Hey,

I am building my second rod, a perch finesse spinning rod 7.2 revelation ML blank 1/8-3/8oz lure rating.
I used the technique I found here to find the grip length, one inch or so away from the elbow. I ended up with a 13 inches grip.

From what I gathered the main benefits of a long grip are :
Casting distance
Balance
Better fighting capabilities

what would be the benefits of having a shorter grip?

Luc

Edit : spinning rod



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/14/2021 01:49AM by Luc siat.

Hi Lucas, it so happens I am working on a build with that exact blank, and the handle will be exactly the same length (though very minimalist in its design). As far as the benefits of a shorter handle, all I can come up with are:

1) Allows a longer reach,
2) Uses less materials.

I follow this thread with interest, as someone who has always preferred rods with longer handles.

One benefit of shorter grips is that it tangles less in clothing in cold weather. It's also dependent on the type of fishing you're going to be doing. For example, I prefer a shorter handle on a jerkbait rod for ease of working the bait.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/13/2021 06:59AM by Nick McCasey.

Eric Garza Wrote:
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> Hi Lucas, it so happens I am working on a build
> with that exact blank, and the handle will be
> exactly the same length (though very minimalist in
> its design). As far as the benefits of a shorter
> handle, all I can come up with are:
>
> 1) Allows a longer reach,
> 2) Uses less materials.
>
> I follow this thread with interest, as someone who
> has always preferred rods with longer handles.


Ahah such a coincidence, well I am building it for weight as well so it will be a very minimal split grip meaning no additional weight on that aspect. I hope to end around 8.5oz reel included.
What do you intend to use the blank for?

Nick McCasey Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> One benefit of shorter grips is that it tangles
> less in clothing in cold weather. It's also
> dependent on the type of fishing you're going to
> be doing. For example, I prefer a shorter handle
> on a jerkbait rod for ease of working the bait.

Would you still tangle if it does not go above your forearm length?
Okay I see, i still have trouble seeing which techniques benefit which grip length, so if you have more info on that I ll gladly take them!

Luc

Some of it comes down to personal preference, but for anything I might have to really work a bait (walking baits, jerkbaits, etc.) I prefer the shorter handle (say mid fore-arm). Anytime I might need to pull a fish out of heavy cover, I go for the longer handle (punching jigs, T-rigs, etc.)

With me the tangling on the clothing occurs when going from tip up to down and vice versa. I once made a rod from stock components and had the problem. I took only about an inch off the butt and no problems since. Indicating that a minor length difference can make a big difference in function. Of course it depends on the clothing, so one may buy a minor problem with rain gear if he doesn't wear it often. It is the distance between the reel stem and the butt that I'm talking about, and I think I settled on about 13 a long time ago, too.

I will use it for trout, panfish, and perhaps light bass fishing. I opted for a skeleton reel seat (Fuji's SKSS), a 4-inch fighting but made of burl cork, and SeaGuide HLG guides with stainless rings and their Adaman coating. I do not know what the total weight will be yet, but can report back once the finish dries.

I fish out of a kayak and like a shorter rear grip especially in rivers and streams.

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

Luc, I assume this is a spinning rod you are talking about. When you say a 13” handle, is that from butt to back end of reel seat or to the front end of the reel seat? It makes a difference discussing handle length. Also the functional length of the handle is influenced by reel seat position. For example, with the same length rear grip, when the reel seat is mounted down locking the handle is functionally shorter and the rod is functionally longer then when mounted up locking. Those extra few inches can make a difference in how the handle and rod function, and also in guide placement. I like my reel seats mounted in the down locking position. I’ve built rods for people whole like very short handles, and others that like them extra long. I find a handle length I like for a certain rod, and go with it. Handle length is personal preference, and one of the things that makes a custom rod custom.
Norm

Physical benefits (un-disputable facts)

1) Less materials, (grip material,adhesive, other expendables)
2) Less time in turning and fitting.
3) Less weight

Functional and performance benefits (subjective);

Hard to list because these benefits evolve from the preference or needs of the user and the application of the rod. Benefits listed here will be based mainly on personal experience and preference.

No doubt there will be numerous benefits listed all of which are valid but it will be up to the reader to sort them out.

Most of my fishing is from a canoe and small Jon boat so I use a short grip rod because it is easier to handle in close quarters..

Have fun

10 ft. long steelhead rods of your power only have 12 inch rear grips in spinning configuration. Long grips to me are necessary in your length only when the build gets heavy like a surf rod, etc. Where the blank alone weighs more than your entire build. For your build I would be hard pressed to exceed a 10 inch grip, you are going to be casting a lot one handed, at least I do even with much longer and heavier rods. I also personally think any length I have in front of my hand helps casting far more than a double hand in your situation, the casting arc is longer and faster the more rod you have in front of you, a longer distance over the same time.

I agree with you, Spencer.

My typical grip is between 8 and 10 inches.

As much as anything else, I prefer a balanced rod with no added weight.


So, if the rod is longer I make the rear grip longer to balance the rod without making it heavier.

When casting, I always use a two handed cast, so one rod is on the reel and the other hand is on the butt of the rod - no matter the length of the rear grip. As a result of my casting method, I lose no distance with respect to lever arm distance for casting distance.

P.S. If you commonly cast with one hand - consider using both hands when casting. You increase both your casting distance by a good amount and you also improve your overall lure control.

This fact was brought to me one day when my buddy and I were out on the big river fishing. We had anchored near a wing dam to get to the fish that lurked on both sides of the wing dam. There was one spot in particular that was holding a bunch of fish - but was out of reach for my rod, line, and lure configuration. But, my buddy was casting to that spot with ease. I thought - "Why is he getting to that spot, but I can't reach it. We both had the same jig on our lines. Both of use were using rods similar in length, action and power. We were both using identical fishing line. I also noticed that when he cast - I would always hear a whistling noise coming from his setup as he cast. Even though I looked at his casts, I was overlooking the fact that he was using both hands. So, I asked him - Why the extra distance? He replied, "Two hands". Of course, then I honed in on the fact that he - in fact that he was using both hands when casting. It simply did not register when I looked at his technique that we was using both of his hands. My brain saw him casting and it did not bring the fact that he was using both hands up to my conscious thought process. So, of course, I tried casting with both hands and in all of the trips and years since, I have not stopped casting with both hands. Two hand casting simply works much better with more distance and much better control than using a single hand. If you don't already - give it a try and see what you think. - Also, when casting, always keep one hand on the butt of the rod when casting, and you will find that you never get the rod butt - no matter the length - tangled in clothing.

I never worry about clothing with respect to issues with respect to the rear grip. If a grip is extra long - for what ever reason - I just tuck the grip under my arm and enjoy the day on the water.

In past years, have used very short rear grips and then added weight in the butt of the rod to balance the rod, but at the end of the day - it is simply not a sensible solution to the problem. All day long casting, one is dealing with the extra weight in the rod.

But, to each his own.

Enjoy.

I don't think everyone is talking about the same issue and is not using terms with the same definitions. Let's get specific. Luc, where is your 13 inches measured from, the reel stem, the back of the reel seat, the front of the reel seat, where? If you define that then maybe everyone can be talking about the same thing. The important dimension is not from the end of the reel seat, it's not the length of cork behind the reel seat, it's from where your hand is placed on the rod, most likely very near the stem of the reel.

That's why both Roger and myself specified rear grip length in our posts, reel seats and reel feet are not measurable on an individual basis so I disregard such info for the most part unless I have everything on hand. Rear grips are always a constant.

I don't think I have ever attempted to cast a fishing rod with one hand , at least I can't think of any time I did even as a youngster . While inshore rods don't have the much longer butt of surf rods I still still always use two hands to cast them . I don't get the ultimate leverage with a shorter rear grip but even with that being the case I know it's tens times more efficient then attempting to cast with one hand.

I do what Roger mentioned when casting which is one hand on the very end of the butt and one hand slightly above the stem of the reel . no issues with clothes . My belief is to always tape on the reel to the blank and go through the motions, move it up and down it will become very clear when you find that perfect spot . Too short a rear grip is just as annoying as having an overly long grip . This is something that you really got to get right so take your time.

If Luc’s rear grip behind the reel seat is actually 13” long I would consider it extremely long for a 7’2” rod. If it’s 13” to the front of the reel seat, it would be more in the ‘normal’ range.That is the reason I asked how he measured the grip.
Norm

Norman Miller Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Luc, I assume this is a spinning rod you are
> talking about. When you say a 13” handle, is
> that from butt to back end of reel seat or to the
> front end of the reel seat? It makes a difference
> discussing handle length. Also the functional
> length of the handle is influenced by reel seat
> position. For example, with the same length rear
> grip, when the reel seat is mounted down locking
> the handle is functionally shorter and the rod is
> functionally longer then when mounted up locking.
> Those extra few inches can make a difference in
> how the handle and rod function, and also in guide
> placement. I like my reel seats mounted in the
> down locking position. I’ve built rods for
> people whole like very short handles, and others
> that like them extra long. I find a handle length
> I like for a certain rod, and go with it. Handle
> length is personal preference, and one of the
> things that makes a custom rod custom.
> Norm

Hey Norman,

Yes it is a spinning rod I am mentioning and I am measuring from the end of the butt to the stem of the reel.
Of course, the intention of the post is not to follow the preferences of others but to measure the true benefits of each type of grip. I will then use the information to settle on my choice.

John DeMartini Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Physical benefits (un-disputable facts)
>
> 1) Less materials, (grip material,adhesive, other
> expendables)
> 2) Less time in turning and fitting.
> 3) Less weight
>
>

Well in my case if I built with a split grip, I will not have those problems. Though I will have to keep it the same size as if I was doing a small split grip

Michael Danek Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I don't think everyone is talking about the same
> issue and is not using terms with the same
> definitions. Let's get specific. Luc, where is
> your 13 inches measured from, the reel stem, the
> back of the reel seat, the front of the reel seat,
> where? If you define that then maybe everyone can
> be talking about the same thing. The important
> dimension is not from the end of the reel seat,
> it's not the length of cork behind the reel seat,
> it's from where your hand is placed on the rod,
> most likely very near the stem of the reel.

Yes sorry I missed adding the information. It is measured from the butt to the stem. I personally grip it with the pinky behind and the rest in front and that make the butt end up about one inch from the elbow.