, but I learned quickly the components can make or break a nice blank. I don’t like the reel seat I chose, the handle length, and I cheaped out on the guides. My guide placement also was not very good. So this leads me to my question.

Since I’m using the fuji RV-6 stripper guide this time, is there specific spacing guides or recommendations for spacing, or do I just load test the blank and move them like I would normally do? Is there a recommended distance from the reel to the RV-6?

I have a Point Blank 7’3” 731mhxf and I want to make a nice jig/ bottom contact rod for bass. I have talked to Kyle Welcher some and I’m going to copy his PB731mhxf builds. This will be a lightweight minimalist build with no fancy accents. Flourocarbon only. Fuji sk2 split seat with the sk2 2.75” cork grip and bgk485 butt grip, 10 3/8” from butt end to the rear of seat. I spoke with Jim Ising yesterday and I think I’m settled on the guide train, 1 RV-6 stripper, 3 KB#4 guides, 7 KT#4 runners, and a KG4.5 tip. All titanium SIC. I believe this guidetrain will make a nice light rod but if anyone has any doubts or recommendations I’m all ears. I am thinking about adding weight at the butt for a tip up feel depending on how it turns out. This will be my most expensive build besides my spinning rod so any advise is appreciated.

What you are proposing makes good sense to me. I caution you to put the RV on in the right direction. I did it wrong on one rod, and while i think it casts just fine, it bugs me. i'll have to turn it around one of these days.

From the reel level wind guide to the RV should be about 19 and the rest located by the two line stress test on the Anglers resource site. Try it taped on at a few dimensions around 19.

I add weight for balance NEVER. Your choice, but as you are doing, best to try it. And if you add weight, tape it on before you do anything permanent.

I'm not sure why everyone seems to talk about the distance from the butt to the reel seat when the important dimension is from the butt to the reel. Check your ergonomics going from tip up to down in the clothing you will be wearing most of the time to be sure the butt does not hang up on the elbow crook. I design all my rods for ergonomics, not balance. Many disagree. It's your rod being built for you.

You are going to really like the Point Blank. I have two my self and have built two for my son. They all are very sensitive, light for their power, and very versatile. I screwed up seriously one time and found out they are very tough, too.

You can’t go wrong placing the RV6 about 19 to 20” in front of the reel. The PB731MHXF is an extremely nice blank, I have built several of them. With your handle length you will not need to worry about balance, in fact, because of the way they are built it’s very difficult not to have Point Blanks balance. For my PB731MHXF I used 10 guides total, not including the tip top, but used size 4.5 KB/KT runners. Using the two line static test will give you very a good guide layout. I spiral wrapped one of my PB731MHXF and it performs great, just as well as the one wrapped traditional. For the handle I used the NFC soft touch carbon fiber split grip with Fuji ECM reel seat. Very light, comfortable, and basically bullet proof. Good luck with your build.
Norm

Michael Danek Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> What you are proposing makes good sense to me. I
> caution you to put the RV on in the right
> direction. I did it wrong on one rod, and while i
> think it casts just fine, it bugs me. i'll have
> to turn it around one of these days.
>
> From the reel level wind guide to the RV should be
> about 19 and the rest located by the two line
> stress test on the Anglers resource site. Try it
> taped on at a few dimensions around 19.
>
> I add weight for balance NEVER. Your choice, but
> as you are doing, best to try it. And if you add
> weight, tape it on before you do anything
> permanent.
>
> I'm not sure why everyone seems to talk about the
> distance from the butt to the reel seat when the
> important dimension is from the butt to the reel.
> Check your ergonomics going from tip up to down in
> the clothing you will be wearing most of the time
> to be sure the butt does not hang up on the elbow
> crook. I design all my rods for ergonomics, not
> balance. Many disagree. It's your rod being
> built for you.
>
> You are going to really like the Point Blank. I
> have two my self and have built two for my son.
> They all are very sensitive, light for their
> power, and very versatile. I screwed up seriously
> one time and found out they are very tough, too.

Thanks Michael! I will definitely make sure everything is on right. These guides are expensive so I plan on taping it all up a few times. On my spinning rod I taped the guides and used a dab from a hot glue gun to fully assemble it and feel it before I did anything permanent. I’ll try the 19” spacing out. I wish I would of used this guidetrain setup on my nfc blank. I figured a good blank wouldn’t mind cheap guides but it’s noticeable. The reel seat I chose is what I really dislike. The blank is nice! I went by a random guide spacing chart for the rod length, lesson learned there.

Me saying adding the weight for balance, I guess that’s my inexperience with rod building. I’ve read that that’s often not recommended, but at the same time I have never felt this blank assembled so… I was thinking maybe use a heavier winding check at the butt or at worst glue in a couple dimes under the butt cork if it needs anything. My dobyns xp and dx rods are my favorite production rods I own even though their heavier and not as sensitive as some similar priced rods. It’s how I can hold the same rod for 12 hours and not fatigue that makes them good to me. I hope this rod needs nothing to balance like that.

When I mentioned reel seat distance that was purely from Kyle Welchers rod specs. Now that you got my mind working, I measured my favorite casting rods and 12 1/4” to 12 1/2” from end of the butt to center of the reel is what I prefer. I found this on 3 rods ranging from 7ft to 7’4”, split and full grip. Honestly I was expecting the longer rods to have a longer butt to balance them out but I am mistaken. Thank you for all the advice! I definitely feel a lot more confident now to build this rod. Thanks!

Joshua, you hit the info lottery on your 1st post! I might add that you can strip the disliked guide train from the NFC and re-wrap it. Your stuck with the handle length and reel seat but you might be happier with the rod. Never met a Point Blank I didn't like.

Norman Miller Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> You can’t go wrong placing the RV6 about 19 to
> 20” in front of the reel. The PB731MHXF is an
> extremely nice blank, I have built several of
> them. With your handle length you will not need to
> worry about balance, in fact, because of the way
> they are built it’s very difficult not to have
> Point Blanks balance. For my PB731MHXF I used 10
> guides total, not including the tip top, but used
> size 4.5 KB/KT runners. Using the two line static
> test will give you very a good guide layout. I
> spiral wrapped one of my PB731MHXF and it performs
> great, just as well as the one wrapped
> traditional. For the handle I used the NFC soft
> touch carbon fiber split grip with Fuji ECM reel
> seat. Very light, comfortable, and basically
> bullet proof. Good luck with your build.
> Norm

Thank you for the advice Norman, seems like 19-20” is the sweet spot for the rv6. I’m nervous but also excited to build this rod since so many people say it’s great. Just being honest I did not pick the guide amount or type at all. That was Kyle and Jim Ising’s recommendation for the blank since I’ll always be using flourocarbon. Usually 14lb test. I’m still learning the whole guide size vs line size/ type stuff so I stuck to their advice. Only reason I chose a 4.5 tip is because I can’t get the kg in a 4 right now. Would a 4.5 guide set benefit me vs a size 4 since I only use flouro?

Since you mentioned handles, I have a custom made kistler helium with the NFC 1 piece efx soft touch handle and it’s my favorite handle I’ve used. I’m not a skilled rod builder though an I have no idea how to properly trim a carbon handle to length, nor have it match up to the sk2 reel seat. After listening to Micheal above, I measured all my rods and my preference is almost right at 12 1/2” from butt end to the center of the reel on all my personal favorite rods split or full length. The efx soft touch 1 piece only comes in 9.75” or 14.5” though, and I’m not very confident cutting one down as I’ve never done it. My kistler handle is 9 1/4” with a 1” foam cap and I hate the cap, I’d have to do something different there. I would definitely try the 2 piece efx handles after feeling mine, but I’d really like to learn how to fit the 1 piece to the sk2 seat and trim the length right.

The more I think about it, the more I like the idea of a efx handle with sk2 seat and titanium guides with black guide thread. Throw in some silver and black winding checks and it could look decent too! Stealthy but strong. However I am no pro at any of this and I don’t feel I know enough to risk it for this build. But that’s how we learn right? I feel a lot better about trying different handles now that you say the blanks tend to balance well. If you have any input on trimming the carbon handles or sizing the 2 piece efx I’m all ears! I’ve read many threads on here with you involved and I’d gladly take any advice I can get. Thanks!

Thanks Lynn, fwiw I tried to quote you but it said a word was banned.

I’ve seen how some new guys tend to start threads so I figured I should mention what I know and don’t know first lol. That is a great idea you have. I had planned on giving this rod to a friend but I do feel it deserves some new guides. I went a bit short on my handle length and going to a lighter guide setup should help it balance out I would think. I could live with the seat if I replaced the guides, maybe. Honestly I rushed and let prices get to me. I’ve only built a couple rods from blanks but my usual theory is a blank is at its best when it’s bare. I could be completely wrong, but from what I’ve learned I’d rather add premium pieces to a cheap blank over cheap stuff on a high end blank. I build motors (Audi stuff) and fish if I’m not working. All this rod building is new to me but I treat it like my motors, good components make a an ok performer better. Thank you for the advice, I’m definitely rethinking the guide layout now!

The NFC soft touch EFX casting grips I have used are all the split grip version in both the 1K and 3 K design. Being a split grip there is no trimming involved, and you can make the handle any length you want. Both the rear grip and fighting butt are included. The rear grip contains a polyurethane foam arbor with tenon already glued in place. The fighting butt, is not arbored and uses the EVA end pieces as the arbor. However, I cut and shape a small piece of 24mm polyurethane foam arbor to add a little more internal support. If you don’t like the EVA foam winding checks that come with the soft touch grip, the American Tackle aluminum winding checks for their G2carbon grips fit perfect. The problem with the NFC soft touch grips is they don’t have one that fits the SK2 casting reel seat. They do fit almost any other size 16 or 17 casting reel seat, but not the SK2. If you want a split reel seat you could use the PacBay Minima casting seat, but it is a little heavier than the SK2 but not by much. Both NFC and CFX do have a regular CF foam core split grip that fit the SK2, and they are also quite nice. Both the NFC and CFX grips look identical, but the CFX is slightly lighter.
I use mostly size 4.5 runners because I use braid with a fluorocarbon leader, and they will pass a FG knot without any problem. Since you are not using any leaders size 4 runners work well. As far as performance is concerned I can’t tell the difference between size 4.5 and 4. So basically your choice.
Norm

Your guide train is spot on. I purposely use a slightly larger tip top for 4 mm and 4.5 mm running guides. A 4.5 for the tip top if using 4 mm running train and a 5 TT if using 4.5 running guides. Most of my builds are for guys using braid and that is the spott that will have the most effect on the leader knot. You have already controlled the "wave" in the line with rapid reduction and the tip is just going to release the line or even a knot that much better. The RV 6 is my go to stripper guide because of the height and I usually mount them 19" to 22" from the reel level wind or front of the reel. If I was to build a conventional casting rod with all the guides on top I would use 11 to 12 total guides for a 7'3" finished rod length (not including tip top); for a spiral wrap you could get away with 10.