I'll do that then!

Joe Vanfossen Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Practical in this sense means that chasing a spec
> and using a material that is touted as the
> lightest and best would be an indulgence. Stopping
> and thinking about what materials are available
> and choosing the ones that are will do the job
> without breaking the bank is a practical choice. I
> would never deny a friend or family member an
> indulgence on a build, but I do explain what I
> would choose and why.
>
> As to the butt grip length 9” is what I use for
> rods from 6’6” to 7’6”.


I see! Was not sure because of the weight and the fact that I might move to Luleå which is a coastal city up north of Sweden. But I am very happy with my choices, thank's for the help I'll do a 9" then

Luc, I like your flexibility and willingness to take open and honest advice. Fishing and building fishing rods are endeavors where people can become stuck in their ways. I personally tend to prefer Y frame spinning guides than the higher frame models. The reasons have as much to do with aesthetics as they do my line choice, but this also falls into the same logic as choosing 5mm guides for a build like this over 4mm as it leaves more flexibility for more options in the future.

Grip length can be very personal. For me a 10" rear grip is a deal breaker. Fishing factory builds on the same model blank in casting and spinning configurations where the unlocking spinning seat pushed the reel forward an inch made the rod nearly unbearable to fish due to the butt constantly getting in the way. If you have rods with similar length and power, look them over and think about what you like and do not like about them. One of the important things to remember is that a custom rod is custom.

Don't be afraid to experiment a bit on the grip length. Just because a couple of us like that length doesn't mean that it's for everyone. Rods in this length class may have butt grips of 9"-12". The 9" length puts the handle at a length that I find comfortable when I'm fishing, as I can manipulate the rod without the butt of the rod getting in the way. A longer butt grip will balance a bit better than a shorter butt grip if that matters to you. Additionally, with larger lures that offer significant resistance coming through the water, some anglers will like to be able to tuck the handle between their elbow and ribs for better control and less fatigue. Given the size of pike that you are chasing, which I would interpret to be around 24"-36" pike based on my experience locally and in Canada, I don't suspect you will fall into the latter category. Chasing trophy class pike with larger lures generally takes a more powerful rod where a long butt grip may be better warranted.

Joe Vanfossen Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Luc, I like your flexibility and willingness to
> take open and honest advice. Fishing and building
> fishing rods are endeavors where people can become
> stuck in their ways.


Thank you Joe! I am afraid I don't deserve the praise as I had to change my plans to adapt to the shops stocks. The KB were only available in a different shop and in size 4 and the CC guides the KT was not in size 5 in my shop and the shipping costs made it as pricey as the titanium. I am a bit sad but in a way the titanium wil give the versatility to do some seawater which there is plenty in Stockholm. And I hope that my KT will hold with the lock. Not what I planned but rod building is not as popular here I am afraid.

I ll play with it a bit before gluing the grip bit from what you all told me 9" will be perfect for me. I have a stronger fishing rod (not custom) for the larger pikes and lures so no concern there.

Could you on-line order the guides from European rod building companies, such as Rod House in France, or Guides and Blanks in UK, or Tackle24.de in Germany? I’m sure there are others. They should be able to supply exactly what you want, or is postage that prohibitive in Europe?
Norm



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/08/2021 10:57AM by Norman Miller.

Tackle24 did not have the blank (14€ shipping extra), guide and blanks is subject to taxes since the brexit (20% plus carrier fees) and Rodhouse was much more expensive especially on shipping costs. All that extra money for two KB guides feels rough. I settled for Cmw-angeln.de

Luc, you need to do what you need to do and work with components that you can get your hands on for a fair price. We get spoiled over here in the US with so many vendors offering free or low cost shipping with low to no minimum orders. If it means working with smaller Ti framed guides and being forced to tie tight clean knots, then so be it.

With the lock wrap, I don't think you have much to worry about using KTs instead of KBs. Rod building involves compromise and trade offs at every step of the way, as everything we add to a blank takes away from its performance.

By the way, you taught me something along the way. I never thought 20lb fluorocarbon or mono would have been enough to eliminate pike bite offs. As quickly and cleanly as they cut through 8-12lb mono, I never bothered with looking at heavier mono as a solution. What I've done when I find pike in numbers is to use the lightest 6" steel leader I can find. It has gotten the job done for me, but I'm catching them most of the time in pretty dingy river water on top water lures.

Joe Vanfossen Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>
> With the lock wrap, I don't think you have much to
> worry about using KTs instead of KBs. Rod
> building involves compromise and trade offs at
> every step of the way, as everything we add to a
> blank takes away from its performance.
>
> By the way, you taught me something along the way.
> I never thought 20lb fluorocarbon or mono would
> have been enough to eliminate pike bite offs. As
> quickly and cleanly as they cut through 8-12lb
> mono, I never bothered with looking at heavier
> mono as a solution. What I've done when I find
> pike in numbers is to use the lightest 6" steel
> leader I can find. It has gotten the job done for
> me, but I'm catching them most of the time in
> pretty dingy river water on top water lures.

Yeah north Europa rod building is tough, I look at mudhole and I am like whaaat so much options.

Well I worked for me until now, glad it might work for you too!
The water is quite clear here in the lakes hence the fluoro leader.

Joe Vanfossen Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Luc, I like your flexibility and willingness to
> take open and honest advice. Fishing and building
> fishing rods are endeavors where people can become
> stuck in their ways. I personally tend to prefer
> Y frame spinning guides than the higher frame
> models. The reasons have as much to do with
> aesthetics as they do my line choice, but this
> also falls into the same logic as choosing 5mm
> guides for a build like this over 4mm as it leaves
> more flexibility for more options in the future.
>
> Grip length can be very personal. For me a 10"
> rear grip is a deal breaker. Fishing factory
> builds on the same model blank in casting and
> spinning configurations where the unlocking
> spinning seat pushed the reel forward an inch made
> the rod nearly unbearable to fish due to the butt
> constantly getting in the way. If you have rods
> with similar length and power, look them over and
> think about what you like and do not like about
> them. One of the important things to remember is
> that a custom rod is custom.
>
> Don't be afraid to experiment a bit on the grip
> length. Just because a couple of us like that
> length doesn't mean that it's for everyone. Rods
> in this length class may have butt grips of
> 9"-12". The 9" length puts the handle at a length
> that I find comfortable when I'm fishing, as I can
> manipulate the rod without the butt of the rod
> getting in the way. A longer butt grip will
> balance a bit better than a shorter butt grip if
> that matters to you. Additionally, with larger
> lures that offer significant resistance coming
> through the water, some anglers will like to be
> able to tuck the handle between their elbow and
> ribs for better control and less fatigue. Given
> the size of pike that you are chasing, which I
> would interpret to be around 24"-36" pike based on
> my experience locally and in Canada, I don't
> suspect you will fall into the latter category.
> Chasing trophy class pike with larger lures
> generally takes a more powerful rod where a long
> butt grip may be better warranted.

Hey Joe,

I am currently in the process of building the rod. I just wanted to double check. When you mention 9" do you measure the length from the butt of the blank to the beginning of the reel seat?
I just fitted everything and it feels tip heavy (with taped guides), I am wondering if maybe i did something wrong when measuring the butt-rear grip length

Thanks,

Luc

Butt end of the blank to the butt end of the reel seat.
Norm

As I thought, thank you!
I am left with a tip heavy rod, sadness. It takes 3oz to balance it which is almost not worth it..