I have the crb rod turning lathe and their pro roller stands. Im having trouble keeping the rod in the chuck with the roller stands. The wheels riding on the taper tend to pull the rod out of the chuck. What might i be doing wrong?

Thanks

Hello Justin.

Try leveling the rod.

Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

That's common with about any wrapper/lathe system. As Robert said, make sure the rod supports are holding the rod level. Wrap a few bands of masking tape around the blank butt so when you tighten the chuck on the blank but there is a little bit of cushion to bite into.

..............

Justin,
Robert and Tom said it for me = I agree. Allow me to add to Tom’s suggestion; cut the end of the masking tape square and wrap three rotations around the blank (without wrinkles) and cut it off squarely just short of where you started. This will keep the thickness of the tape the same and concentric all the way around the blank. Also, if the blank diameter is large enough, bottom-out the butt of the blank against the faceplate of the chuck to eliminate the jaws from pulling the blank further in.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Justin, I do two things. I have drilled a hole in a paint mixing stick at the center height of my chuck (with the jaws closed) while resting it on the bed. I now can use the paint mixer anywhere on the bed knowing that as long as the hole is in alignment with the center of the blank, it is level.
To keep the blank tight in the jaws of the chuck without crushing the blank, I wrap a rubber band around the butt end of the blank or the butt cap. Sometimes I'll use a scrap piece of EVA grip material of different sizes to slip over the butt end to absorb the jaw pressure. I never worry about the blank or rod coming loose anymore.

Dennis J. Danku
(Sayreville,NJ)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/09/2021 10:07PM by Dennis Danku.

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/10/2021 08:20PM by John Ricks.

Which, specifically system - are you referring too: Model and or part numbers please.

Thanks much .

If you line every thing up on the same axis as the chuck , you will stop the flex an will not walk out , need a metal rod to get the axis of the chuck ,

William Sidney
AK

Hello Justin.

If you have it there is an article in RodMaker Magazine Volume 8 Issue 2 Page 22 on a "Jig/Lathe Height Adjustment Gauge" that instructs you how to make one "Easy To Make, Easy To Use!"

If you don't have that magazine you can get a copy from Tom or you could just use a metal ruler to measure the center of your chuck height and adjust your stands so that your rods center is at the same height as the center of your chuck.


Hope that helps.

Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

Perhaps your rollers are a bit to tight, thus drawing the the blank away from the chuck.

Justin,
Can you post the model number or stock number of the setup you are using with respect to the motor, chuck and rod stands?

Any of the issues that you mention have a solution. But, I would just like to be 100% sure that the pieces involved in the problem are clear.

Take care

By the way, if you have a 3-jaw style chuck on the head stock, and if the jaws have an inner concave shape with a rubber liner that is also concave, you have the best possible shape for the jaws.

Make sure that your rod blank is easy rolling in the rod holder stands with the head stock chuck loose.

Then, if the rod stands allow good blank retention with no rolling resistance, and if the chuck is a three way concave shaped jaws with a concave shaped rubber liner on the jaws you have the best setup for a chuck.

If under these conditions you are still having issues with the blank moving out of the chuck the very simple solution is to simply take a common rubber band and continue to look it around the butt of the rod until all of the slack in the rubber band is gone. Then, insert the blank into the chuck, tighten the jaws - compressing the rubber in the rubber bands and -- as long as the jaw adjustment does not change - the rod blank will be secure and will not come out of the head stock chuck.

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However, if when you inspect the jaws on your head stock chuck and find that they are not concave but rather flat and or rather pointed - you have a problem.
The jaws need to be removed and the ends need to be machined to a concave shape to a radius of about 1 inch. This radius will fairly closely match the nominal curvature of the size of most freshwater rod grips. If, your work is on musky rods and or salt water rods with a 1/2 -1/34 inch grip, then the radius of the concave should be more like 1 1/4 inch to 1 3/8th of an inch for the best gripping power on the butt section of the rod.

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If you have this head stock with this chuck, you should be set, because the chuck on this head stock is a virtual perfect match for the description listed above:
[www.mudhole.com]

If you don't have this chuck, then I suggest that you contact Mudhole to order a set of these jaws to go into your existing chuck if you have the improved (old style jaws) on your head stock.

In a nutshell - with a chuck with non moving jaws that have the inside concave grind I have had 0 issues of the rod moving out of the chuck while working on it.

Best wishes.