Travis,
As has been said in the past, plagiarism is a sign of a good design.
If you see a rod wrapper that looks like it will work for you, just use the design. There is nothing wrong with implementing a design that you see someplace as long as you don't use the deign for commercial replication and making money from someone else's work.
When I first starting building, I simply used the design that is being used by a local commercial rod school that builds hundreds or thousands of rods per year.
You will see comments and recommendations about putting tension on a thread spool to maintain tension on the thread while wrapping.
However, I take the old school approach that is used to apply tensions to the thread on sewing, embroidery, blanket making, shoe making machines on virtually every sewing machines used in the world every day to construct billions of clothing items ad well as foot wear, saddles, bridles etc.
So, if it is good enough to keep the tensions on these machines, It is certainly good enough to build fishing rods.
However, there is one limitation - do NOT use a spring disk tensioned thread tension device to wrap with metallic thread. The way that metallic thread is manufactured, the use of spring loaded disks will often cause the metallic thread to deconstruct.
So, I simply use one of these for thread tension on the wrapper that I have used all these many years wrapping rods:
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www.jannsnetcraft.com]
In use, I have a weighted horizontal base, and a movable arm to align with the tension device mounted on the top side of the tension device.
Picture as follows:
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www.rodbuilding.org]
In use, the tensioner is simply placed along the back edge of the rod building wrapper base and the tensioner is simply slid along the back of the base as the rod is wrapped.
Note: I use metallic thread for trim wraps. To wrap metallic trim thread, I simply snip off a couple of feet of metallic thread, and start the thread under the wraps. Then, I wrap the thread, maintaining tension with my hand and fingers on the thread. Easy, simple and fool proof and no issues ever with the metallic thread coming apart.
For the base of the wrapper, I first simply used a pine 1x4 with holes drilled in it along the center line to hold the rod rests:
I later used a router to mill a slot in the board to allow for small movements of the rod stands.
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For a rod stand, a simple wood V-block works fine. To insure that the rod does not come out of the V stand, just loop a binder around the top of the V - so that the rod does not hop out of the block. Also, if hand wrapping, notch the top sides of the v at about the same level as the bottom of the V to let the rubber binder rest in the notches. This will provide a bit of tension on the rod so that the rod does not back up - if you take your hands off of the rod when wrapping.
An example of a simple rod rest:
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www.rodbuilding.org]
Over time, if you prefer, you can make or obtain roller rod rests with a top arm with a roller on it to contain the rod - that work very well.
Here for example is an Alps rod rest:
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www.rodbuilding.org]
These are examples of rod rests that I made with aluminum stock, plastic cutting board, and shower door rollers with a rubber O ring in the groove of the roller to protest the blank:
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www.rodbuilding.org]
So, you can start very basic equipment and if you like it you can expand your tooling as you become more proficient in the craft.
Best wishes
