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RoyB
South of Boston

Nice job! Well done!

Hey Roy, wanna come to Florida and hang out in my garage for a couple of months? Warmer ya know. Some times I wonder why bother, I can't do any of that!!! Congrats to you!!

Roy,
Fabricating fishing rods is very rewarding; fabricating things to fabricate those rods enhances the experience! Good Job!

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Awesome. A little competition for Roger.LOL

I'd love to come to Florida....But I'd be out fishing so much, nothing would get built!

Thanks for all the kind words!

RoyB
South of Boston

Roy,
Very nice job.
I agree with your comment about the right angle drive motors with respect to noise. Reliable, long lasting - but somewhat on the noisy side.

Nice jobs on your metal fabrication and overall design.

With respect to your rod stands and the comment about adding springs. Yes, you could do that, but for myself, I would rather just have a solid lock on the upper wheel and not deal with springs.
Just put a wing nut on the attaching bolt for the upper wheel and you will be set. When you use the system, loosen the wing nut, lift the arm, drop in the rod , lower the wheel, and turn the wing nut. The rod will be contained and with the correct adjustment of the locking arm and wing nut, the wheel will put minimum but adequate pressure on the rod. But, the nice thing about no spring, is that if you just set the wing nut so that you can lift and lower the arm with a bit of pressure - you will not have to have a 4th hand to hold a spring loaded arm up - when loading or unloading a rod into your power wrapper system.

Also, if you decide to use your large heavy duty 3000 rpm motor to act as a lathe motor and raise the speed of the rod blank - or potentially a handle mandrel, the solid lock down of your rod rests will allow you to raise the speed of the motor to 3000 rpm for excellent grip shaping.

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In past years I had a full length rod lathe and I had equipped it with a 3600 rpm 110v ac buffer motor. The trick in using this system was to have the rod rests in exactly the correct place to avoid destroying the rod. i.e. I would start at the butt of the rod, and set the first rod rest 1 inch in front of the grip that I was going to shape on the full length rod that I had glued on the cork and reel seat in preparation for grip shaping. Then, I would bump the on and off switch while also running my hand down the rod - checking for null points of the rod which are points of virtually no rod blank shaking I would then place my 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th rod rests in these null points. Then, I would bump the on and off switch for a few seconds to check the operation of the spinning rod to be sure that the rod was not going into destructive oscillation. Assuming that all was well, I would flip the on switch on the motor and lathe for as long as needed with the rod spinning at 3600 rpm.
I had learned on a full length rod lathe that was driving with a motor that had a 1750 rpm motor driving it, but I always thought that my lathe work was taking too long when the grip was turning at 1700 rpm. Hence my building a 3600 rpm rod lathe setup.

These days, when I do my grip shaping on my wood lathe, I always use the highest speed on the lathe which is 3200 rpm chuck speed. Again, I would rather use smoother grit paper held with a light touch on a fast spinning object - rather than using coarse grit sand paper and a heavy hand on a slow turning object to turn the object.

Nice job. Keep it up.

Great job! I assume the AC - DC converter and speed controller came with the motor? I have been considering an old treadmill motor. I have one that's 90V 1/3HP but no power supply or speed controller. I have thought about building the power supply and controller, but just don't have the time.

Also, on your wrapper, what type of aluminum did you use for the rod supports and how did you bend it? Thanks.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/09/2021 06:33PM by John Wright.