I solved most all line stacking by putting the stripper directly at 0 degrees if followed up with the next guide at around 60* and adjusting that and the 3rd guide to make a straight line coming from the reel with as little angle as possible. I like the first 180* guide to be behind the major bend of the rod but sometimes that is not possible without messing up the straightness of the line, so that is not always the case (at the bend or beyond). On most fast or extra fast blanks it is not a problem. This should work with a variety of reels. I will only build a casting rod to match the color of the casting reel, if that is what the customer wants, and not try to mess up the performance. All my casting rods will work with similar profiled casting reels. Different heights in the reels profile require different distance and / or height to the stripper guide. Spinning rods are built to the reel because of guide placement although they will also work with similar sized reels, but I try to be more specific. This is what works for me. I really enjoy these threads that address performance, this type of debate makes us all better rod builders, open minds and thinking out of the box will lead to future progress.

Kent Griffith Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Mark Talmo Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
>
> > I prefer to get the line to the bottom of the
> > blank as soon as possible to reap as much
> benefit
> > from the spiral-wrapped guides as possible,
>
> This idea is a misnomer. Getting to the bottom of
> the blank as soon as possible may actually be the
> worst thing to do, and may not give most benefit
> from the spiral wrapping idea.
>
> I've been spiral wrapping bass fishing rods for
> more than 25 years and my experience shows me to
> use the natural taper of the rod blank itself to
> get the line around it further out away from the
> reel for best results. Here is an image of a
> finished spiral wrap.
>
>
>
> Please notice the line flow through the transition
> guides is perfectly ruler straight right into
> 180's further out on the blank. NO bends in the
> line going through any transition guide. And the
> line rides in the top center or bottom center of
> the transition guides as it is supposed to do.
> Side loading of any guides should not be allowed,
> but that is what happens when one tries and force
> the line to flow where it does not want to as in
> trying to get it around the blank as soon as
> possible. So my point is, the idea of getting
> around a blank as soon as possible does not always
> deliver the greatest benefit or results. It is
> actually forcing the line the flow in or through
> places it does not naturally want to be because it
> is being forced there based on an imposed idea.
>
> Let the materials be the guide to the ultimate
> performing spiral wrap!
>
> Post some photos of how your spiral wraps turn out
> and let's see how well it works...

Ken, a huge Thank You for your post. I have not thought about running it on the top/bottom of the guide ring. The moment I read your comment, it immediately made sense. This changes the way I think about spiral builds. Thanks.

ps: Do have a Q. Based on your photo, it looks like there is a bit of side loading on the 3rd guide, counting from the butt side of the rod? Or am I simply not perceiving the photo accurately?

I think Don Morton deserves all the credit for authoring the rules I followed to build my spiral wraps. It was published back in 2007 or 2008 which is how I found it.

And that third guide is a straight pull on the rod. Line is flowing in top center of that guide. Each are carefully positioned for this. No side loading, no torquing at all.

As this rod and others like it load up with a fish they are amazing with how they perform.