David Baylor Wrote:
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> It's easy to have a tip heavy rod using small
> guides. Some blanks are more tip heavy than
> others. I have a rod built on an Immortal IMMC72MH
> blank that I have a split rear grip on it using
> EVA foam as the grip material. It was tip heavy
> before I even started putting guides on it.
>
> Anyhow, as far as locking wraps go. I used them on
> 2 rods that I've built, but that's it. As others
> have said it is easy to do, and the amount of
> weight it adds will never be felt. You're talking
> 3 wraps of thread on every guide you put it on. As
> far as the added weight of the finish to cover the
> wrap goes. What extra finish? And even if there is
> a little more finish, it isn't much. IMO it is
> overkill to worry about such a minuscule amount of
> weight.

I am working on a B-REVS72MH-2SB but I have not checked the balance before installing the guides.

Yes I see what you mean, the full Forhan from the article in the library is 7 wrap and as I am not familiar with how much It disturbs the balance I though I'd ask .

Tom Kirkman Wrote:
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> It is rare that fishing itself will ever pull out
> or shift a guide. It's pulling rods from rod
> lockers and boxes that tend to do that. Rich
> Forhan developed his unique locking wrap to stop
> that from happening, and it does. As far as adding
> weight - give it a hard look. You'd be hard
> pressed to realize any practical weight difference
> between using it or not. It's not bulkly, it's not
> long, it doesn't add enough additional thread to
> make any practical weight difference. There are no
> practical disadvantages to use it, but there may
> be some practical disadvantages in not using it.
>
>
>
> ..........

Yes It makes sense I was a bit too much focused on my tip heaviness i think, I saw the additional 7 wraps and I wondered if it would mess with my balance.
Thanks for the input I will do all the guides with the locking wrap!

Phil Erickson Wrote:
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> Actually Phil, the Forhan lock is more than one
> thread , it is two around the guide and more
> behind it.


Did it change since the article in the library?
There it states 7 threads, 1 before, 1 blocking, 3 locking and 2 blocking

Luc, is your rod tip heavy with a reel mounted on it or just the blank by itself? i would not be concerned with the balance of the blank only because with a reel this all changes..

The Forhan wrap won't disturb the balance. The amount we're talking is absolutely minuscule. It's simply not an issue in that regard.

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Tom Kirkman Wrote:
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> The Forhan wrap won't disturb the balance. The
> amount we're talking is absolutely minuscule. It's
> simply not an issue in that regard.
>
> ..........
I did it on all my guides. Just a question were talking about the 3 locking wrap or the full 7 from the library?

Luc, either way, the weight is simply not an issue. It's miniscule

If your rod is tip-heavy, the thread required to perform the Forhan wrap isn't the culprit. And if your rod is tip-heavy, so what?

..............

Actually you can do as many as you want. I normally do two blocking wraps behind the guide, then three locking wraps and finish off with two blocking wraps, all behind the guide. This is a grand total of 7, anything in front of the ring doesn’t count in my mind. However, I do vary the number from 1 blocking to 2 locking to 1 blocking, or 1 blocking, 3 locking and two blocking, that’s 4 and 6 wraps, respectively. Do what ever looks good to you. Some times an extra blocking wrap or two before the locking wraps will help to eliminate gaps that may form.
Norm

Norman, do you really think the blocking wraps do anything significant? I'm open to logical arguments, but it seems to me that the real improvement in guide stability comes from the wraps around the foot then the blank.

The blocking wraps allow for a nice smooth transition from front to back, and give a nice square finish to the overall wrap. Whether or nor they’re important for preventing pullout, probably not, but they do give the wrap a nice seamless finish.
Norm

If your rod is tip heavy, so what? Well ..... depending on the technique being used, a tip heavy rod can be painful to fish for extended periods.

Luc, I had to add 2 3/8oz to the butt of the rod I built on the Immortal blank that I spoke of earlier, to get the rod and reel to balance tip light in my hand. Depending on the technique being used, there is a HUGE difference between a tip light or neutrally balanced rod and reel, versus a tip heavy rod.

Yeah David, SMH.

Michael Danek Wrote:
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> Norman, do you really think the blocking wraps do
> anything significant?


Norman Miller Wrote:
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> Whether or nor
> they’re important for preventing pullout,
> probably not,

In complete agreement!

Michael Danek Wrote:
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> it seems to me that the real
> improvement in guide stability comes from the
> wraps around the foot then the blank.

In complete agreement again.

I think Micheal meant the locking wraps around the neck of the guides. Which I do agree with.
Norm

Tom Kirkman Wrote:
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> If your rod is tip-heavy, the thread required to
> perform the Forhan wrap isn't the culprit. And if
> your rod is tip-heavy, so what?
>
> ..............

Well not much; I'll probably compensate later on. I just did not know how much the locking wrap was useful on the first guides and how much it affected the weight. Ended up doing 2 locking wraps and increasing the lower I was going finishing the last two with the full 7 from the library article. I ll probably put some tungsten in the butt after I find out how much it bothers me while fishing.

I am especially interested on a balance rod from the sensibility point of view (from what I read). but yeah I also need to add 2 oz if want it to balance: I ll make a new butt and probably put some tungsten inside.

Luc, 2 oz is a lot of weight. Do it with a temporary arrangement, like tape, until you are absolutely sure you like it. I once added about that much to a casting rod and had it almost torque out of my hand when casting.

I'm not convinced that balance has anything to do with rod sensitivity, and in fact adding weight to achieve balance might detract from it. A better way to achieve balance is probably a lighter reel, or within reason, a different reel seat position. I don't worry about balance, I build as light as possible with the reel placed based on ergonomics, and I don't add any weight for any reason.


My previous comment/question clarification: I believe the wraps around the neck/foot of the guide, which continue around the blank, are the most important to guide stability and that the blocking wraps don't really add much if anything to stability.

I really don't see how the locking wraps add security to the guide. I've never had any trouble with single foot guides without using the locking wrap.

Bruce Tomaselli Wrote:
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> I really don't see how the locking wraps add
> security to the guide. I've never had any trouble
> with single foot guides without using the locking
> wrap.


Take a rod with single foot guides and no locking wrap and use a pair of pliers to jerk the guide straight out of the wrap by pulling towards the tip. This approximates what happens when a guy pulls a rod from a rod box or locker and hangs up on a guide on the way out. Now try the same with the Forhan locking wrap. You won't be successful in pulling the guide out.

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