In the past, a number of members have inquired about how to make trim bands for their guide wraps. Most often, the replies suggested using the “nail knot” method to make a separate trim band from the main wrap. But the narrower the band = the more difficult (if not impossible) to execute and having to make two separate wraps rather than simply extending the main wrap from the trim band seems awkward and time consuming to me. I have replied to a few of those “how-to” requests in the past by suggesting to simply employ the use of the “Adding-and-Dropping-Threads” (we’ll call it “A&DT”) method which I thought was common knowledge and what everyone used; apparently I was wrong. It is no different than adding an inlay thread or changing color of the main wrap except it is performed at the very beginning of the wrap. A&DT not only allows for trim bands as narrow as 1 thread, but additionally allows for the precise starting and stopping points of the threads to keep them aligned and professional looking! If one keeps an open mind, it will become obvious A&DT is a far superior method considering both appearance and time! There are NO tag ends left protruding through the wrap to (hopefully) be cut flush = NO NUBS. Furthermore, all tag ends are positioned to the right of the wrap where they can be un-precisely trimmed and simply wrapped over to conceal and secure. To me it is a no-brainer!
I have recently spent a fair amount of time trying to locate a / the video of the A&DT method, but to no avail, so I will attempt to explain it, along with supporting photos in the photo gallery. Sorry, no video.
First of all, I wrap with the thread coming from low and in front to over the top and back (the top of the blank turning away from me) and typically left-to-right (except for that one foot of double foot guides). So, take that into consideration for those of you wrapping in the opposite direction and adjust / reverse my direction(s). Keep in mind this is a VERY SIMPLE, EASY AND BASIC method = don’t make it more complicated than it is! This method is DEFINITELY QUICKER, EASIER, AND THE THREADS ARE HELD MORE SECURELY = a WIN, WIN, WIN!!! I will attempt to show 3 different applications of A&DT; 1. A typical, simple 3-thread trim band, 2. A single-thread trim band, and 3. My version of a color-fade wrap. ALL ARE SIMPLY BASED ON A&DT!!! All will be performed with “D” thread to hopefully show more detail in the photos although my camera and personal photo abilities are admittedly less than optimum.
The most basic yet fundamental aspect to remember of A&DT is to position the thread to be dropped to the left of the main (or continuing) thread so it can be held and secured UNDER it!. While the thread to be dropped will not always fall to the left, there is an easy remedy which will be explained shortly. Simply remember, THREAD TO BE DROPPED TO THE LEFT!! Always introduce the new (added) thread from the left, then under the main thread with the tag end toward the right (and tape to secure). Keep similar tension on the thread spools and RUN EACH THREAD THROUGH THE SAME FINAL “EYE” leading onto the blank. Mark the blank where you want all the threads to start and end to keep them aligned. All further comments and instructions will be based on the alignment mark being used.
For a 3-thead trim band, wrap the trim color 1 full rotation around the blank and sea-saw the thread back and forth to produce a 90* to the axis of the blank at the desired starting location. Continue wrapping the tag end around the blank 3-4 times in an open spiral and secure the end with tape (some of you will be able to simply hold the tag with your fingers but I am more comfortable with taping it). Cross the standing end of the thread (coming from the spool) over the next rotation of thread (as typically done when starting a wrap) JUST BEFORE the alignment mark to hold the tag end. [
www.rodbuilding.org] Continue wrapping until the desired 3 full rotations of trim color have been achieved. Insert (add) the main wrap color, again, from left to right and under the trim color JUST BEFORE the alignment mark and alongside the trim color tag, then tape the tag to secure. [
www.rodbuilding.org] While pinching yet letting both the trim and main threads slip through your fingers, make only 1 more rotation. [
www.rodbuilding.org] You will notice the trim color (to be dropped) is on the right of the main thread but, as stated earlier, needs to be on the left to be dropped. Simply hold the wrap with a finger to maintain tension on the wrap, cut the trim color, unwind it one turn (it will now be on the left) and tuck it under the main thread (to the right) to hold it. Tuck it under the main thread JUST PAST the alignment mark. [
www.rodbuilding.org] Make two or three more turns to secure all of the tag ends (the initial starting tag of the trim color, the starting tag of the main color and the ending tag of the trim color. Pull the tags to line-up with the alignment mark; begin with the starting main color tag, then the starting trim color and finally the ending trim color; then trim off all three. [
www.rodbuilding.org] [
www.rodbuilding.org] Pack the threads to eliminate the gap caused by unwinding the one rotation of trim color. With the three tags cut off, continue / finish the wrap with the main color and tie off in your normal fashion = DONE. [
www.rodbuilding.org] Note that a wider trim band simply requires more rotations of the trim color prior to adding the main color.
A single-thread trim band starts the same as the 3-thread (+) trim band above but stops at 2 rotations rather than 3. After 2-rotations, insert the main color as above and tape off the tag. As above, pinch the trim and main colors and make one rotation. [
www.rodbuilding.org] While keeping tension on the wrap with a finger, cut and then unwind the trim color one rotation as above and tuck under the main thread to hold it. [
www.rodbuilding.org] Make 2-4 rotations with the main color to secure the trim color tags and the new main color tag. [
www.rodbuilding.org] Now, simply pull the trim color ending tag carefully from under the main color wrap a full turn until it lines up with the start / stop alignment mark. [
www.rodbuilding.org] To finish the single-thread trim band, first pull the main color starting tag and then the starting tag of the trim color to line-up with the alignment mark and ending trim tag. [
www.rodbuilding.org], cut all three tags and continue / finish with the main wrap and tie-off = DONE.
While My version of “color fade wraps” employs the same, simple basic method of A&DT, forethought and precise measurements are required to achieve each color being the same, identical width AND line-up (end-up) at the guide legs (unless you are capable of wrapping DOWN the ramp of a guide foot with which I am admittedly NOT comfortable). To hopefully minimize confusion of the method description, each color of the fade will use 8 full rotations of each color thread. Additionally, to help blend each color into the following color, we will introduce both colors, side-by-side for 2 rotations, drop the previous color and continue on with the next color. Perhaps you will find, as I did, it is actually easier to produce a “blend” between the two colors rather than a sharp, distinct change of color as described in #1 and #2 above.
Start the wrap as above. Wrap 8 rotations / threads. Add the next color as described above, from left to right and under the previous color. Since we want the first and second color to fade together for 2 rotations, but the color to be dropped (the first one) is on the right, wrap the first AND second color side-by-side for 3-ROTATIONS. [
www.rodbuilding.org] Maintain tension on the wrap with a finger, cut the first color thread, unwind it one turn and tuck it under the standing thread of the second color. We end-up with both colors side-by-side (blended) for 2 rotations. [
www.rodbuilding.org] Wrap over the first color ending tag with the second color 4 warps to secure. [
www.rodbuilding.org] Pull the tag ends to align with the alignment mark as described in #1 above and trim off. Proceed with 5 more rotations to achieve a total of 8, add the next color, and proceed as with the first two colors and so on = DONE.[
www.rodbuilding.org]
Note: Although one can make a color fade wrap by simply starting with the (say) darker color and ending with the (say) lighter color, I have found continuing the wrap while reversing the color order produces a more stunning wrap = dark-to-light-and-back-to-dark rather than simply dark-to-light. Obviously, it requires twice the amount of time (and patience) though. [
www.rodbuilding.org] While some of my color fades can require an hour each, this example of 4-colors, dark-to-light-and-back-to-dark, requires about 15 minutes (and I am admittedly slow).
Sometimes, attempting to describe something simple makes it sound complex. Additionally, lengthy text (as this piece) can make one assume the process is lengthy as well. Trust me, this method of Adding and Dropping threads or changing thread colors is so basic that if you are not already familiar with it, you should be!!! Many of you may already be employing A&DT without even realizing it! If my instructions seem complex or hard to understand, I can only apologize because they ultimately are not. I have overly-scrutinized the steps in hopes of providing the easiest, most informative, “oopsless” path to your ultimate success. I am confident ALL of you will recognize the benefit of A&DT if you only give it an honest, open-minded chance. While there is an expression, “You can’t teach an old dog new tricks”, I contend it depends on the dog!!!
In addition to the fundamental aspect of A&DT “THREAD TO BE DROPPED TO THE LEFT”, now that you are (hopefully) more comfortable with the method, allow me to offer an other fundamental to simplify its use. If the tread to be dropped is the last one added to the wrap (say an inlay thread), it will already be on the LEFT of the main thread and does NOT require an additional rotation of both and then unwound 1 turn; simply make the desired rotations, cut and tuck under the main thread (to the right). Contrarily, if the thread to be dropped was there before the added thread, it will be on the right of the continuing (added) thread and therefore requires an additional, “sacrificial” rotation of both threads so the thread to be dropped can be cut and unwound 1 turn and then tucked under the continuing thread.
Once again, allow me to stress the point that this is not a method I developed, but simply what I learned from the internet long before joining rodbuilding.org. While I may have “tweaked” it a bit, I do not deserve credit for the basic fundamentals of the method. However, I sincerely thank whoever it was who posted that video I saw back then describing Adding & Dropping Threads!!!
My thread-wrapping life is much easier, quicker, secure and precise by simply utilizing A&DT!!!
Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.
