I just saw something interesting by accident regarding the application of decals. The gentleman doing the video mentioned that the blank he was about to apply the decal to was an NFC blank. He mentioned the fact that these blanks are ribbed, and that you cannot successfully apply decals to these blanks "as is" (my words) because of this. He suggested that one needs to apply a thin coat of epoxy first to level the section of the blank where the decal will be applied, and ultimately apply the decal over that.

Since I have never built on an NFC blank before, is this so?

Yes.

The "ribbing" is stepped and will make air lines under your labels unless you place a thin finish layer down first. There is another way which involves cutting the label but I wouldn't suggest that as it is harder to get desired results and easy to damage the blank. The Gator series blanks seen on Mudhole have the same effect to the labels as well.

I’ve had no problems applying the NFC decals to the unfinished blank. Like many decals, the NFC decal is sandwiched between two plastic layers. The first is removed to stick the decal to the blank. The second top layer is used to protect the decal while you burnish it to the blank, then it is peeled off and finish applied. If done correctly no bubbles or corners lifting. Of course it does not hurt to put down a layer of finish first and then burnish the decal to the finish. Just an extra step. Your choice, but both ways work well.
Norm

Batson's Revelation slow pitch jig blanks have similar "ribbing" and depending on the effect I want, I sometimes apply a run of black "A" thread the length of the decal with decorative thread work each end (as a picture frame), apply a very thin coat of epoxy and after curing, apply the decal, then another light coat of epoxy to protect the decal- it really pops! Of course, I would only suggest this if weight is not an issue. Also, this won't work if the decal lettering is black. On rod blanks where the ribbing is very pronounced, I've had difficulty getting a level coat with just the epoxy. It seems the epoxy just wants to create an even thickness over each peak and valley (camming)- it's not as bad as uncoated but still a little bumpy. With the layer of thread, I don't have this issue. Maybe it's just my screwed up technique, but it works for me..

Ernie,
Although I have not built on a ribbed blank, I can see possible difficulties applying decals due to them having to flex in two directions (compound bend); axley around the circumference of the blank and radially over the humps and valleys of the ribs. Apparently, Norman has no problem.
I always apply a thin coat of epoxy on the blank under my decals for three reasons; 1. It fills any porosity on the surface of the blank which might leave tiny air bubbles under the decal, 2. It affords a very clean surface for the decal to stick to, 3. If there is any contamination on the blank, it becomes immediately obvious and easier to deal with at that point rather than after the decal is applied, possibly ruining the decal. If I am not mistaken, Decal Connection suggests applying a coat of epoxy on the blank prior to application of their decals.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

They are merely speculating they can’t apply the decals successfully....... I’ve done numerous decals on ribbed blanks with no base layer, meaning directly applying to bare blank. Stick it on slap on the finish and don’t look back

Yup , Decal connection does indeed recommend applying a thin coat of epoxy before using the decals and it works incredibly well . When I purchase decals from them I always purchase at least two because I sometimes screw the first attempt up . Saves me the time ordering a second and waiting for it to be delivered.

I find an increased propensity for I can't over the last few decades, it'really I won't, or I won't even try.

I'm with Norman on my experience with NFC blanks. I've only built on 4 of their blanks and found their decals pretty good. As Chris said, Decal connection insists for proper application of their decals to use color preserver or a layer of finish. I use CP. I really like decal connection stuff. Ernie, if you had any concerns about your NFC decal, I's just put down a layer of CP. My opinion is laying down a layer of epoxy is more invasive.

I built 4 NFC X-ray blanks so far. I did not like seeing the lines under the label on my first one. Very small but not what I desired. I took exception and changed tactics and have been coating them first since then.

[www.rodbuilding.org]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/22/2021 04:38PM by Aaron Petersen.

I don't remember Decal connection mentioning using CP but I have heard other people on this forum mentioning using CP with decals .



From Decal Connections website:



THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!

Before you begin the application process, place a thin coat of epoxy on the blank where you will be placing the decal and let dry.

This step provides a flawless surface for the decal to adhere to. Without this step, we do not guarantee decal.
The decal will come pre-cut to size with excess decal material removed from it.
The decal itself comes sandwiched between the backing and a top carrier sheet. This allows you to handle the decal without touching its adhesive side and only touching the carrier sheet.

Just what I was hoping for....opinions 180 degrees from each other! :-)

Aaron....what does "coating" mean? Epoxy?

Yes. A vey thin layer of finish.

We all find different ways to make it work for us. Dont get discouraged by differences in the responses. Try them all and see what works best for you.

Ernie,
Different builders experience different issues and discover different methods to overcome those issues. Anyone ready, willing and able to digest, decipher and decide what works best for themselves will benefit.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Aaron Petersen Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Yes. A vey thin layer of finish.
>
> We all find different ways to make it work for us.
> Dont get discouraged by differences in the
> responses. Try them all and see what works best
> for you.


There you have it , "Try them all to see what works best for you"

To try them all you must have more than a single decal which is why you should have backups .

It has not been mentioned, but the ribs sand off quite easily in the area you wish to apply the decal.

I have always put a "base layer" prior to putting on the decal. It's always produced a quality application for myself. Never had one lift either or used CP. Just me