The recent posts concerning single-foot guide pull-out and thread locking wraps to avoid such prompted me to post this question which I have considered for quite some time; why are there those builders who rely upon CP to fill the tunnels under the thread-warps and next to the guide feet rather than a much more substantial, structural material such as thread finish epoxy? Coming from the structural composite/epoxy industry, we always strived for the ultimate/optimum bonding agent and acrylic (CP) falls way short in that respect compared to epoxy (even though our thread finish is not really a structural epoxy). Although I have never experienced guide pull-out, I employ locking wraps simply because I can and it shows I was conscientious enough to do so. It seems rod builders are habitually splitting-hairs with so many other aspects of rod construction that it puzzles me as to why anything less than epoxy to fill the tunnels would be accepted. I realize there are those who employ CP because they use regular nylon thread; that is probably the most important reason I typically use NCP. None the less, I am here to learn.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Neither CP nor epoxy will prevent single foot guide pull out if enough force is placed upon the guide due to any sort of straight-away pull force. This is why Rich Forhan, arguably the most influential custom rod builder of the past 30 years, developed his signature locking wrap.

Filling the tunnels is important, not so much to prevent pull out, but to prevent guide shift and water intrusion. Either CP or epoxy will work nearly equally for those purposes. But, some CP's allow water absorption so I would suggest having epoxy in the tunnel or encapsulating it.

.............

since the guide sits on top of a curved surface, the best way to prevent guide shift is with forhan locking wraps to stabilize the end of the guide that will get bumped ..if the ringdoes not move, there is no guide shift..sometimes when a guide is bumped it gets rocked to one side breaking the CP or epoxy seal making it easier for water to get under the wrap..locking wraps keep the gude from rocking too much if at all..tall guides are easier to rock..for this reason i try using short guides or no tall guides at all..it can be done especially if you use braid for spin fishing..but if you use mono type lines, the tall guides are needed..they don,t have to be so tall and be sure to lock them in place..luckily when guides are bumped the whole rod is moved so the blow isn,t totally taken by the guide..yet..lol.

I like the look of regular nylon or polyester, the sheen, so I don't use no-CP thread usually. I will for very light colors. No-CP threads don't seem to have that sheen I like. Therefore I use CP, two coats, so it's probably CP that's filling the tunnels. I use the locking wrap and totally encapsulate the wrap with epoxy and have not had any guide pull outs or shifts. Seems to be working and giving the sheen I like.