Mark (Talmo), i made my first CARL..I think..i have a bunch of fiber glass pieces left over from making telescopic rods, so i thought i would turn a seven foot one piece light power glass rod into two pieces using youur CARL furrel or at least my version..lol..i think it came out pretty good..it leaves a much smaller flat spot in the rod than the normal tipover butt and easy to make if you have the material..my question: is a 2 1/4" overall spigot too short and 2 1/4" sleeve too short? i have not glued anything up and probably don,t have to, just fit the parts snug..i figure CARL is based on keeping these parts short so as to have shorter flat spots in the rod flex..or would it be better to trim these parts back to 2" overall?..Thanks for any tips or corrections..maybe i should mention that the furrel is located three feet from the rod butt(rod diameter is about 9 1/2 milimeters)..



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/13/2021 11:29AM by ben belote.

Ben,
It is nice to learn someone is taking advantage of the fruits of my labor (CARL). Unless your rod is over a 20lb rating, 2.25in for the external Sleeve ferrule will be adequate. Make the internal spigot ferrule shorter, say 2in to distribute any forces at the ends of both ferrules over a larger area of the blank itself. While it may not be required/prudent to do so, it should make logical sense.
After developing the basic CARL process over three years ago, I have refined the procedure (mostly with the removal process). The revised procedure should be available very soon in RodMaker magazine.
Please keep me posted on your experience with producing a CARL. I am always here to answer questions, afford support or just plain ‘ol listen.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Ben,
By the way, if you followed the CARL building procedure using the blank itself as the mold for the ferrules, they will inherently have the same, identical taper and do not require bonding to one of the blank sections; actually, NOT bonding will produce less interference with the natural flex curve of the blank.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Thanks for the tips Mark..just a few more questions..for the spigot i used a piece of tubular E-glass..should i have used a solid glass spigot? and i like the idea of not gluing but was wondering if the constant flexing action of the rod may cause the outer sleeve to work loose? so far i,m a convert to the Talmo ferrule and find it to be quite clever..one can not see this until you make one..i,m looking forward to the Rod Maker article..Thanks for sharing it.

Ben,
I do not understand why you would make a CARL sleeve ferrule yet not the CARL spigot as well? You will be lucky indeed if the tubular E-glass you used for the spigot is even close to the same taper as the blank; that is one of the beauties of CARL = the tapers are inherently identical to the blank. Because the CARL tapers are identical to the blank, the ferrules/rod sections will not work loose.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Mark..the spigot and sleeve parts all came from rods i used to make telescopic rods..all these rods were the same model and spec glass rods as the one piece rod i am now making a two piecer..all the pieces went together perfectly, no slop..if there is no slop, your saying the sleeve will not walk or move from the flexing of the rod...i was not sure because everything is so short and no glue is used..Thanks again.. another thought: it seems to me if you cut the spigot and oversleeve from a rod similar in length to the rod your adding ferrules to, the taper should be close enough..especially for such short pieces.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/15/2021 03:29PM by ben belote.

Ben,
You are almost certainly correct that the “…same model and spec glass rods…” will produce matching tapers for the sleeve and spigot ferrules. While not the first to use a same-make-and-model sacrificial blank to produce spigots (but not outer sleeves) for a multi-piece rod, I have done so myself with good results although I am very careful not to over-stress the tiny spigots. However, producing the sleeve ferrule from a sacrificial blank would probably be too stiff due to the wall thickness; it would certainly work but may create flat spots in the flex curve of the blank similar to regular, ‘ol metal sleeve ferrules. CARL utilizes one ply (.016in thick) woven FG sleeve material for the outer sleeve ferrule and two plies for the spigot; the combined wall thickness of both ferrules is similar to the wall thickness of the actual blank and has virtually nil affect on the natural flex curve.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Mark, i do not like working with epoxy any more than i have to and i don,t think i,m the only one..ever since you introduced CARL the response has been very luke warm at best..i think it,s a great idea and worth doing if only there is a way to work around making molds..that,s why i was trying to shorten the ferrule as much as possible by using blank pieces..i got it down to 2" overall but am running out of friction which is needed to hold everything together..i would like to get down to a 1 1/2" ferrule overall but i do not believe it will stay together when casting..i know i,m going to get some flatening..i,m just trying to keep it minimal..you said you made some changes in the process so i.m looking foreward to reading your article.. i just remembered a question: did you in creating the CARL ferrule have a friction issue as i just discribed and if so how did you solve it? Thanks.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/16/2021 10:08AM by ben belote.

Ben,
Anyone able to apply epoxy to a thread-wrap can easily produce a CARL! The process is quite similar. Yes, the response has been “luke warm” which is admittedly disappointing considering the astounding benefits and time spent developing the procedure. None the less, for those who try it, they will never turn back. There is no “making molds”; the actual blank simply IS the mold! While cutting sections of a sacrificial blank to produce the sleeve and spigot ferrules will work, they will be ultimately be inferior to CARL.
There has never been an issue with CARL holding the rod pieces together; their inherently identical mating tapers insure they remain securely connected as with Morse-tapers found in machinery.
Most of the CARL procedure modifications over the past 3 years have dealt with the removal process, not with the general assembly process.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

OK, sounds good Mark..i will definitly give it a try..Thanks.