Hej hej,

After 16 hours of research mostly on this forum, I almost feel like I know you all haha. Here I present you my rod build. I hope you can help me to see if everything make sense.

AIM: Mostly pike (small to medium) and large perchs
Blank: REVS72MH-2SB from Rainshadow 5/8-3/4 lure weight 7.2ft 2.6oz
Reel: Shimano curado K
Reel seat: Fuji sk2 kskts 17
Handle: cork rings
Fighting butt: forecast CCFB-1
Thread: size A
Guides : 8+1
- 1T-KWSG size 6
- 2 T-KBAG size 4 (could not find KBSG delivering to Sweden)
- 5 T-KTSG size 4
- 1 T-KTSG TIPTOP size 4
Hoped to have only one footed guides but could not find big enough sizes on my websites.
I was also pondering on using Eva to reduce weight.

Please share your thoughts !

Looks like a pretty good plan to me.

One thing I would do is to order one or two more T-KTSG 4mm guides. I find that when I drop down to 4mm runners and below that I typically need the length in feet + guides. In this case that would be 9. People who are fussy about not letting the line touch the blank at all may use 10 - 12 guides.

If the goal is to save weight, don't order EVA. It is more dense than cork. That said, I use EVA regularly in my builds. I find that when I get to lures that I would fish on a blank with the power you are working on, I generally do not have an issue maintaining contact and feel with them in most instances, so EVA grips are fine. It's with my rods that get used with the lightest lures that I fuss more over grip weights.

One other thing, if you are fussy, the alconite and SiC inserts will look slightly different. I would use all alconites or just not use the belly guides and use all KTSG guides. If you use a Forhan locking wrap on the guides, make sure the guide foot tunnels are full of epoxy, those guides aren't likely to go anywhere anytime soon. I've only had guides pull out in a couple of circumstances where I was testing to see what the limits really are. One case I wrapped and finished the guides and intentionally did not fill the tunnels next to the guide feet. After a year or so, I had guides start pulling out. The other was the butt guide on an all micro build that was finished with only CP. That guide stayed in place for several years before it wanted to pull out.

Is there a requirement to pass knots in your plans for this rod, like using braid with a leader? If yes, and the leader will exceed about 15 pound test, you might want to consider 5.5 running guides to clear the knots a little better. I use 4's on my spin outfits with 15 braid and 15 leaders and knots clear OK with FG and Albertos, but not with double uni knots. I see no significant advantage on a MH casting rod of going as small as 4's. 5.5 KT's are pretty light and pretty small.

I would use the RV 6 as the first guide, or a KW 10 to make it a little higher.

Joe Vanfossen Wrote:
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Oh thanks for the input I'll then take off the KB guide, Wanted to do it but could not find anyone doing without them in forums. But if you do that is all I need!
I'll also grab 2 extras KT.

I like cork a lot more so that is good news, any reason you would chose EVA except price and wear resistance ?

Thanks again!

Michael Danek Wrote:
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> Is there a requirement to pass knots in your plans
> for this rod, like using braid with a leader?

Not really I currently have a 20 fluroleader on (from my old mojo bass rod setup) with an alberto mostly for pike teeths but could go lower it or shorten it so it stays out of my guides. Apart from the knot is there a reason to use 5.5 over 4?


> I would use the RV 6 as the first guide, or a KW
> 10 to make it a little higher.

Indeed I was not sure about the first guide height, any preference between the RV6 and the KW10?

One extra question. It seems that my rod tip is a 5.5 so there is no way I can fit a T-KTSG TIPTOP size 4 on that or is there something I am missing? One can't chose his tip top ring diameter?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/04/2021 02:23PM by Luc siat.

When Using titanium guides, I would use RV6 (or KW10), KB5.5 (or KW5.5), (2 ea) KB4 (or KB4.5), followed by KT4 (or KT4.5) runners, as many as needed. The tip top would be KG 4.5 ring /5.5 tube. On a medium heavy rod I would certainly use a double foot stripper guide and KB guides in the butt section of the rod. The RV6 or KW10 give you an optimum height off the blank for good casting performance. For your rod I would use 9 to 10 guides total plus the tip top. If you can’t get all the guides available with the regular titanium frame, check on the new black titanium (T2) frames with the slim SIC rings. They look great. If you can’t get a complete set of either of the titanium guides, try the CC gunmetal sic guides, with a matching LG tip top. Titanium guides in fresh water are a little overkill, and the corrosion control frames work extremely well. Just my thoughts.
Norm

A 20 flouro leader with a double uni will not pass cleanly through size 4 guides, IMO. If you really want to use 20, you HAVE to master the FG knot or use 5.5 guides. As you asked, "apart from the knot. . . " my answer is no. But you are limiting the versatility of the rod by using guides that small. Use 5.5's and you can do almost anything with the rod. With a medium-heavy power rod do you really think that size 4's has an advantage over 5.5's? If yes, then tell me about it, as I don't see it. I consider the advantage of versatility in where you may go in the future with that rod much more important than an almost unmeasureable difference in mass.

I mostly use size 5 or 4.5 runners, rarely use size 4, except with very light braid. I agree with Michael, size 4 runners are on the small side if you are planning on passing a leader knot using 20lb fluorocarbon. I also agree that you should master the FG knot. It’s the strongest and thinnest knot around, with no tag end on the front of the knot to catch a guide during the cast.
Norm

Norman Miller Wrote:
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> When Using titanium guides, I would use RV6 (or
> KW10), KB5.5 (or KW5.5), (2 ea) KB4 (or KB4.5),
> followed by KT4 (or KT4.5) runners, as many as
> needed. The tip top would be KG 4.5 ring /5.5
> tube. On a medium heavy rod I would certainly use
> a double foot stripper guide and KB guides in the
> butt section of the rod. The RV6 or KW10 give you
> an optimum height off the blank for good casting
> performance. For your rod I would use 9 to 10
> guides total plus the tip top. If you can’t get
> all the guides available with the regular titanium
> frame, check on the new black titanium (T2) frames
> with the slim SIC rings. They look great. If you
> can’t get a complete set of either of the
> titanium guides, try the CC gunmetal sic guides,
> with a matching LG tip top. Titanium guides in
> fresh water are a little overkill, and the
> corrosion control frames work extremely well. Just
> my thoughts.
> Norm

First of all thank you for the really appreciated input

I see what you mean, the titanium frame was for the 45% reduction in weight but again I am probably overkill as I searched on my own and do not have knowledge on how much it will impact my fishing experience.
I'll switch to CC gunmetal then.

Regarding the KB it is just that they are available on a different website which would cost me 12$ to ship but if you think that's necessary instead of one KW and locked wrap KT I don't mind paying extra.

Michael Danek Wrote:
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> A 20 flouro leader with a double uni will not pass
"" ""
> advantage over 5.5's? If yes, then tell me about
> it, as I don't see it. I consider the advantage
> of versatility in where you may go in the future
> with that rod much more important than an almost
> unmeasureable difference in mass.

Not at all tbh all my rodbuilding knowledge is based one the one you all shared here.
Regarding the fluoro I am not bonded to a #20 nor the alberto, I have used the FG knot before though I did know the advantages of it. What you say make sense, I will switch to 5.

So If I recap all your inputs the guide would be CC gunmetal SiC Fuji
1 KW -10
2 KB -5.5
7 KT -5
1 KT tip -5

Will work fine, but no need for two sizes of runners. All can be the same size, whichever you want. Glad to see you're keeping the KB's, and I think I saw that you are planning to do the Forhan lock wrap on the single foot guides? good idea, easy, nothing to lose, significant improvement over not using it.

Looks good. Place the KW10 about 20” (50 cm) in front of the reel, and the first runner about 9 to 10 cm behind the tip top. Then progressively position all of the other guides between these two, and statistic and test cast to fine tune. You should wind up with a great performing rod. Good luck.
Norm

Luc, looks like you are settling in on a nice plan. The move to steel frames is a very practical choice and saves a good chunk of money.

The 5mm guides make passing knots much easier, especially when using knots that double over the leader. With 4s and smaller, you need an FG knot that is tied and trimmed well.

I use EVA if I want to add some color in the handle of the rod. It's an easy material to work with and I can turn it fairly quickly on my drill lathe using limited tools. Working with cork just takes a bit more effort on my part, so I usually work with either EVA or urethane foam core and sleeve it with carbon fiber. Cork is great, but is continually getting pricier, and the foam core grips can come in lighter than cork when the right foam density is used in the core.

Michael Danek Wrote:
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> Will work fine, but no need for two sizes of
> runners. All can be the same size, whichever you
> want. Glad to see you're keeping the KB's, and I
> think I saw that you are planning to do the Forhan
> lock wrap on the single foot guides? good idea,
> easy, nothing to lose, significant improvement
> over not using it.

One size it will be then! The main problem with KB was the extra cost of shipping as the north european shops are not as well stocked as mudhole and 14$ to get KB is a bit tough.
Yes the Fohran lock seems to be a no brainer from what I read!

Norman Miller Wrote:
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> Looks good. Place the KW10 about 20” (50 cm) in
> front of the reel, and the first runner about 9 to
> 10 cm behind the tip top. Then progressively
> position all of the other guides between these
> two, and statistic and test cast to fine tune. You
> should wind up with a great performing rod. Good
> luck.
> Norm


Thank you for the advice I will do that! any advice on reel seat placement? read 9 inches from the rod butt.

Joe Vanfossen Wrote:
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They do save a lot of money indeed, what do you mean by practical choice?

Cork it will be then, only one rod and no intention to put colours on it.

For my 7’ 3” casting rods a 9” handle fits me very well.
Norm

Practical in this sense means that chasing a spec and using a material that is touted as the lightest and best would be an indulgence. Stopping and thinking about what materials are available and choosing the ones that are will do the job without breaking the bank is a practical choice. I would never deny a friend or family member an indulgence on a build, but I do explain what I would choose and why.

As to the butt grip length 9” is what I use for rods from 6’6” to 7’6”.

Well thank you to everyone, I have done the order and am looking forward to making the rod. I am planning on doing an helix transitional wrap on the guides and an olive branch wrap on the ferrule
Wish me luck!