Question .... maybe worried a little too much, maybe not? I've only used cork as grip and skeleton seat insert material on one build that I've done. It was a rod I built as a gift for my friend/ boss and it was on a slenderish spinning rod blank. As such, I had no concerns of how thin the walls of the reel seat insert would be once I'd reamed it to fit.

I am starting a new build and am using a Forecast skeleton reel seat with an accompanying cork insert. The O.D. of the blank where the reel seat will be located is .530". The O.D. of the cork insert where it slips inside the seat hood, is .670". So basically I'll have a skosh more than 1/16" of cork between the blank, and the inside of the reel seat hood. I've used the same reel seat on all of my spinning rod builds, but other than the rod I mentioned earlier, I have always used the matching woven graphite insert. I simply epoxy in a foam abor, then ream to fit.

Never a concern of how sturdy it would be no matter how thin the arbor ended up being (it has been less than a 1/16th" on two of the builds) because I figured the combination of the arbor and the graphite insert would be more than strong enough. I'm not so sure about cork though. So what say you, the good and experienced builders of Rodbuilding.org?

I'd planned on treating it the same as a graphite insert in that I would epoxy the hood and thread barrel on, and then ream to fit. Should I be a little worried about cork getting that thin? Or should I look for another insert material?

I really like the looks of the woven graphite insert, but I wanted to keep with the cork theme, or at least a color of insert that would go well with the grips I'm using. One thought that has come to mind is trimming the length of the tenon. Leaving just enough to center the seat hood, and then building a small tape arbor to support the rest of the seat hood. I mount the seats down locking, but am not overly concerned about the thread barrel, simply because of its' longer length. The hood section of the seat is only 13/16ths" long, and the trim ring I am using between the seat and the grip has a lip that extends about 1/8th" into the hood itself. Doesn't give me much length left over.

All opinions and suggestions are more than welcome, and will be greatly appreciated. I don't want to delay the build, but I'm not going to build an iffy rod.

Why don't you use a 17 mm cork insert and skeleton? Give yourself some more cork to work with and it will be more comfortable over a long day fishing. Larger is better.

Spencer, thank you for the response. I appreciate it. And it is a 17 mm seat. It's a Forecast GS17KC-B with a GS17C cork insert. I've been going with that size because as you said, it's more comfortable over a long day of fishing.. I went ahead and reamed it out. I didn't epoxy on the hood and thread barrel just yet, but I did have them on as I reamed it. I have it reamed for a little snugger fit than I normally would, and it seems just fine.

As I said in my initial post, I have used the woven graphite insert for the seat on all my past builds. I use a Forecast 17/spin foam arbor for it. I have a spare one so I was thinking instead of a masking tape arbor if needed, I'd just cut pieces of the arbor to the length needed, and use those, but the 17 arbor is loose inside the hood and thread barrel. Which makes sense in that the foam arbor fits perfectly inside the woven graphite insert for the seat.

Since I personally don't like the idea of using a masking tape arbor and think using pieces of a foam arbor (if needed) is a pretty good idea, I went ahead and ordered a size 18 arbor from Mud Hole. (Utmost doesn't offer that size) I'll have to sand down the O.D. of it a bit to fit, but I think it should work really well. That is IF others more knowledgeable on the subject feel it might be a better option than going with the cork insert I already have reamed.

As I said above. I seems fine. I went really slow while reaming it. There is no flex in any of the pieces when I have it positioned on the blank. And when I take the hood and thread barrel off, the cork is in excellent shape. I even mounted the reel I'll be using, on the rod, and while I can't tighten it down because I don't have it epoxied yet. I did try flexing it front to back and it's solid.

So even though I know the final decision is up to me ... I really want to hear opinions. Use it as I have it now? Or go with the idea of the foam arbor pieces?

Once again, all opinions and responses will be appreciated

I don't see any reason why the cork would be a problem. The thin part will be supported by the blank on one side and the reel seat on the other. All of that will be encapsulated in epoxy.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

The thin cork should hold up just fine as arbor material under the reel seat pieces.

Russell and Joe, thank you both for your responses, They are very much appreciated. And yeah, I figured it would be fine with the cork as is. The only thing that had me wondering, is the compressive nature of cork. It definitely compresses more easily than the foam arbors. But as you said. It's going to be encapsulated with epoxy.

So since my thinking is the same as yours Russell, and yours Joe. I'm going to go ahead and use the cork insert. I'm sure I'll find a use for the size 18 arbor I have coming in, and I changed my mind about using the BC Grey Alconite guides I also have ordered. So on the order I placed with Mud Hole for the size 18 arbor, I ordered a KB 5 in the black titanium T2 finish. I'm going to strip the guides off the rod I have built on the Eternity RX9 version of the 610MXF.

I rarely even carry it in my boat anymore, and I just can't see having a $120+ set of guides on a rod that sits in my rod rack at home. That, and I had a 3000 Shimano Ultegra reel on it that will now be put to good use as well I'm sure I'll eventually get around to putting the BC Grey guides on it. May try and sell it afterwards. Absolutely love everything about the rod , expect for the power of the blank.

It's a shame too, because it is a super nice rod.

Ahh well ....... once again. a thanks to all who replied. I truly appreciate it.

You can always use it as a trout or panfish rod, if you do that kind of fishing.
Norm

I agree that cork will be fine as the insert, and applaud your re-use of a reclaimed guide set. (sign of a true rodbuilder) I have never seen, (and never will) a $120+ guide set. Lol. I really like the look of BC Grey frames and use them all the time with either alconite or fazlite rings. I'm cheap!

Norman and Lynn, thank both of you for the responses. Very much appreciated.

Norman, I had the same thought. I sometimes go after some Fall perch at an inland lake near me. It would be an awesome rod for that, but I'll probably do with it what I did the last rod I built, and didn't like. Let a buddy try it, and if he likes it, I'll sell it to him.

Lynn ..... lol You're not cheap ..... you just put your money to use in other things. Probably things that make more difference than the performance difference between a Fuji T2 guide set, and a SS with Alconite guide set. If I were smart, I'd go your route, but I'm not .... so I let the shiny things distract me. lol I'm getting a lot better at that though. I don't have nearly the amount of tackle I used to have.

And just a BTW kind of thing. I got my initial order from Mud Hole about an hour ago. I really like that BC Grey color. After seeing it, I'm not nearly as bummed about Fuji discontinuing black frames. It's sharp, and looks really good with that black Alconite ring in it. The guides I received are actually darker in color than the T2 guides I have, but to my eyes they are very close in color. The T2's may look lighter because they have a shine to them, where as the BC Greys do not.

And finally, just because I don't have anyone else that would understand my wanting to share ............. I have the split grips epoxied on the blank, and the reel seat ends epoxied on the cork insert. Once everything has dried I'll get the reel seat on. Part of the Mud Hole order I just received is a single rubberized cork ring. I'm going to slice it in half and then turn the diameter down to match the diameter of the thread barrel. I'll use it to cap the end of the thread barrel. So that's what I'm off to do now!!!