I use the bottle stoppers with my rod coat finish after watching these covid vaccine events on tv i saw that they shoot some air into the container before they load the syringe so i tried it and now i don't get bubbles .with the container under pressure.

David,
That is a good observation and thanks for sharing. I simply insert the syringe, which already has residual epoxy or hardener within the stem / point of the syringe from the previous use, into the bottle, turn everything upside-down for 20-30 seconds, draw out the required amount and shoot it into the mixing cup. I think the main point is to invert the bottle / syringe for a few seconds to avoid @#$%& an air bubble into the syringe.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Another option is to use the tapered caps. I cut them at the point where the syringe fits into the taper. Eliminated the need for the bottle stoppers.

I simply put in the syringe, tilt the bottle as needed and fill the syringe with more material than you plan to use. Then, when holding up the syringe, simply push in the plunger until all of the air is out of the syringe and use as desired.

Simple, no extra hardware to use or clean up.

Take care

No syringes needed here. I have measuring cups for eyeballs. I dump it into the cup and pray for the best results. I am wondering why I am still waiting two months later for this darn rod to dry. Any suggestions lol.

Ancelmo,
Use syringes to measure the parts A and B exactly.

Then, after putting in the mixing cups, be sure to slowly mix for at least 120 seconds or 2 minutes.

It is not good enough to mix for a few seconds and stopping when the epoxy looks mixed.

Also, when mixing, frequently wipe off the mixing stick on the side of the mixing cup and scrape it off and back into the mix to be sure that every part of the mix gets well mixed.

Then, when drying, try to have the drying area at least 70 degrees, and preferably closer to 90 degrees. Heat helps epoxy to cure more quickly.

Good luck

Ancelmo,
Use syringes to measure the parts A and B exactly.

Then, after putting in the mixing cups, be sure to slowly mix for at least 120 seconds or 2 minutes.

It is not good enough to mix for a few seconds and stopping when the epoxy looks mixed.

Also, when mixing, frequently wipe off the mixing stick on the side of the mixing cup and scrape it off and back into the mix to be sure that every part of the mix gets well mixed.

Then, when drying, try to have the drying area at least 70 degrees, and preferably closer to 90 degrees. Heat helps epoxy to cure more quickly.

Good luck

I have found if I draw up ma little bit of finish, then squirt it back into the bottle and then draw the amt. needed into the syringe it eliminates bubbles. I think the bubbles in the syringe are coming from the air in the syringe tip. Even if the plunger in the syringe is all the way down, there is still air in the tip so when withdrawing finish, the bubble is the air that is in the tip. The reason nurses inject air into the vial of medication before withdrawing the med isn't to avoid bubbles. If the vial is a multiple dose vial and air isn't injected before withdrawing...it makes it hard to get the medication out due to the lack of air pressure. So, nurses inject the same amt. of air as the art of medication they will withdraw. 1cc of air...1cc of med.

I use pumps and nothing other than pumps, I'm just not big on guess work , Then too, its a lot in what you git used to.

hahaha...Paul...tell that to the next Doc who orders an injectable med and the nurse who gives it. A syringe is for sure not "guess work."

I do as Todd does. There is always air trapped at the syringe end. Inject a small portion back into the bottle and wait for the bubbles to rise. Draw as much as you need into the syringe. Common sense.

As I said, if I want an opinion I ask a human , if I want an exact repeatable, I employ a machine. Go with whatever works for you .

Humans make the machines. I don't want to cause any contention on here at all but millions of peoples lives are entrusted to syringes every day. I have used them in my job for nearly 40 years. If the person using the syringe is in the game, the outcome will be right. Even when using pumps to deliver meds the med is first drawn out of a vial with a syringe and injected into a bag and then the pump is used to deliver the med exactly over a time. My opinion is that as far as finish mixing goes, syringes are the most simple as well as accurate. But, only if the person drawing up the parts is thinking.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/13/2021 09:51AM by Todd Andrizzi.

As we are talking bubbles...some have mentioned bubbles in the stirred finish. I almost always have them but I don't try and stir slow. I just get the two mixed very well and then transfer it into an aluminum tray. I've found that just blowing air onto the finish makes the bubbles gone. I am assuming it's my hot air. If you all have hot air, try it. Just don't spit into the mixture. I used to flash the heat gun over the mixture...easier to blow.

Todd,
I 2nd your correment about mixing finish.
I place equal parts of A and B finish in a mixing cup and then mix for 120 seconds using a craft stick - wiping it off frequently on the edge of the cup to insure that 100% of the mixing cup's comments are well mixed.
I do not worry about the speed of my mixing. I also do not worry about the presence of any bubbles in the mix. After mixing, I start at one end of the rotating rod and apply enough finish to insure complete coverage on all parts of the rod needing finish. i.e. butt wraps and guide wraps.

Then, I go back over each wrap with a heat gun and give each wrap a flash of heat to essentially cause the finish to thin and to flow very readily - releasing any bubbles that might happen to be in the finish.

I never breath or blow on a finish, because it simply does not make any sense to do it and possibly inducing moisture or other contaminants into the finish. A heat gun will supply any necessary hot air - if that is what is needed for the particular wrap.

Then, I go back a 2nd time with a magnifying head band and a very bright light doing a close inspection on every wrap and butt wrap for a perfect finish making any necessary corrections at that time. Then, I leave it alone for the final cure.

After an overnight rotation, I go over the rod a final time for a pre shipment inspection and if all is well it is ready to be shipped. So, one coat of standard build flex coat is my go to finish and it simply works very well for me. By only having to go through one drying cycle, I cut a day off my ship time for completed rods.

Best wishes.

I guess I don't understand how "pumps" are used. Todd, the CO2 in your breath removes the bubbles.

Thanks, Lynn. I always thought it was all the hot air my wife tells me about. I don't blow on the finish after its on the rod...just after the initial mixing before transferring to the aluminum cup.

I've been crafting and wrapping fly rods for 26 years, as a hobby. Back when I first started, and for quite a few years, I used the syringes provided by Flex Coat. I had too many bad mixes using those syringes. So for probably at least 15 years now, I've been using a 1.2 ml (1/4 TSP) stainless steel measuring spoon; of the type commonly used for cooking. I guess I've built about 50 rods using the spoon without a single mixing failure: knock wood. It appears the syringes now being used are much better designed than back then, but for me, no reason to change. I mix slowly for 3-4 minutes, using about 100 intermittent clockwise and 100 counter clockwise circular turns. I omit bubbles by gently blowing through a short piece of drinking straw.

Sorry I'm late to this topic, but because my method is somewhat different, I thought I should contribute. Jack

While working for Lockheed, we used epoxy to partially fill a part of the cannon plug connectors. The epoxy resin, and hardener were measured out by weight, mixed by hand for three minutes, then allowed to sit for another 5 minutes to release all bubbles. Everything had to be exact, as the epoxy filling was the second-stage protections from sea water entering the deep submersible. Fortunately, with Gen 4 epoxy, it is so much easier to use, as it quickly releases bubbles. In addition, you can measure by volume, rather than weight. The amount of resin and hardener need to be equal, but not to the degree that Lockheed demanded. Just be sure to mix thoroughly, asp per directions listed abpve.

Tight lines and frisky fish.

RJF