Why are Fuji KTs available up to size 10 while KBs are only available to size 6? With the larger foot of the KB, I would think it should be the other way around.
While 95% of my saltwater rods employ conventional reels, I would like to build a 20lb live-bait spinning rod utilizing a 4000 size reel with 50lb braid. As many of you might suspect, I am using a vintage Conolon blank that has a 9/64in tip which limits the smallest tip top to a size 8 ring. My preferred guide selection would be; KL-25H, 12H, 8M followed by KB 8s out to a size 8 MN or MG tip top. Although the KT 8s would get the job done, if not a bit sketchy at the mid-rod stress area, I would prefer the stoutness of the KBs. While I could (and probably will) use KL-25H, 12H, 6L or M followed by KB-6 runners, the tip top would still have to be a size 8, one size larger than the runners. I have had to use tip tops larger than the runners before, but it simply looks odd even if minimal, if any, performance would be lost or noticed.
I have never used the L runners and with only a single leg / brace, it looks even lighter-duty than the KTs and am also uncertain if they are available in CC corrosion control finish.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

The foot on the size 7 and 8 and10 KTs are plenty long, wide, and strong enough for most fishing applications. As the ring size of KTs gets larger the foot also gets proportional larger. You get to a point of diminishing return.
Norm

Norman,
Thank you for your knowledgeable and informative reply;. I can always rely upon you. I have only used size 5 KTs for (barely) micro builds and it seems reasonable the foot size will increase with the ring size. While it is safe to say most guides are much stronger than required, I would feel more comfortable using the stouter foot of the KBs, especially in the mid-rod stress area for this 20lb, live-bait rod; granted it is not a tuna stick but it is certainly more than an UL trout rod. It appears to me the single-foot L guides (which I have not used) are less stout than the KBs = is that correct?

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

The KB/KT guides are stouter than the L guides. It’s the double brace on the KB/KT guides that gives them a little extra strength, but probably makes them slightly heavier.
Norm

Norman,
Thank you again. While weight is always of concern, especially the further out toward the tip, strength / durability of the guide train is a higher priority with this application. I try to adhere to “Form Follows Function” so, at this point, I am leaning toward KB-6 runners even though I will end up with a size 8 tip top; something for me to lose sleep over the next few nights lol. While yours is ALWAYS a valued veteran opinion to me, I was hoping for other input as well, even if only to make me lose more sleep.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

JIM ?!?!?

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

I like KB's to the top on heavier set-ups. Blank diameter seems to be the indicator for me. If the blank diameter is big enough (all the way to the tip) to support the wider foot of the KB, it's usually a powerful enough blank to "need" KB. At those power levels the weight of KB vs KT is a moot discussion. Take advantage of the little "wicking port" between the legs of the frame, but don't create a big "web" of epoxy there...just enough to flow through and touch the blank ahead of the guide. That's what it's there for.

Jim Ising Wrote:
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>.... Take advantage of the little
> "wicking port" between the legs of the frame, but
> don't create a big "web" of epoxy there...just
> enough to flow through and touch the blank ahead
> of the guide. That's what it's there for.

Funny that, and so many builders try and avoid it. Fuji put it there for a reason.
The KT7's I typically use on 1-4oz surf plugging rods have not let me down once.

Hey Brandon, yes it is a design feature often overlooked in the K-series runners but I think it is equally used incorrectly. When I say "no web", there is a good reason you don't want a "web" there. Too much epoxy will set up a situation where the guide foot can become a fulcrum that forces that little "web" upward and "pops" the epoxy off the blank under load. That is an invitation to moisture intrusion and problems down the road. When you coat the foot at the base of the frame, allow a tiny bit of epoxy to flow forward through the port until it just touches the blank ahead of the guide. I sometimes push a little bit through with a toothpick. That "film" of epoxy is considerably stronger than most people think and can add a measure of strength that will make "pop-outs" much less likely. If I get too much epoxy oozing through the port (which I often do with these old eyes), I will "floss" out the web with a short piece of clean thread. Billy Vivona showed me the technique mostly as a cosmetic thing but it works beautifully for making sure a little bit of epoxy remains wrapped around the front of the guide.

I should let you build my surf rods, Brandon. I had a runner on a surf rod pop out just the other day but when I looked at it closely it was one where I missed the "port technique" completely.