Hey!

I am currently building a 1/8-3/8oz rod 7'2" for perch and I am trying to achieve somewhat of a light build.
(micro guides + 5.6oz ci4 stradic 1000 + 1.9oz rainshadow blank)

My question is: Apart from the rubberized cork butt end, is there a real durability benefit in adding burl/rubberized cork accent on the grips or is it purely cosmetic?
Looked everywhere for the information could not find it.

I use it often, always on the butt knob of my split grip builds. A 1/4 inch ring will not affect weight significantly and it is a lot tougher than plain cork. Necessary? Probably not. But it looks good and has to provide a measure of assurance that the rod is not fragile. It depends also on how a rod will be used and treated. I'm pretty easy on mine compared to what I've seen.

Hey Michael,

I plan to have rubberized cork on the end of the butt grip, for the same reasons you mentioned.
I was mostly wondering for burl/rubber cork on the extremities of split grip/front grips like what can be seen on the G.loomis dropshot rods for example. Any thoughts on that?

Luc,
I almost always use a 1/2 inch rubberized cork at the butt end of the rod and a 1/4 inch wide cork at the top end of the grip. Tough and makes a nice contrast on the grip.

If you like, you can use rubberized cork for the entire grip - but it will be HEAVY.

The rubber glue that holds rubberized cork together is pretty heavy.

Best wishes

You can always core a grip - rubberized, composite or wood, with a rigid urethane foam core to reduce the weight by up to 70%. Good custom rod builders should have as many tricks up their sleeves as possible.

..........

Not needed, just eye candy.

Luc,
As the other replies correctly state, rubberized (or burnt?) cork is not really needed but tougher than plain, regular cork and is heavier. I use the rubberized cork tape covered with X-flock shrink tubing for many of my saltwater builds because it is so durable, quick and easy to repair/replace and weight is not as much of a concern. While I do employ rubberized cork “trim” on freshwater builds from time to time, I am not a huge fan in favor of plain ‘ol regular cork. For protection of a plain cork butt, I like the “butt plugs” or a short length of clear shrink tubing.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Thank you for your answers,

My original plan was plain cork for the grip (split) with part of the butt being rubberized and each end of the split and front grip being burl cork.
But it will be heavier than a plain cork with a rubberized butt.
So if it serves no purpose apart from decoration I thought it might not be useful, hence my question.

Luc

Luc, speaking specifically for the ends of the cork components other than the butt knob, I have done it both ways and have had no problems with chipping or anything else with plain cork.. But I don't use rod holders. That might make a difference. Making the decision based on weight is, in my opinion, a wasted worry. The difference will be insignificant for just a couple 1/4 inch rings, which is what I use.

Luc,
Another place where I will use rubberized cork is when building a grip and reel seat that due to design, the cork ends up being very thin.

Rubberized cork is really really tough. As a result, if doing a grip design, where the finished product results in some areas of very thin material, rubberized cork is the perfect material.

Very very tough, and very very durable. Because the area is thin - weight is not an issue.

Examples of rubberized cork as trim:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

If you like the looks of it, use it. There really is no down side either way. Personally I like the look of the rubberized or burl cork used as a trim. Go with what you like. After all it is your rod.
Norm

Cork and rubber gasket sheet can make nice trim rings that compliment burl or rubbized cork:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

[www.google.com]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/10/2021 02:50PM by Ladd Flock.

If weight is an issue, there is absolutely no reason that you cannot make a grip from rubberized/composite cork, or even wood, as light or lighter than regular cork. Here's how: [www.rodbuilding.org]

.......

Tom Kirkman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> If weight is an issue, there is absolutely no
> reason that you cannot make a grip from
> rubberized/composite cork, or even wood, as light
> or lighter than regular cork. Here's how:
> [www.rodbuilding.org]
>
>
> .......

That is amazing! If only i had known for my first rod. For this one it won't work as the burl will be used as trim and will be only 8-11 mm. As the weight difference will be extremely minimal I'll settle with 3 small burl trims on the cork grip. Thank you all for your help!

It is very difficult to draw the line between making a rod light and overkilling it (my question on forhan wrap being too heavy for example haha)

Luc