I’m considering getting an SCV blank and cutting about three inches from it’s butt to make it a better length for jerkbaiting. I know this will slow the blank a little. My question is whether the action change can be expected to be proportional along the length of the rod verses being biased towards the butt-end. I’d prefer to have the stiffness at the tip unchanged and the butt to have a little more flex. I can see a reason to hypothesize either way. Does anyone have experience or an answer? I’ve never cut a blank and am only considering it because I have a great deal of confidence and experience with St. Croix products and feel comfortable with their rated characteristics.

If want to cut the blank it is best to do it from the butt end. I doubt you notice any change with 3 inches removed, you will have a rod which will be 3 inches shorter. Do a simple test, to satisfy yourself, support the blank where you will hold it or where the reel seat will be and hang a weight from the tip and note the deflection. Then support the blank 3 inches closer to the tip and note the deflection. I doubt if there will any difference.

I have cut a number of blanks all from the butt end without issues.

I also remove some of the tip of the blank. I do this because I do not know how the manufacturer terminated the tip. I cut off just enough (1/16 to 3/16 of an inch) to insure that the tip is flawless and structurally sound.
Good luck

Have fun

Cutting the blank from either end slows the overall action. Remember that "action" refers to roughly how much of the blank initially flexes, So as you shorten the rod, even from the butt, the percentage of the rod that initially flexes against its overall length increases.

Cutting from the tip increases casting weight range by a bit. Cutting from the butt reduces total deadlift power by a bit. All depending, of course, on how much you cut.

Cutting a blank may also void the manufacturer's warranty. When in doubt, contact them and ask.

...........

Which SCV are you considering cutting? Looks like a big selection of SCV's are available from Rodgeeks, so is cutting really necessary? I would buy the blank closest to the length I want and leave it alone. If one can argue that cutting 3 inches off doesn't affect the characteristics that much then leaving the 3 inches on won't either. No risk on an expensive blank.

Kendall, it's pretty much math, two blanks that bend identically but with different lengths will have different actions, the longer, the faster. It doesn't mean the shorter rod won't get the job done. Myself, if my rod isn't being interfered with by striking the water for instance, 3 inches probably wouldn't change my presentation enough to warrant cutting the blank.

Kendall,
I have cut a lot of blanks of all sorts, sizes and power. Almost without exception, I cut from the butt of the rod.

The rods have always met or exceeded my expectations and have been well pleased with all of the rods.

Before cutting, I simply put the tip of the rod on the floor and I hold the rod where the reel seat would be on the shortened rod and verify that I am happy with the appearance and overall working of the blank as it is bent from being held in that particular spot. If so, I introduce the rod to my mini chop saw and the butt has been excised from the blank and I move on.

Take care

Kendall,
All of the above replies are valid and deserve to be considered. John additionally added “I also remove some of the tip of the blank. I do this because I do not know how the manufacturer terminated the tip. I cut off just enough (1/16 to 3/16 of an inch) to insure [ensure] that the tip is flawless and structurally sound.” I have been doing the same with all my blanks, and the butt as well, but with slow-speed sanding to avoid even the tiniest of splinters.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

I have 3 rods that where I have chosen to cut the blank.

1. Rainshadow IP840 cut down from 7' to 6'8". In my boat with rods 6'10" and longer, I am more inclined to whack the trolling motor when casting. I trimmed this blank to avoid that issue and reduce the chance of high sticking such a low powered blank when landing fish (I'm short, what can I say, dealing with fish on a 7' rod is still a challenge for me). As noted the lifting power drops slightly and the action slows slightly. I use this rod to cast UL jigs for panfish and UL cranks for bass (think the smallest size Big O and such).

2. A Rich Forhan Legacy Elite 765. It was a blank sourced by Bill Stevens at Swampland from Seeker. The blanks came from the factory untrimmed at both the tip and butt (stock blank was around 7'9" if I recall correctly), and could be trimmed to an angler's preferences. Mine ended up becoming pretty much a dead match for the specs of a BS706 S-Glass from Seeker. 7' is as long as I care to fish. Any longer and the rods start getting in the way too much in my little boat. I trimmed this blank to match the tip power of the 4 power Falcon rod that I liked for cranking. It resulted in about 5/8" trimmed off the tip. I then took the rest from the butt to bring the blank down to 7'. Had I realized that I would have ended up with the same specs as a stock 706, I would have just bought one, but it was a great opportunity to learn about trimming blanks.

3. An MHX FP885. I trimmed it down from 7'4" to 7' because as mentioned 7' is long enough for me. I built it to learn a bit more about flipping and pitching and for throwing frogs over the slop. If I ever become good enough at the traditional flipping technique to feel hampered by the shorter rod, I'll have an excuse to build a new rod and have a better idea of what I want from it.

Those are my experiences. Each trim was made for a reason. In addition to guide trains and handle designs, custom rod building can certainly include modifying the length, action, and power of a blank to meet the angler's needs. Extensions become free game as well. CCS measurements and/or placing blanks side by side on a Duplicator board (CRB Deflection Tool) can go a long way toward making sure you end up in the correct place BEFORE you cut.

As mentioned, you can push up the lower end of the lure range a bit with a tip trim. You can never decrease the lower limit of the lure range. You will always slow the action a bit when you trim. You can never make an action faster with a trim. If you need a lower lure limit, you need a new blank. If you need a faster action, you need a new blank or need to extend the blank.

Kendall, I get exactly where you're coming from. My very first build was a jerkbait rod. I wanted the stiffer tip of a fast action blank, but the deeper bend (under the load of a fish) into the midsection of the blank. I'm shorter and the gunwales on my boat are a little taller than the gunwales on today's bass boats, and since I work jerkbaits tip down, I wanted the finished length of the rod to be 6'. I used a 6'6" blank and trimmed 6" off the butt. I still have the stiff tip that when needed, really lets me rip a jerkbait, but it loads more into the midsection of the blank when under the load of a fish. Initially I was really happy with the build, but as I fished it more, I found myself wishing I would have used the same powered blank, but only in a 7' length. I just think trimming9 - 12" off the butt would get me closer to what I would consider a perfect jerkbait rod.

So yeah, unless you're concerned with the blanks warranty, I say trim away. 3" isn't going to change it that much, and it isn't going to affect the rods ability to work the bait. It will just help a little as far as keeping fish pinned a little better.

Sounds like all one has to do to get a great blank is to take a blank that is designed by pros for a specific use/technique and produced in a precision manufacturing environment and cut it off. And lo and behold, it will amaze.

And of course all of these blanks that are designed by pros for specific uses or techniques come in the perfect length for every individual. And don't you dare think outside of the box. If you're building a spinning rod, you better be building it on a blank labeled for a spinning rod. And if the blank is labeled as a crankbait blank, don't you dare throw anything other than a crankbait on that blank. No sir, don't you do it !!!

And heaven forbid you ever disagree with someone that wrote a book, or wanted a rod with different attributes than what a pro thinks that rod should have .......... if you do that, you're just wrong.

I’m looking at cutting the SCV70MF down three inches from the butt end to make it a 6’9” rod. That should be about my perfect personal length for jerkbaiting. I just slap the water a bit with a 7’0 rod on the shallow baits. Most jerkbaits I use weigh between 1/4 and 1/2 ounce. I use 8-10lb. fluorocarbon. St Croix makes an identical rod at 6’6”, so going to the midpoint between these two should be fine. They told me that it would not void the blank warranty. I appreciate the heads-up which prompted me to ask.

Jerkbaiting is about the only purpose I would personally ever have for cutting a blank. Few blank companies make one for this use. Length for the technique is fairly specific to angler and boat height. Many anglers want as long of a rod as they get away with without slapping the water or high gunwales. As David wrote, the flex characteristics are different for the technique. The rod I am considering is actually built by St. Croix as a spinning rod, but I will be building it as a baitcaster.



Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 08/06/2021 12:17AM by Kendall Cikanek.

The SCV70MF is one of my all-time favorites. I see your reasoning on the length. Will work great for finessed, too. Good news on the the warranty.

I can buy a blank designed by professionals for a specific purpose and do anything I want with it. I can shorten it, make it longer or make it multi sectional and when it is completed it is my creation crafted to SATISFY my needs or the WANTS of a customer. For me there are no set rules for rod blanks or any other rod components.

Kendall

If cutting the blank will give you a rod that handles well and gives you satisfaction then go for it. That is what custom rod building is all about.

Have fun

If you decide to cut it, try this first. Mock up the handle as you intend to build it (shim with tape, etc.) and stop everything 3 inches shy of the butt. For the most part you'll now have the rod as it will be once trimmed. Tape on some guides and go cast it. Try it with the lures and techniques you intend to use. If all is well, trim it and go on with the assembly. If it doesn't suit you, back up and try something different.

............

Thanks, I will do that.