I just got a batch of production rods that never left the reseller's warehouse due to having broken tips. I'm stripping the guides off to use for repairs and it occurred to me that I may could reuse the tops also. Anyone ever try this? I'm concerned that the heat to remove the guide may compromise the ring.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/02/2021 07:30PM by Greg Marshall.

It won't be a problem if they are all metal, no inserts.

I would try cutting the guides off first, before using heat, by taking a sharp razor blade to cut the threads off the guide foot then lifting off the guide. I generally start cutting the threads by cutting along the sides (tunnel) of the guide foot. This system works fine for me.

No problem!

If the tip does not have a plastic shock ring try # 1 and/or #2.

If the tip has a plastic shock ring go to #2 You can try #1 but be very careful not to apply too much heat.

#1 If there is enough blank sticking out of the tip to grip I would mount it in a vise and wrap a wire around the tip and heat the tip while pulling the wire, it should come right off.

#2 f there is not enough blank exposed then take a Dermel or a drill and with slow speed drill out the tip starting with a small drill and increase the size until the tip is cleared.

good luck

Use a 40 -60 watt soldering iron (not gun) applied to the tube to remove the tip-tops.
Attach a rubber band to tiptop ring - attach other end to a stationary object - tension the rubber band - apply heat - the tip-top will pop off when it's hot enough.
Herb

This is simple - if the heat required to remove the tiptop takes no more than 3 or 4 seconds of heat direct on the tiptop tube, the ring will be fine. If it requires more than that to remove the tiptop from the blank, toss it.

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A really simple thing to do.

Take a pair of common slip joint pliers.
Grast the ring of the tip top with the pliers. The pliers will absorb any extra heat from heating the tube of the tip top.

I like to use an alcohol burner t heat the tip top - since the alcohol burns with no flame and thus no carbon soot on the tip top.

Apply steady outward pressure with the pliers that are absorbing excess heat.

When the cement softens, the tip top will slide off the rod blank with no damage.

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Note:
I do the same thing when soldering in specific areas and I want to avoid other areas from getting too hot. i.e. I will grasp the area that I do not want heated with the pair of pliers to absorb the heat and not allow it to be conducted down the line.

Things are much much more simple then some of the responses make it sound . Stick a heat source under the metal tube for 3 to 4 seconds as Tom said, the tip top should slide right off . If you find the tip top too hot to touch put a glove on , any type will work. Tip tops should not require prolonged heat , 3 to 4 seconds tops as stated . If you don't like gloves take a pair of small needle nose pliers and lightly grip the side brace of the tip top and then apply heat but no more than a couple seconds.

I found that some production rod tip are epoxy on .might take a lot of heat but you said these are broken rods to start with.

This has been said before.
But, if you are removing a tip top that has been attached using epoxy try the following tip that I read off this forum some years ago.

Have a hook on the wall or bench in a convenient location.
Obtain some medium size rubber bands.
Have a source of heat available for you to use to heat the tip top.

Now, loop the rubber band through the tip top ring.

Hook the loops on the rubber band to your securely stable hook.

Pull the rod blank back to the limit of stretch in the rubber band.

Place your heat source under the tip top and slowly rotate the rod blank in your hand.

Just as soon as the cement (what ever type of cement has been used) softens sufficiently, the pull from the rubber band will pull the tip top from the tip of the rod blank with the least amount of heat possible.

This method allows you to use the least amount of heat, allows a single person to do the work by ones self and gets the tip top off of the rod blank as quickly as possible.

By the way, it is not a bad idea to place a hole in a piece of sponge rubber about a foot square and place it around the hook. That way, when the tip is ejected from the end of the rod tip due to the pulling force of the rubber band, the wall on which the hook is attached, nor the top top itself is not damaged by the flying tip top.

Be safe

Yes. Some are coming off easily after about 3 seconds heat from a torch. Others won’t. I’m chunking those. Next I want to clean out residual glue from the tube. Or do I ?

I don't think I've ever ruined a tip just from heating it enough to remove it. A Bic lighter works fine, just be cautious.

I use a lighter and heat while pulling never had a problem. I use a drill bit to clean out the epoxy out of the tube.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/05/2021 12:17AM by gabriele schieda.

You will need to clean out the inside of the tip top and ensure all old glue/epoxy is removed or you will not get a good bond when you reuse it. I drill bit as indicated above will work but be gentle.

It is easy to clean a tip top.

Just take a 1/16th inch piece of piano or drill wire.

Use a sander to put a sharp point on the end.

Heat the tip top tube and the drill wire and use the wire to wipe the inside of the tip top tube clean of finish.

No big deal. No need to use a spinning drill bit that could cause problems.

Be safe