First off not going to complain about NFC being slow to ship again. Now for my questions.

I have on order carbon fiber locking hood covers for Fuji KSKSS16. Has anyone gotten these in hand yet? I am curious as to the opening size. Most other locking hood covers are just that, a cover that goes over the hood and is same I.D. end to end. NFC pic shows the edge of their cover rolled over. Appears as though if might be more like a grip with a smaller I.D. on the one end. NFC specs the I.D. at 9.5mm, as they do with all their grips.

My immediate concern is what I may or may not need for a trim ring/ winding check. Getting ready to place a order soon and would like to figure out what I might have to order.

My other concern is how deep the cover is. Wondering if there is a concern with the hood bottoming out on the threads before being tight on the reel.

I ordered several of the carbon fiber KDPS hood sleeves and I’m awaiting their arrival. There are two types, one has the carbon fiber rolled around the front much like the CFX hood sleeves. The second appears to have an EVA cap at the front end. In both cases it appears that the front end will require reaming to fit the the blank. Should not be a problem, and no additional trim will be required. As far as bottoming out on the reel seat, that shouldn’t be a problem, since the KDPS hood is quite long and will fit most size 16 reel seat with no issues. If you are concerned about this then put the KDPS hood on the reel seat and see if any threads appear above the hood when completely tightened down. If the do then just trim the threads back until they are flush.
Norm

I am getting the covers for the SK2 hood, considerably shorter than the KDPS style hood.I figured on how to fix the issue if the hood bottoms out. Just wondering if I will need to. Going to order an extra seat in just case issues arise while cutting threads.

The SK2 hidden thread hoods are much shorter, and for most one piece reel seats it will bottom out, same is true for the TVS hidden thread hood. So screw the hood all the way down on the reel seat, and just just cut the excess threads off the reel seat. I use a fine toothed Exacto razor saw for doing this. I use the end of the hood itself as a guide for cutting the threads. Just take your time and rotate the reel seat as you cut. Once cut use a piece of sand paper on a flat surface to smooth up the cut, or use a sanding disk held 90 degrees to the reel seat. I’ve never had a problem doing this. Quite easy to do, so I don’t think you’ll need an extra reel seat, unless you want one for your next build.
Norm

Thanks for the advice. I am always a bit worried about cutting anything plastic like. Concerned about cracking. Sounds like it is a non issue with these seats.

The nylon in them make them soft enough not to break out unless you really try.