Roger,

that was also part of my intention. I still need to wrap everything but as of now I am 5g away from perfect balance (or half inch more in grip length. obviously wrap and epoxy will change that by quite a bit but I haven't glued the split grip yet so I am gain from that.

I am also a two hand caster, I just want to make sure I understand everything I loose by choosing a long grip.

Spencer Phipps Wrote:
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> That's why both Roger and myself specified rear
> grip length in our posts, reel seats and reel feet
> are not measurable on an individual basis so I
> disregard such info for the most part unless I
> have everything on hand. Rear grips are always a
> constant.

I am not sure I understand. Do you measure from the butt to the back of the reel seat then?

After some request of a more accurate way of measuring, I am at 11 inches from the butt to the back of the reel seat.

Luc, an 11” rear grip is fine, a little long for me, but apparently good for you. With this measurement, I assume you have the reel seat in the down locking position. One thing to remember about long handles is that they shorten the blank distance in front of the reel. For example, when using an 11” rear grip on your 7’2” rod the length of the blank in front of the reel would be the same as if you used 7’ blank with a 9” rear grip. How much extra blank length vs extra handle length affect casting distance is hard say, it could be a wash or it could make a difference. Hard to tell unless tested.
Norm

For me it has a lot to do with the power of the rod and the fish I will be catching. I'm more of a saltwater guy and find a 9" rear grip about as short as I'd ever consider for a spinning rod. That would only be for a very light power rod. I'm typically using 12" plus a gimbal with an up locking reel seat. I like the fore grip long enough so that I can barely reach the end when the rod is just above horizontal when fighting a fish.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Luc & others,
That is why I absolutely love a Tennessee Handle for my lighter trout rods; a 12in TH will afford 8in-9in of reel position adjustability, is lighter and more comfortable than just about everything else, and in a pinch, a fly reel can be employed as well. ALL of my trout rods will be built with a TH from now on! Admittedly, a TH may not be the best choice for a tuna stick though!

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Very best thing you can do is make the rear grip the proper length for what you're going to be doing with the rod.

...........

I always measure rear grip length from the reel stem to the butt. Eliminates any confusion for whatever reason.

Tom Kirkman Wrote:
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> Very best thing you can do is make the rear grip
> the proper length for what you're going to be
> doing with the rod.
>
> ...........


Exactly.
And in order to make that choice I am trying to gather data to know what would best suit me, as I am quite sure I do not hold all the keys to make that choice yet. So any help on factual benefits of both is very welcome

Mark Talmo Wrote:
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> Luc & others,
> That is why I absolutely love a Tennessee Handle
> for my lighter trout rods; a 12in TH will afford
> 8in-9in of reel position adjustability, is lighter
> and more comfortable than just about everything
> else, and in a pinch, a fly reel can be employed
> as well. ALL of my trout rods will be built with a
> TH from now on! Admittedly, a TH may not be the
> best choice for a tuna stick though!

I thought of it but as I use my reel for two setups currently I though that taping it every time would be very annoying.

Here's what you want to do. Mock up the rod with the reel seat sitting on masking tape bushings. You want a very, very snug fit for this. Get it about where you think is going to be right for you and what you're going to be doing with the rod. Tape up a set of guides, securely and go out and cast it repeatedly, in the manner you'll be casting it for the type fishing you're going to do. Retrieve the cast weight across a lawn so it gives some "pull" that would perhaps mimic a fish, albeit a small one. (Even better - go to the local lake and use it exactly as you plan to once fininshed.) Adjust the reel seat fore and aft by an inch or two as needed. After 30 minutes of this you'll know where the seat needs to be and the rear grip length is then set.

.................

Agree 100% with Tom and said the same in my post on page 1 . All your concerns and questions will be answered after you attach the reel seat temporarily to the rod and attach a reel and tape on some guides and test cast . It's the best way to know you got it right . There is no more accurate way of figuring it out wherever your hands naturally gravitate to while casting will be the spot that is right for you . If you plan on using two separate reels on the same rod that's fine as long as the reels weigh similar to each other your reel seat position won't change.

What's left behind the optimal reel seat location will be the rear handle length whatever length it happens to be there is no such thing as too long or too short when test casting revealed that's the length it should be . There is a lot of too long and too short scenarios when you just take the advice of other people instead of figuring it out yourself.

Luc,
I would not use a Tennessee Handle if tape had to be employed to hold the reel on. I fabricate my own tapered slip rings from hybrid CF / Kevlar woven sleeving. Due to the taper, the rings sit flat on the top of the grip and follow the angle of the reel feet on the bottom and thus do not dig into the handle and hence are extremely comfortable. The taper of the rings also affords a securely mounted reel = I have never experienced a reel coming loose, nore have any of my customers. The key is the taper! I am uncertain if the commercially available slip rings are tapered or simply straight, parallel cut pieces of tubing.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

John Cates Wrote:
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> I fish out of a kayak and like a shorter rear grip
> especially in rivers and streams.


I'ver been involved with the kayak fishing world for about 10 years now. You are correct that the shorter grip (I build 7") is great for yakkers. In the seated position, it is much easier to work plastics, specifically 1/4 oz jigs, with the shorter grip. Result is many more speckled trout.

If you will be casting a lot, grip length is important. The rear grip should be such that when added to the reel seat, and fore grip, the fore grip should be at the balance point of the finished rod when rested on 2 fingers. This reduces the swing weight, reducing fatigue, and increasing sensitivity. A good rule of thumb is 1 inch grip length for ever foot of rod length. Tape the grips in place on the blank, and see how they balance out, with the reel on in the seat. Adjust as required. Having the rod in hand at the balance point allows for a lighter hand grip, when jigging, or just holding the rod while a minnow swims around, again, reducing fatigue, and increasing sensitivity. Alternate theories are welcome. But that's my common sense approach to the issue.

Tight Lines and frisky fish.

RJF

A fishing rod is a type three lever. It maximizes the speed at the end of rod IF you have the strength at your end to accelerate the rod tip. The whippier the rod, the easier it bends, the shorter the effective length of the rod and the less speed it gives the object being cast. You or your rod can't push on a fish line to cast farther, no matter what you believe. The principles of leverage have been understood for over 7,000 years - but not everyone today accepts the principles of leverage, especially as they apply to casting.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/26/2021 01:55PM by Phil Ewanicki.

Phil Ewanicki Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> A fishing rod is a type three lever. It maximizes
> the speed at the end of rod IF you have the
> strength at your end to accelerate the rod tip.
> The whippier the rod, the easier it bends, the
> smaller the effective length of the rod the less
> speed it produces at the business end. You or your
> rod can't push on a fish line to cast farther, no
> matter what you believe. The principles of
> leverage have been understood for over 7,000 years
> - but not everyone believes the principle of
> leverage, especially as it applies to casting.

The rod isn't being used as a lever, as there should be balance between the swing weight before, and after the balance point. However, given the same rotation speed around the balance point, a longer rod will produce more velocity at the tip than will a shorter rod. This energy produced will initially be stored in the rod blank (load the blank), as the forward cast begins. That energy will accelerate the line continuously until the rod blank releases all of the stored energy to the line. A longer rod , because of the higher tip velocity, will certainly transfer more forward energy to the line. This is the reason surf rods are so long. The added length allows for further casting distance.

The answer to the original question though, is that the handle length should create a comfortable grip, at the balance point, to reduce hind and arm fatigue, Proper grip will also allow the user greater sensitivity.

Tight lines and frisky fish

RJF

The fish rod, by definition, is a lever. You can look it up - search for "type 3 lever" - or abandon 7,000 years of science in favor of personal belief.

I stand corrected - ; a fishing pole is a class three lever. That being said, what I stated is still true. As per this site - [plaza.ufl.edu], "This kind of lever requires the use of more effort to move the load;
However, the result is that the load can be lifted a larger distance in a shorter amount of time (Gega, 1990). A longer lever, with the same rotational speed around its fulcrum, will Have a higher tip velocity, resulting in further casting distance. Of course it takes more applied force to move that longer lever.

Tight lines and frisky fish
.

RJF